engine build reccomendations with 93 octane in mind

46addict said:

Your current fuel setup won't take you to the max potential of 93 octane. You're going to want larger injectors and/or get larger pumps for the hat you're using.

Another option for the crank is to get the Coyote crank for a slight bump in displacement. But polishing the stock crank and reusing it will work just fine.

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46addict said:

There is a member here selling his 3v shortblock with a Coyote crank and Manley rods, but he purchased the rotating assembly as a boxed set.
I must have missed some details. I've also read Coyote rods will work with the stock 3v crank. Is this true?

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46addict said:

There is a member here selling his 3v shortblock with a Coyote crank and Manley rods, but he purchased the rotating assembly as a boxed set.
I must have missed some details. I've also read Coyote rods will work with the stock 3v crank. Is this true?

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BruceH said:

Weisco pistons are well made and have a skirt coating. I wouldn't put the money up for the rods though. There are very good rods available for $300 - $400 with arp 2000 bolts.

All of the mod motor rods are forged in China, even Manley. There are many that are finish machined in the US and the machining is what counts.

Stock stroke stock crank, pistons and rings of your choosing, and ebay rods with arp 2000 bolts. That's where I'd start. Figuring out bearings isn't a big deal. Rod and main bearings will run you about $125 or less for good bearings. IMO stock or stock like bearings with stock like material are better than race bearings.

It all depends on what you think is important in the build. If you think it's important than it's worth it to pay for what you want.

In the end you make decisions and hope it all works out. I wish you the best no matter what you go with.

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46addict said:

Your current fuel setup won't take you to the max potential of 93 octane. You're going to want larger injectors and/or get larger pumps for the hat you're using.

Another option for the crank is to get the Coyote crank for a slight bump in displacement. But polishing the stock crank and reusing it will work just fine.

Click to expand...

BruceH said:

The coyote crank isn't a direct swap part. It takes some serious machining to make it work with a 3v. Lito covered it in his build thread.

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46addict said:

There is a member here selling his 3v shortblock with a Coyote crank and Manley rods, but he purchased the rotating assembly as a boxed set.
I must have missed some details. I've also read Coyote rods will work with the stock 3v crank. Is this true?

Click to expand...

v8venomgt said:

i've heard good feedback about weisco pistons from a few people that i trust to build a well built, reliable car. i think that thinking down the line of things, being able to get an off the shelf piston may not be such a bad choice. should i be considering additional coatings? i do think i want to go with a 10.1 piston. reason being is that since the car is primarily street driven, i don't want to go so low that it feels sluggish down low till it gets in boost. sure the trade off is more boost and crazy top end, but i'm good with a compromise of good street manners and good power.

that's an interesting bit about the forgings being farmed out to china. i had no idea. that changes things i think. now, before i was serious about pulling the trigger on a motor, i had thought of tracking down a take out terminator's crank and rods. i know the stock crank has been used in several applications with surprisingly good success but i think that there is still value in the piece of mind with an oem forged crank. these days, i'm really liking the oem performance parts (which is funny because this is a turbo car, and not a DOB powered although the thought had crossed my mind a few times to jump ship). what do you not like about race bearings?




would you by chance know a ceiling of range that is capable of as it sits? would just an injector change be sufficient? then again, it just depends on what i ultimately do. if i choose to stick with this turbo i may max that out before the fuel system.







i'd think that when you factory in the cost of a 'yote crank, the extra machining, and labor it would take to get the oil pump oriented that it would be near or over the cost of a refurbished terminator crank from modmax for i think $800? using a 'yote crank would not only be slick and unique, but you have the opportunity to buy a forged oem crank that is readily available.

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v8venomgt said:

would you by chance know a ceiling of range that is capable of as it sits? would just an injector change be sufficient? then again, it just depends on what i ultimately do. if i choose to stick with this turbo i may max that out before the fuel system.

i'd think that when you factory in the cost of a 'yote crank, the extra machining, and labor it would take to get the oil pump oriented that it would be near or over the cost of a refurbished terminator crank from modmax for i think $800? using a 'yote crank would not only be slick and unique, but you have the opportunity to buy a forged oem crank that is readily available.

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BruceH said:

Factory bearings are designed to hold tolerance and let small particles pass to the oil filter. Race bearings have a soft layer that is designed to trap by embedding small particles. This soft layer can open up tolerances over time.

IMO race bearings are meant to be inspected periodically and at that time tolerances are rechecked. This is fine for someone running a race car who tears the motor down every other race but it's just not the route to go for a street car that the owner is only planning on teardowns every 50,000 miles or so. I think they are oversold to people who are building motors for the street and more importantly people who aren't going to be doing periodic teardowns to inspect components and check tolerances. Once again just my opinion.

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46addict said:

For the fuel system, I have asked the same question in the past and I was told 550-600whp on the GT500 pumps and 47lb injectors. You could raise the ceiling to 680-ish whp on the 60lb injectors with a BAP, or a pump upgrade. What size turbo are you using? 600+whp has been documented with a 6767.

I only mentioned the Yote crank because I saw someone else using it. For cost effectiveness the stock crank will work just fine and it should hold.

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v8venomgt said:

very interesting. i'm in the camp of build it and be done with it. the last thing i want to do is consistently rebuild. i do wonder though why people at this point use race bearings on a car thats primarily street driven. good info



my turbo is a garret ec1 61MM turbo A/R.70. im sure jim over at thp could provide the efficiency range (680ish) but i'm skeptical in thinking that it would make even that much power efficiently. i could certainly be wrong, it's just a gut feeling. i may be limited on space too, but as the build gets some more momentum i'll probably partner with jim at that point to discuss options, i may need something with a smaller frame although he does sell his kits with a 76 as an option iirc.

it's funny you mention the 'yote crank. i originally wrote this post with that crank in mind but then came across the info of all of the special machining and witchcraft that's required to get everything harmonious. i don't want to get into it that deep. that said, i'll be on the hunt for a cobra crank in the near future.

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BruceH said:

Not that you were going for a stroker, just felt the need to further interject reasons to not use a coyote crank unless the bore was going to be increased to match the stroke. Surprisingly this is what Ford did with the coyote motor. Why? Because of that harmony a square motor provides.

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