Firewall to passenger compartment access

Bill220

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Also it may help to unbolt the tank straps on either the front or back of the tank so you can drop it down a couple of inches. This really helps with the angle Ford put in between the pump and the access hole. They are offset so it helps to have a little extra wiggle room.

I would but I can't get under there. It's lowered and I can't move it to put it on planks to jack it up.

It's best to do it with under 1/4 a tank or so.

Oh boy, I'm between 1/2-3/4. Guess I can siphon it off if need be.

Is there any cutting/splicing required to transfer the level sensor?

Apparently not. I have had my share of frustrations with the kit but it seems pretty straightforward. I mean hell, I'll be running 8psi (If memory serves me correctly) so there's not all that much to it. Just a lot of little things that I wasn't prepared for. No need for anything additional in the way of wiring or a boost a pump.

It's not gonna give me what I want HP wise ultimately. Down the road I'll do an air to air intercooler and a smaller pulley and/or an off road H pipe but my Mustang fund is empty at this point. This will have to suffice for the summer. It's a proven, reliable setup from a proven vendor so I feel pretty safe with it.
 

Wes06

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You can always get a base tune for the car to run, get it moved to lift it up but I did fuel tank swaps easily without moving the tank.

To drain the tank I'd recommend getting tuner to have the pump run full time in order to easily drain it, disconnect at the fuel filter and pour into a 5 gallon can.
 

Bill220

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You can always get a base tune for the car to run, get it moved to lift it up but I did fuel tank swaps easily without moving the tank.

To drain the tank I'd recommend getting tuner to have the pump run full time in order to easily drain it, disconnect at the fuel filter and pour into a 5 gallon can.

Can I do it with the fuel that's in it?
 

Wes06

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Do what?
The draining of the tank or the startup?
 

Bill220

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Do what?
The draining of the tank or the startup?

I just ordered a siphon off Amazon. I don't have an extra hose and don't want fuel in my mouth, lol. I'll drain the tank down. I'm gonna try and remove the pump without loosening the tank straps first. As a last resort I'll go the tune route if I can't get the pump out and back in. I would imagine I'd get charged for the tune and really don't want to shell out any more money.
 

Wes06

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I have lito tuning mine and just asked for a pump always on file and he sent it. It's easiest way to drain the tank.

What tune are you going to run
 

Bill220

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I have lito tuning mine and just asked for a pump always on file and he sent it. It's easiest way to drain the tank.

What tune are you going to run

It's a Brenspeed kit so I'm running their canned one they include for this particular kit. It came preloaded on the X4 I got with the kit. It's a nice, complete kit and they have good instructions.

If/when I intercool and pulley it, I'll either take it to them (which is a 360 mile trip one way) and have the intercooler/pulley installed and dyno tuned or get somebody local to install the intercooler & pulley and have Lito remote tune it. I'm done wrenching on this car unless it's simple or I already know how to do it. I haven't enjoyed this experience.
 

Wes06

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If you ever enjoyed the install of go fast parts. You bought the wrong go fast parts.

They are designed to make you hate your car and question your sanity for ever wanting them. The enjoyment part comes later.

Also could just jumper the jump to run off the battery and drain it
 

Bill220

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Lol that makes sense I guess. Thanks for the fuel draining tip. The siphon will be here from amazon tomorrow. It's multipurpose so I can use it for other stuff. If it doesn't work I'll do the jumper thing. Thank you sir. You have been as have many others.
 

Bill220

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Thanks Scott! Much, much appreciated. Once that pump is in, all I have left to do is load the tune to make the car run. Then we (my son and I) can heat shrink, loom and tape all the wiring modifications and get that damn Aeroforce gauge in.

I can't wait to hear it run. I want to take it out and test it out but won't until the roads are clear of salt or whatever crap they lay down.
 

Scott

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Your welcome Bill. I have a Fore Innovations Return Style fuel system that I have to complete my install on. Have everything done under the hood and all the wiring for the FC3 Pump Controller and the pump power wires. Still need to swap the hat and run the new fuel lines for the feed and return.
 

Bill220

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Your welcome Bill. I have a Fore Innovations Return Style fuel system that I have to complete my install on. Have everything done under the hood and all the wiring for the FC3 Pump Controller and the pump power wires. Still need to swap the hat and run the new fuel lines for the feed and return.

That sounds complicated. The Aeroforce boost sensor kit is confusing as hell to me wiring-wise. My kid gets it, though. He's an electrician.
I should have gone with a two pod SOS pillar and gotten a plain old boost gauge. I'm trying to keep my car low key (it's a Bullitt) and as stock looking as possible so I went with a single gauge and pod. If I had it to do over again........
 

skwerl

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I had my boost gauge in a Roush vent pod. The Aeroforce gauge is handy but you have too many parameters you will want to keep tabs on without tying up one of the slots with boost.
 

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I'm putting boost sensor on mine just to see what it's actually making with the pullies, bought sensor off Amazon for like 15 bucks rather than aero forces for 50, same thing.

Will run oil pressure on one selection and flip around the second option
 

Bill220

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Just hoping it plugs right in where the old one was.
 

Bill220

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I'm putting boost sensor on mine just to see what it's actually making with the pullies, bought sensor off Amazon for like 15 bucks rather than aero forces for 50, same thing.

Will run oil pressure on one selection and flip around the second option

That's exactly what I should have done. However, I didn't want more than one gauge pod in the interior. Trying to keep it low key. In retrospect, I'd have passed on the Aeroforce boost option and gotten a plain old gauge. I'm in in now, though.
If I can figure out how to program it, I just want boost and IAT displayed, shift light on left to come on at 6,000 and the right one to come on at 6,300. The tune redlines at 6,750 but I don't want to go past 6.500, the stock rpm l limit for the Bullitt.
 

Wes06

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When I went DOB they recommend Rev limiting at 6k, forced induction is even more stress on the stock assembly and the higher you rev, the forces begin stacking exponentially
 

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