2006 GT with a hesitation

TheGing

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Ford alternators have a two year warranty, most aftermarket brands are generally 3 months to a year. Ford has a new line called Omnicraft to compete with these cheaper product lines, but I can assure you its complete Omnicrap. I personally would buck up for a Power Master but I couldn't afford it at the time. If you do change you alternator let us know your results, good luck man.
 

rickf

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I have recently been talking to a friend of mine that I have not talked to in 30 plus years. It is ironic that he has gotten into Mustangs and has built some really fast pro street cars. he also had his own shop until recently moving and now is setting up a new place. Unfortunately he is in Alabama and I am in NJ. He told me he has also seen a lot of problems with aftermarket alarms causing this problem, and I have a Viper alarm on this car. He said the first thing he does when one comes in his shop is rip out the aftermarket alarm because they are no better than the stock alarm and for the most part use the stock system for all the triggers. My problem is that this car did not come with the original Ford alarm fobs.

Bingo, I just called a lock shop I did a lot of business when I was a locksmith with the college I worked for and they can not only supply and program remotes for me but he knows a guy that can remove the alarm the right way and solder any cut wires. No crimp connector used. And the price is well worth me not hurting my bad back doing it myself!!!
 
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rickf

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I went out the other day and hit the alarm and I noticed that the cats eyes on the drivers side lights did not work. Turned on the parking and fog lights and no fogs and no left cats eyes or parking light. (cats eye are tied into parking light) Right away I am thinking I never pulled that SJB to look at the back of it. Well I ran my errands and got home and checked the lights and everything works. Guess that means I am buying a new SJB. I doubt that is going to solve the issues with the engine but we will see.
 

deebo05

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if you go back to your first post, you basically found the issue, you said there was knock activity when hesitation occurred. so time to figure out why is the knock sensor going off.

that is where i would look.
 

rickf

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This is true but that knock activity can be triggered by many different things from timing to lean condition in one injector to a loose lash adjuster or cam follower. Where to start? I plan to get it in the garage and pull the valve covers and possibly the front cover to look over the entire valve train if for no other reason then to eliminate any possibilities. I already have new lash adjusters and cam followers to put in just due to mileage.
 

rickf

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And you all thought I was just going to let this die like all the other threads on this subject huh? Ain't happening! I am STILL working on it. I just replaced the SJB with a brand new one, not used. I was told these need to be programmed and I had planned to have it done when I took the car in for the air bag but I do not see anything that does not work as it did before. Is there something that I am missing here? I do not want to just hand the dealer 185.00 for nothing!!!

Have any of you ever replaced a MAF sensor with a Stock Ford replacement and found it to be bad? This car shows all the symptoms of a bad MAF sensor but I do not really know what I should be looking at on a data graph of the MAF pattern. It does jump all over the place all the time. If I find that it turns out that the very first part I replaced was a bad part and I have put over a grand in it since I am going to go ballistic!!!!
 

46addict

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Not sure where he could buy an alternator that will take a return. I've never seen any electrical part that you can return.

Ford alternators have a two year warranty, most aftermarket brands are generally 3 months to a year. Ford has a new line called Omnicraft to compete with these cheaper product lines, but I can assure you its complete Omnicrap. I personally would buck up for a Power Master but I couldn't afford it at the time. If you do change you alternator let us know your results, good luck man.

I've bought a TYC alternator for a different car through Rockauto which failed after a year and 13k miles. Luckily it came with a lifetime warranty and Rockauto took it back. They also refunded the shipping cost. A+ customer service. Don't mean to veer the thread off course but I wanted to throw that out there.
 

46addict

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I went out the other day and hit the alarm and I noticed that the cats eyes on the drivers side lights did not work. Turned on the parking and fog lights and no fogs and no left cats eyes or parking light. (cats eye are tied into parking light) Right away I am thinking I never pulled that SJB to look at the back of it. Well I ran my errands and got home and checked the lights and everything works. Guess that means I am buying a new SJB. I doubt that is going to solve the issues with the engine but we will see.
What do you mean by cats eyes?

Have any of you ever replaced a MAF sensor with a Stock Ford replacement and found it to be bad? This car shows all the symptoms of a bad MAF sensor but I do not really know what I should be looking at on a data graph of the MAF pattern. It does jump all over the place all the time.
Your first post mentions replacing the MAF sensor based on what it showed on the datalogs. What did you see then versus what you see now?
 

rickf

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Cats eyes are the LED light rings around the headlights and driving lights.
What I saw on the data way back then was that the baro pressure would never change and the outside temp was off by 20 degrees. That was all fixed with the new sensor.
I just went out and disconnected the MAF and went for a ride and no hesitation of dropouts at all but it sure was flat with the Brenspeed program installed. I did another datalog looking mostly at load, MAF and cam angles. The cams are almost in the retarded range at WOT which seems a bit strange to me. I though the whole idea behind the variable cam was to be able to advance it at higher rpms? They are advancing and retarding, they go all the way up to 46 degrees I think I saw but they are not there at full throttle. I am not pushing it to the redline but I am at around 5,000-5,500 when I shift.

