Are you saying your car is tuned for running catalytic converters and you removed them without altering the tune? I would say that is the rout of your problem. Regardless of the codes registered, adjustments to the vehicles tune would be required to omit the Cats.
Adjusted the air pressure in the tires and checked the fluids under the hood. Topped it off with fresh fuel and went for a short warmup ride. Jumped on it a couple times. It made me smile.
I’m sorry to inform you that the clutch “judder” that you feel in your foot when letting out the clutch peddle is a sure sigh the flywheel should have been resurfaced or replaced.
The stock damper from my 2010 GT is roughly 6 3/4” where the belt rides and I replaced it with an ATI 6.78 damper. It will take the same belt your using now. The 7.5” measurement is the heavy part of the damper in front of the belt.
Front wheels pointed towards center is positive toe and is most common for hiway vehicles. Offers stability at speed. Negative toe”pointed out” can be twitchy at speed and scary.
Your alignment numbers look very good to me for a stock suspension. The chassis appears straight, not warped or twisted. In factory form the only adjustment available is the front toe and I would not add more. How does the car accelerate on flat, level ground? Nice and straight I bet. Upset the...
You have 200,000 miles on the clock so a timing set replacement is a very good idea. Remove the front cover and replace the crank gear, timing chains, tensioners and guides and phasers. Use only Ford parts here. Timing the cams with the front cover off is very easy.