FRPP Rear Diff Cover Question

Bill220

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I just ordered a FRPP rear diff cover and want to know if it'll clear the adjustable panhard bar. I really don't want to order more shit that I really don't need if I don't have to. This was an impulse purchase. I really don't need it. If I have to buy a bracket, I'm canceling the order.

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-4033-G2

Thanks!
 

ghunt81

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I got the knockoff version of that and it clears my J&M aluminum PB by a half inch or so (installed).

However I will say it was a little tricky to get over the ring gear during installation with the panhard bar in place. It can be done, it's just easy to mess up your silicone trying to finagle it into place.
 

o2sys

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I have the finned frpp diff cover with Whiteline Adjustable Panhard bar and lowered 2" on coil overs and have no clearance issues.
 

BruceH

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I just ordered a FRPP rear diff cover and want to know if it'll clear the adjustable panhard bar. I really don't want to order more shit that I really don't need if I don't have to. This was an impulse purchase. I really don't need it. If I have to buy a bracket, I'm canceling the order.

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-4033-G2

Thanks!

Mine does.
 

travelers

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It clears, If you want to go to AMs web site and look under driveline there are customer pics with them installed.
 

skwerl

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Just be smart and unbolt one end of the panhard bar before swapping the covers. It will clear by about 1/2" when done.

I had a Drake on the Bullitt but same clearance as the FRPP.

IMG_1989.jpg
 

Wraith

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I got the knockoff version of that and it clears my J&M aluminum PB by a half inch or so (installed).

However I will say it was a little tricky to get over the ring gear during installation with the panhard bar in place. It can be done, it's just easy to mess up your silicone trying to finagle it into place.

Who makes the knock off.....and does it offer added structural support?
 

Boone

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Be careful with the bearing stabilizer bolts! I did not adjust them when I went from a gasket to permatex, and differential bearing failure resulted shortly thereafter. Tighten the bolts until they contact the bearing caps, and them put 5-10 ft lbs on them.
 

Bill220

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Thanks guys! I'll unbolt the one side of the PHB and move it out of the way.

Boone - I don't even know what the bearing stabilizer bolts are (I haven't read the directions). How do you adjust them? Just tighten them down to the ft lb torque you mentioned?

I'm not the most mechanically adept guy but like to do my own work.

I have a Paxton blower kit that'll go on first. I probably won't do the diff cover for a while.
 

skwerl

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Thanks guys! I'll unbolt the one side of the PHB and move it out of the way.

Boone - I don't even know what the bearing stabilizer bolts are (I haven't read the directions). How do you adjust them? Just tighten them down to the ft lb torque you mentioned?


I'm not the most mechanically adept guy but like to do my own work.

I have a Paxton blower kit that'll go on first. I probably won't do the diff cover for a while.

The bearing stabilizer bolts are the two large bolts on the face of the cover which line up with the bearings on either side of the large pinion gear. The purpose of the bolts is to help keep the bearings from going egg shaped and torquing out of position under extreme loads.

One thing the directions do not mention is that these bolts are not sealed and gear lube will leak out of them over time if you do not seal them. Easy enough. Before installation, run the bolts most of the way in and apply some thread sealant or RTV silicone to the threads inside the cover. You can use the same RTV that you will use to seal the cover (black or gray is my preference). Then run the bolts back out so you can install the cover.

Apply your RTV around the mating edge of the cover and bolt it up in place. Do not remove the excess RTV until it is dry, otherwise you will make a mess of it. Once the cover is bolted in place, run the bearing stabilizer bolts down until they just touch the bearings. DO NOT put excessive pressure on these bolts or you will distort the bearing and cause premature failure. You want them just lightly seated against the bearing race. Tighten the lock nuts while holding the bolts in place so they don't turn.

Wait until the silicone cures, remove the excess with a razor blade or scraper and fill the differential with the appropriate gear lube.
 

Bill220

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The bearing stabilizer bolts are the two large bolts on the face of the cover which line up with the bearings on either side of the large pinion gear. The purpose of the bolts is to help keep the bearings from going egg shaped and torquing out of position under extreme loads.

One thing the directions do not mention is that these bolts are not sealed and gear lube will leak out of them over time if you do not seal them. Easy enough. Before installation, run the bolts most of the way in and apply some thread sealant or RTV silicone to the threads inside the cover. You can use the same RTV that you will use to seal the cover (black or gray is my preference). Then run the bolts back out so you can install the cover.

Apply your RTV around the mating edge of the cover and bolt it up in place. Do not remove the excess RTV until it is dry, otherwise you will make a mess of it. Once the cover is bolted in place, run the bearing stabilizer bolts down until they just touch the bearings. DO NOT put excessive pressure on these bolts or you will distort the bearing and cause premature failure. You want them just lightly seated against the bearing race. Tighten the lock nuts while holding the bolts in place so they don't turn.

Wait until the silicone cures, remove the excess with a razor blade or scraper and fill the differential with the appropriate gear lube.

Thank you sir! I really appreciate this.
 

nyuk98GT

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Chaps,

Well, I was not as wise as Skwerl but he gave me good advice to fix my mistake. For the record, I have the FRPP cover with the fill and drain plugs. I got those sealed but I completely overlooked sealing the stabilizer bolts. I noticed a couples spots on the garage floor and knew exactly what the problem was.

I used Permatex Teflon thread sealant - it flows into the threads nicely. Method: loosened the bolts all the way out; cleaned them with Prep-Sol (or Varsol or favorite degreaser) on a strip of terrycloth; dried the threads; applied sealant; rolled the bolts back in and tightened to spec (5 to 10 lb-ft; jam nuts are 25 to 30 lb-ft), let them sit overnight before use, and now all is good.

It sure would have been nice to have thought about sealing those threads the first time.... :uhoh2:

HTH,

Chris
 

skwerl

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Chris- If you remember correctly, I also forgot to seal mine and also had to deal with it after the fact. I was trying to let Bill benefit from my mistake. Eventually one of us will get it right the first time. :rotflmao:
 

Boone

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Where was this freakin' thread when I destroyed my bearings!?!?!?!?!? I never thought about sealing the stabilizing bolts. That will happen now because my diff cover is off for a gear change. I like the thread sealant idea.
 

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