So this is what I did to remove the A/C. This is not a complete write up by any means, and I am assuming that the normal stuff doesn't need to be covered (like how to removed the front bumper cover).
OK, so first I like to have alot of room when I work, so I took off the front bumper cover, the front wheels, and the front wheel well splash guards / covers.
Then I took off the belt, and first step I took was to release the pressure in the a/c system by removing the cap shown below, and letting the pressure out SLOWLY over about 5 minutes. There is also another one on the passenger side by the fuse box.
Then it was the front (condenser? radiator?) for the A/C. There was the typical four bolts that held it in place, and two spots where you have to remove the lines. On passenger side its at the bottom, on the drivers side it is on the top:
Passenger side bottom:
Drivers side top:
So far very easy and the front a/c condsenor/radiator came right out. I think there will be some benefits to this, as the air for the engine coolant radiator and the trans cooler will be alot less impeded. Better cooling? We will see.
Before removal:
After removal:
Now the A/C compressor. Three studs that hold it on, no problem there. But look for the bolt on top to take off the lines to the compressor. See below:
Now would be a good time to check that header bolt that is next to impossible to get to while the a/c is in place. That is another good result from doing this. So much more room to work in the engine bay.
So far very easy for sure. But now comes the hard part---that is if you want to keep the lines in good condition and reuseable. If you don't care, then remove the lines and your done. Easy peasy.
But, what if you want the lines in good condition so you can re install someday? Well, you will need these:
Because there a few places where you can disconnect the lines, similar to how you disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail, using the above pictured clips. I used the 5/8, 3/4, and 7/8.
So, disconnect the lines from the "thingy" that is on the driver rear, and remove that cylinder like object. Sorry, I have no idea what it is...perhaps the tank to hold the freon? There is also another one you can disconnect, on the passenger side between the shock tower and the firewall.
Now the fun part--these lines run to a aluminum block on the firewall. Problem is I have this thing called a whipple and a custom sheetmetal intake manifold saying I can't get to it....
Now, keep in mind I have a lift off hood, so that is not in my way. Also, my battery is in the trunk, so I have plenty of room to work in the area on the passenger side between the shock tower and firewall (the stock battery location). Take a 10mm wrench, and you can do it without removing anything, as long as you have patience.
So I took the two nuts off holding it, and there are two long studs, so you have to pull the block forward quite a bit to remove it. But your not done, because as I started to remove the line, it stopped. There is a plug you also have to unplug before you can remove the line.
I would have to say this job was pretty easy. The only thing that makes it time consuming is you do have to have patience if you want to remove the lines without f'ning them up. Below are all of the parts in their glory. I kept the lines in good shape, but the condenser has been thrashed for a long time when I ran over a dog a couple years ago. Poor thing never had a chance.
Also, since I was there anyway, I thought it was a good time to replace the front crossmember with the lightweight BMR unit. I had previously removed the sway bar a long time ago, but not the heavy crossmember.
SO, the verdict is:
1) Pretty easy to do, but keeping the lines in useable condition for re install someday will require time and patience.
2) I like the added room in the engine compartment, now that all of the lines and compressor is gone.
3) Possible cooling benefit, now that the condenser is gone that was in front of the radiator and trans cooler.
Hardest part:
Getting to that firewall mount. And remember, my hood was off and my battery is in the trunk, so I had it easier then most.
Getting the lines disconnected from the "tank" that is on the drivers side rear in the engine bay. I used the clips, but they were really tight.
Other considerations: you may need a different length belt.
