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I used the K&N kit and Simple Green to clean my filters, sprayed it from the back with water, let it dry in the sun.

Try a 15 mm socket.

How do you like the quality of OE Wheels? I'm thinking of getting the gunmetal Cobra R wheels. The only other place I found that sells them is Cruzin Concepts and I never read anything good about their customer service.

This is the sticker I have on my quarter window: http://www.ihatestickers.com/motorsports-other-c-2_10/fuck-your-prius-p-894 Got it after getting the finger from 2 fucktard Prius drivers in one week.

Do you have a small mirror you can use to see into the hole? Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/SE-8014TM-Handle-27-Inch-Extension/dp/B001HBY8YK/ref=pd_sim_sbs_ac_2

You should be able to find those at a truck stop that sells lots of chrome goodies.

I've had chunks of glowing carbon coming out of the stack on a few diesels after they been under a heavy load for a while.

Someone else posted this info on here and I wrote it down. 100 ft/lbs with molly lube 115 ft/lbs with loctite 125 ft/lbs with 30wt oil

I bookmarked this site a while ago that someone posted a link to, might have the pins your looking for cheaper: http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Push_Type_Retainers_At_Clipsandfasteners_com_s/154.htm

Yes, you want the weight of the car on the suspension not the body.

I have an alloy metallic Mustang and bought a painted CDC chin for it. It's now chipping and flaking off from things hitting it. I now wish I got an unpainted one. I don't know how good the prep work was before it was painted, could be part of the problem.

Here you go : http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HUU-1140015/

Looked at the pics and remembered this thread from not too far back: http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=45429&highlight=high+speed+fan

If your a member of the Craftsman Tool Club they are having a sale from Nov. 7-13 on compressors among other things. There are 3 oil lubed models with tank sizes of 20 to 27 gallons for $430 to $450. Also a bunch of the oiless comprossors on sale also. This is the one I bought a year ago...

Stuntman Mike lives!! Thats his new car.

Here is a link to the thread RRRoamer is talking about: http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28571

It sounds like the shifter bolt that goes to the side of the transmission is loose/backing out. Had the same problem and found that bolt loose. The 2009's have the sound deadening in the trans. tunnel that makes getting that bolt in and out a bitch. I used threadlocker when installing the Hurst...

MrClean, I also have the FRPP Handling Pack. I have no squeaks from the rear sway bar bushings. I will change the front ball joints when they are worn out. I installed and welded rear lower arm relocation brackets, Steeda lower control arms and adj. upper control arm.

Whats the date for the races at Atco? This is going to be good.

A 3/8 and 1/2 drive torque wrenches, good for any vehicle. Ratchet wrenches are the shit - love'em. Get the basic tools first to build your collection then get the speciality tools to make your life easier. +1 to everyone who said more mod $.

A plasma cutter would work if you know someone that has one. Don't know if tin snips for sheet metal work would cut stainless that thick.

Yes there is a mat in the trans tunnel under the car, makes removing the shifter to transmission bolt a pain in the ass. Sorry can't help you with a part #, I have a 2009 by the way.

On a previous car I installed a transmission drain plug kit and used the temp. sender as the plug. Got the kit from Summit Racing and it was made by B&M. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMM-80250/

Yes, the holes in the rotor are larger than the wheel studs. After you put the wheel on and tighten the lug nuts that play won't be there anymore. As for the clunk noise have a helper outside the car to listen for the noise to see if it's coming from the front or back, help pinpoint the source.

Remember seeing this in the DIY Tech. Forum. http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18909