The replacement SJB made no difference at all, Just another wasted 300.00!
 

deebo05

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the 3v will only retard the cams.

post a log with cam angle actual and commanded, ltft, stft,maf volts, pressure drop across injectors, knock retard, spark.

maybe the data will tell something
 

rickf

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I'll see what I can do, do I just attach the file here?
 

rickf

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Tried to upload the datalog files from my computer and it tells me they are "Invalid files".
They are .csv files from my SCT and Livelink.

You will have to tell me how to get the file on here.
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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Cats eyes are the LED light rings around the headlights and driving lights.

They're actually called angel eyes.

20120506225554_6351.jpg


The cams are almost in the retarded range at WOT which seems a bit strange to me. I though the whole idea behind the variable cam was to be able to advance it at higher rpms?

The stock VCT retards the cam timing from 3750rpm upwards.
 
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rickf

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I knew something did not sound right! I was also working on my RV with the tire management system and that is called Cats Eye so there is the confusion. Thanks for calling me out on that.:whistle1:
Now that I think about it retarding the cams at higher rpm makes sense. I am an old guy and still think old school so you have to excuse me in that respect. I am a retired master tech but I retired in 2002 when these motors were in their infancy and at that time I was in charge of a truck fleet so I did not get to work on them. I understand all of the OBDII theories and procedures but some of the nuances of the Mustang are tripping me up. And it aggravates the hell out of me that I am looking at data logs and I "should" be able to spot the problem but I am not seeing it. I am sure it is there for someone who is up on these to see but I don't see it.
 

thump_rrr

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Possible front O2 sensor issue except that you say the STFT's are good.
Mine thought that it was going lean so it was actually dumping fuel into the engine.
Fortunately I don't have any cats for it to destroy.
 

deebo05

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looks like thump called it.....the log showing bank 1 is kind of flat bank 2 is switching fast

thats really all i can see thats odd.
 
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rickf

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I'll definitely take another look at it. When I am looking at it in real time they both appear to be switching the same. If you said bank two was bad I would be inclined to believe it since my converter went out on that side.
Unfortunately on the logs I sent you I did not catch any heavy stumbles or dropouts. It always seem to happen when I am not logging. Being a lifetime mechanic I know how that is, the customer would bring the car in and it would never act up in my presence. With 96,000 on it I may just replace both upstream O2 sensors. Hell, I have replaced everything else.:disgust:

In the meantime I will keep on running logs and hope I can catch the problem on one of them. Thanks for taking the time to check it out.
 

rickf

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I looked at a couple of the logs and found that the bank 1 O2 sensor had several 39 volt spikes. In the 070817datalog2 file they are at the #3, #610 and #762 marks.
Any ideas what would cause those spikes? I don't think that is causing my problem because I do not see any reaction to the rest of the data at the time of the spike but if it is RF from somewhere that may be an issue.
 

rickf

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Well, If there is one thing I cannot stand it is a thread with no solution. Here is a sort of a solution since the car is now running pretty good. It had thrown a code for a non functioning converter on bank 2. I was not all that worried about it since I did not have any symptoms of a plugged converter and the code was simply a monitor. Something I would need to address before inspection time. Well, that time has arrive so I bought a Magnaflow Direct fit ( YEA RIGHT!) converter set and replaced all four O2 sensors. I wrote up a thread on that since the drivers side sensor is a bit of a challenge to get to to say the least. Well, after putting it all back together it no longer throws the code although the drivers side downstream O2 sensor shows .04 volts most of the time except for full throttle and then it jumps to 750 where it belongs. The main thing is that the hesitation was there for a while at first even though I cleared the KAM but it went away after about 100 miles. It is running great now but I am worried about the low downstream reading on the one sensor. Is it a bad cat or is it something in the way it is running?
The original cats that came off were good on the bank one side and melted on the second stage on the bank 2 side so I may have had some restriction. That may have been causing the hesitation. Or it may have been lazy O2 sensors with 95K on them. It was one of those two things since that was all that was changed to make the difference. I hope this helps someone out down the road because in a 9 month period of internet searching I NEVER found a solution to this problem in any of the threads that addressed it. They were all left open.

Anyone have any suggestions on te low O2 voltage on Ban2-2? 2-1 is reading perfect as are the fuel trims.

And yes, The spikes are still there.
 

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