But even in the left lane which slopes left or riding with the road crown directly under the car wants to wander right.
Yes, no change.
Gus, I think you're at the point where you need to go to a different shop, and at least see if the two machines agree with each other.
All the basics have been covered
* No worn parts
* All suspension angles well within spec.
* side-side rotation results in no change, essentially eliminating a bad tire.
Time to get some fresh eyes on the issue, and see what a different rack and machine make of the current numbers. IF there's a big change, then the first shop's hardware may be badly out of calibration, or the tech is just not doing things correctly.
I have some suspicions about that, simply based on the rear camber and toe numbers. If those numbers are correct, you have a pretty badly bent axle housing, and will very soon wear out the axle splines right where they pass through the diff. Ask me how I know... If the rear axle numbers are WRONG, though, that calls into question the numbers on the front, as well. Slapping the car on a different rack should solve that question one way or another.
If you really want to make sure you're in good shape first, park the car on a reasonably flat slab of concrete, and fabricate a plumb-bob out of some light fishing line and a nut. Grab a grease-pen or chalk, and use the plumb-bob to transcribe some points from the suspension onto the floor. Mark the following:
1) Center point of the bolt mounting the LCAs to the rear axle. I use the bolt-head side, and just hang the line from the center of the bolt head.
2) Center point of the bolt mounting the LCAs to the chassis. Again, use the center of the bolt-head.
3) A point on the FCAs as close to the inner edge of the tire as you can get. Find a hole, or something else that is VERY distinct and symmetrical, not a weld mark.
4) Center point of the bolt mounting the FCAs to the K-member, right through the forward bushing, right behind the rack bellows.
Now, back the car off that slab, and grab a tape measure. Measure the following:
A) Left-side #1 to right-side #3.
B) Right-side #1 to left-side #3.
C) Left-side #2 to left-side #4.
D) Right-side #2 to right-side #4.
E) Left side #2 to right-side #4.
F) Right-side #2 to left-side #4.
If A does not equal B, within a small amount, your suspension is not square.
If C does not equal D, within a VERY small amount, your frame is off, or the K-member isn't squared properly.
The E-F comparison will give you a clue if it's the K-member or the frame itself.
If everything comes up roses, then your frame and suspension are all square, your thrust angle is good, and there's no reason that the car would not be alignable.
I would also spot-check that rear toe number. Google "string alignment" and use that concrete pad again, and take VERY careful measurements to see if there really is that much toe involved. According to the alignment machine (possibly suspect), you have as much toe on the right rear as you do total toe in the front. That could cause some "odd" behaviour right there.
I'm betting on a bent axle housing.
:Once the bug hits you - Portable rack so you can be level anywhere. Temperature adjusting tire gauge, scales - The list goes on and on and on and on.
