The $100 question.

SladeDean

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I will honestly send $100 to the first person who helps diagnose and give the correct answer to this issue. My 05' Auto GT was put in the shop 5 months ago for a lower mileage motor. I went with a set of thumper cams with phase limiters, frpp intake manifold, C&L intake/GT500 TB/ car has a TCI stall. So after the install I put in a BAMA tune. Living in the country here in TX means trailering a long distance to a city with a dyno. The car would run for 30 minutes then after you shut off it will it wouldn't crank. The shop hooked up a computer and the radiator fan had started messing mostly due to some hackjob wiring from previous owner. After a new fan and wiring the car will run now, however at initial start up at hot or cold it will start and RPM's will stagger but usually catch itself. But as soon as you turn on A/C during idle it falls on it face and stalls out. Same with going into reverse. Looks real bad when you try to leave a meet and it looks like somebody who can't drive a standard. I've checked the stall, it kicks in at 2500 like it should. Replaced 02's upfront, backs have a set number with tune. No cats. Can't find ANY vac leaks. Gone through 2 GT500 TB's thinking maybe AIC or TPS could be bad. Honestly at a lack of words at this point. Had a shop do a pressure check on fuel the other day. It checked out. So yes I'll throw $100 to whoever can solve this headache. I'm out of ideals.
Thanks Slade,
 

007GTCS

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Does it currently have a Bama tune? Can you datalog the car? Honestly my assumption would be the Bama tune. Sound like the tune is not setup correctly for the cams and the stall. I would contact Lito to get a better tune.
 

SladeDean

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Had talked to them quite a bit about the issue. My kid busted my laptop about two weeks after the tune install. So without wasting $500 on a cheap laptop to use once I would kinda hate to do that just for a data log. Has been in my thoughts though. I did go over every spec and part number with them. Maybe worth trying again. I did set my idle at 1000RPM just to see if it made a difference. Same results. What kicks me is car should idle up when the AC kicks on and I don't feel anything. Doesn't even hesitate just straight flop.

So my wife was over my shoulder reading that last post and asked me "why don't you get one from Rent A Center, rent it for two weeks and return it?" Not bad, picking one up tomorrow to start logging. Thanks for throwing out the thought. Definitely worth a shot.

It does indeed have a BAMA tune
 
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stkjock

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No codes thrown I take it?
 
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SladeDean

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No codes, besides basic tuning I'm not sure on crank sensor relearn.

Have done some searching. Seems like to have a successful learn it needs to be returned to stock. Going to check with a dealer tomorrow.
 
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truckman7

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Have u made sure the tps was installed correctly. Sounds like the classic tps problem I have on my dodge if I don't click it correctly.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

SladeDean

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Sure did, ran voltage check. She's good. Tried to adjust the set screw on my first GT500 TB because it was off a little. Problem is that it's not like my old BBK. It's a plastic set screw that snapped in half with hardly any pressure. Costing me another GT500 TB however the TP voltage was accurate with that one.
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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Does it currently have a Bama tune? Can you datalog the car? Honestly my assumption would be the Bama tune. Sound like the tune is not setup correctly for the cams and the stall. I would contact Lito to get a better tune.

Agree.
 

cbass

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It's the tune. Get a tune from Manuel (lito) and run faster, idle better, and the AC won't be needed because you'll be cool, even with it off.
 

stkjock

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Isn't that a Coyote thing?

I'm with the other guys on saying is the tune. Unless something in the valve train want installed correctly.

crap I think you're right, my mistake.
 

redfirepearlgt

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I'd have to agree in this case with the majority on it being tune related. If it was a base tune you received and was never datalogged for revision then I would start with that first. I'd give them 2-3 shots at it and then begin looking for another avenue.
 

BruceH

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There are multiple parameters involved with idle, even a special idle just for a/c.

Provided that the install was done correctly it's the tune. +one million on going with Manuel Pazo at www.tudyno.com He goes by "lito" on this and other forums.
 

Saleen304

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I had an issue once after replacing my AC clutch my car would die when I turned on my lights or the AC. I was convinced it was AC related. Turned out to be a bad ground on the radiator support. Never touched that bolt before so I didn't even think to check. I rested my hand on it when the engine was running and it was hot. Anyway, probably something stupid like that, but most likely the tune.
 

SladeDean

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UPDATE... So after sending logs off to BAMA I received a new tune. Same thing. Runs fine till operating temp then turn off for 10 minutes and it tries to stall at start. AC full blast kills it. Vent makes it struggle but usually catches itself. Same with drive and reverse. Reverse seems worse. All seems to be when load is on engine. Going to run through grounds tomorrow.
 

redfirepearlgt

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What kind of vacuum is the car pulling at idle? It won't be 15+ inches at idle with those cams but there should be vacuum present. Assuming that is good and that the cams were properly timed mechanically when installed (assuming something didn't inadvertently slip unknowingly) I still think this is tune related.

Did Bama give you specific data points to log for this driveability issue? And did you log it so they can see what is taking place when it slides into gear and stalls or when the AC is turned on and it stalls? OR are they simply asking for datalogs with no specifics?
 

CJ-

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Did they tune the vehicle so that the ECU knows that there are no longer "Charge Motion Plates" installed since the installation of the FRPP Intake Manifold or does the ECU still think the car is running on the old Intake Manifold with the Charge Motion Plates still installed?
 

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