Door sub wiring help

I've decided I don't really want a big sub in the truck so will upgrade the 8" door subs. I've read most of the Tunes threads relating to door subs but could still use some advice.

I know the factory subs are 1 ohm DVC and the harness has 2 wire sets connecting to both sets of terminals.

I know about the Shelby Kicker set but don't want them because they are 2 ohm SVC.

I also know about the 43cwrt81 subs from kicker as being a true plug and play 1 ohm DVC but I think they are too expensive at $300 a pair and they don't go very deep.

I've replaced my upper door and rear deck speakers with decent Rockford Fosgate units so when I found shallow mount 8" 2 ohm DVC subs by RF, I thought they'd be a good choice for about $200 a pair. They are rated down to 38 hz which is pretty low for an 8". Model P3SD2-8

So, what wiring method would work best for these?

Hook both wire sets to both terminal sets?
or
Use one wire set only, and wire the DVC in parallel?

14 gauge copper will suit you fine.

Sorry maybe I was unclear.

My question was about what wiring method to use.

If you are replacing speakers and not upgrading the amps you will need to match the impedance of the speaker you are replacing. Measure the impedance of the speakers you are replacing with an ohm meter. Then find a speaker of your flavor that matches that impedance level. Running a lower impedance will only burn up the amplifier. If the factory sub is 1 ohm then you either need a 1 ohm stable single voice coil or a 2 ohm dual Voice coil speaker configured in parallel for a total of 1 ohm impedance. A speaker being DVC does not make it an inferior speaker btw. There are plenty of crap speakers with DVC's.

Thanks. So to match the 1 ohm stock amps I need to wire each 2 ohm DVC subs in parallel to achieve a 1 ohm resistance.

So because I'll be only using one pair of leads from each amp and basically taping up the other one, am I only getting half the amps power output delivered to the sub?

That is correct. Each of the 2 ohm voice coils tied in parallel to each other pos to pos, and neg to neg will result in 1 ohm impedance on that speaker.

With Impedances (resistance) of equal value You can apply the following formula in parallel to calculate total impedance (resistance): The impedance Value divided by the total number of impedance loads.

In other words if you have four speakers and each speaker has a voice coil impedance of 4 ohms - 4 (the impedance value) divided by the total number of speakers (number of loads) will equal 1 ohm.

DVC works the same way. Two 2 ohm voice coils equals 2/2=1 ohm of impedance. Two 4 ohm impedance voice coils in parallel equals 4/2=2 ohms of impedance.

Hope that straightens it out for ya. Sounds like you are on the right track.

I faced this upgrading my door speakers, I went with the Kickers and a trunk sub. The SVC kickers play at a lower volume than the OEM DVC speakers but sound much tighter and clean adjusting the bass EQ up and cranking up the volume. I was told not to wire both sets leads from the factory amp to the single set for the Kickers or bad things would happen. I realize you are talking about doing the opposite. If I were do do it again I'd consider these:

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-lbF4VgXYi6p/p_130TSS2002/Pioneer-TS-SW2002D2.html

I'd probably, for lack of any other knowledge, just wire up the DVCs as intended whilst adjusting the bass EQ up a bit.

If the factory amp is a mono block design but uses independent leads for wiring simplicity then eliminating one is fine, if it's a true 2 channel amp you will be on half the power the factory sub received and half again the ohms on that one channel with the mentioned wiring stressing out the amp, so...maybe just run a new amp to power the after market subs...