Drive by "electric" wire response

07 Boss

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Ok guys, I'll show you what I did and why. When you would depress my gas pedal there was about 1/4" of movement before anything happened. This was with whatever tune I had in there. I'm convinced that there was some slop in my pedal before the computer actually began to recognize movement. Again this was not tune related, but with the electronics recognizing the physical movement of the pedal. So I just put a couple pieces of tape between the pedal arm where it would prevent the pedal from returning all the way up. You can see in the first pic where the pedal is down, the indentation of the tape where it acts like a stop against the pedal housing. The second pic is with the pedal in the up or off throttle position. You can see where the tape prevents the arm from going all the way back up. I first put only one piece but I felt like there was still some play in the pedal. The second piece seemed to do the trick though. I think I'm going to replace the tape with something a little firmer/durable than the tape. I might try some lead tape I use to weight my golf clubs. I just used it at first to see if this would actually work. The idle was never effected by this. And now you can see the rpms wiggle at the slightest touch of the pedal. Before you could literally push the pedal in about 1/4" to 1/2" and let it go and never see the engine stir. Now it's an instantaneous response to the slightest blip. Almost feels like a cable is attached.

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For you guys that feel you have some slop or play in your pedal before things start to happen, give this 2 minute mod a chance. I'm sure you will be pleased. If it does nothing it's not like your stuck with it, just yank the tape off.
 

Timbostang

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Ther is not a TSB in regard to this, Ford sets up the dal to be "soft" so it makes the car easier to drive, and to reduce NVH.
Making the pedal more responsive gives the car the feel of more power and quicker throttle response, that is the feel of improvement most get in a canned tune.

Adding a MAFia to a car (if the tune is scaled) like diablo reccomends, makes the throttle really bad. But any good tuner can make it right if they know not to follow the directions included in the MAF.ia.

I guess this explains why my throttle response sucks.
 

Timbostang

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I am going to elaborate a bit...
Basically, the ECM looks at pedal position and engine rpm then looks to a look up table to find the amount of torque requested. The computer then calculates the amount of airflow required by throttle angle to create "x" amount of torque. It then opens the throttle enought to allow the proper airflow to create the requested torque.
When the throttle body is changed to a larger aftermarket unit with no changes to the tune, the engine creates a bit more torque per throttle angle than originally requested.
It also will look to the signal from the MAF to check the actual airflow amount, remember air flow is torque. The MAF is the key ingredient in any tune. The signal needs to be smooth and repeatable.

There is a margin of error in the programming also known as wheel torque error, now if we exceed this error amount the notorious "wrench" light will come on.


So the nuts and bolts of this is simple, A tuner can go into the tune and raise the requested torque by the driver, this would make the throttle more responsive.
It can actually be made too responsive, where the throttle has a hair trigger and quickly cracks from part to full throttle.

The balance is difficult to achieve and is really dictated but the actual engine combo.


Hope this helps....

My canned tune from Turbonetics was way too responsive. I couldn't hardly take off without squealing the tires or jerking like I'd never driven a stick.
 

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