BBB Winter Build - KISS or...

Boone

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I figured as much. No problem here, and safety is best not left to chance. Thanks for your input, and it's always apreciated.

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Boone

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just figured out we are using the same shop

I had my motor work done at Pro-Dyno, but I'm using Fastlane to do any work I don't want to tackle myself. I'm happy so far, and we'll see what the future holds.

On the future plans for my car, I'm wondering if I should hold off on the RE-71R tires until I get some more supportive seats in the car. It's already tough to stay in place pulling 1.0g's, and I would think stickier rubber is going to exacerbate the issue. I'm planning to do seats in the winter of 2017, and I'm concerned about car control as I'm sliding all over the place on my stock leather seats. I'm probably thinking about this too much, which wouldn't be unusual. Does anyone know of a substance I can apply to the leather to make it a little more tacky at least? Kind of like an anti-Armour All substance.
 

AndrewNagle

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I had my motor work done at Pro-Dyno, but I'm using Fastlane to do any work I don't want to tackle myself. I'm happy so far, and we'll see what the future holds.

Isn't that ironic. Had engine work done by pro-dyne in 2015 and they never quiet got my high oil pressure issue right. Finally broke something in the VCT and decided to try Fastlane Motorsports. Had put aside $$$ in case oil pressure problem was expensive. Turned out not to be so having them install a Paxton SC while they have it. Also changing gears from 4.10 to 3.73 i am 5 hour one way drive from them. Should be ready this week.


Found this. https://www.reddit.com/r/AutoDetail...ol_conditioner_is_making_my_car_seats_sticky/
 

Boone

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So a leather conditioner may do the trick. I'll test it out to see how it works.

I live in High Point, so give me a PM when, and if, you're coming through the Greensboro area with your car. I'm in San Diego for the next 11 days (typing this from 37,000 ft.), but I'd like to see your ride if the timing works out some time.

I like the "put on a Paxton on a whim" idea. I'm planning to go FI sometime in the future, but more work to do until I get to that point.
 

AndrewNagle

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So a leather conditioner may do the trick. I'll test it out to see how it works.

I live in High Point, so give me a PM when, and if, you're coming through the Greensboro area with your car. I'm in San Diego for the next 11 days (typing this from 37,000 ft.), but I'd like to see your ride if the timing works out some time.

I like the "put on a Paxton on a whim" idea. I'm planning to go FI sometime in the future, but more work to do until I get to that point.

Will do.

Had done a lot so I could do it spontaneously brakes, built engine rear end beefs up suspension, etc

Yeah had a good chunk of change set aside in case it was major engine trouble. So when I found out it was still good called Beefcake and got a sweet deal on the SC.

Was in High Point in Nov. HPU is on my daughters short list for college so I am sure we will be back at least one more time.

Have a good day time in San Diego.
 

Boone

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Fiona's got some new shoes!!! HRE FF15 wheels in 19x10 ET40 with Potenza RE-71R tires in 285/35/19. At 20.6 pounds per wheel, it's a significant unsprung weight reduction, and no spacers are needed to clear the Brembo 4P calipers.

20170225_105608.jpg
 

Boone

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Along with the new shoes comes an alignment. Comments welcomed on the camber differences. Toe and caster are right where I wanted them.

While I was at it, I took the time to recenter the rear axle. Had to shift it to the passenger side about 1/8" to get it just right. Adjustable PHB made it pretty easy, but it's a bitch getting to the jam nut on the passenger side. I just wedged a pry bar against the jam nut and turned the bar, then tightened the jam nut on the drivers side.

Allignment 022517 Caster and Camber.jpg Allignment 022517 Toe.jpg
 

Kidd

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Nice build. Can we see some more pics of the car with the HREs?
 

swflastang05

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Along with the new shoes comes an alignment. Comments welcomed on the camber differences. Toe and caster are right where I wanted them.

While I was at it, I took the time to recenter the rear axle. Had to shift it to the passenger side about 1/8" to get it just right. Adjustable PHB made it pretty easy, but it's a bitch getting to the jam nut on the passenger side. I just wedged a pry bar against the jam nut and turned the bar, then tightened the jam nut on the drivers side.

View attachment 58710 View attachment 58711

It all looks good to me, including the camber difference, I'm no expert but it seems insignificant to me.
 

Boone

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Can we see some more pics of the car with the HREs?

20170308_181731.jpg 20170308_181633.jpg

AutoX test and tune a few weeks back went well. Driver mod is the #1 priority. I'll be running in the season's first event in Greensboro, NC this Sunday to see how we stack up.

Winter plans (I know it's still winter, but always look forward to NEXT winter) are seats and aero. Aero will include a splitter, spoiler, and hopefully hood vent. Seats will be #1 on my list because it will help with the driver mod. The sides of my knees are always killing me after any AutoX or HPDE. It would be wonderfully novel to operate the vehicle while not being spread out bracing myself.
 

Boone

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Picked up my first win in an AutoX this past weekend. Small lot with a tight course in the low 30's. Won by 0.7 seconds, and my 2nd and 3rd runs would have put me on the top of the podium. Finish was 37th of 92 cars in PAX, but that's just the way it is in a little lot. Not an S197 strong suit.

A lot more driver mod is required. I know I could have done much better, so I've got that going for me... which is nice.
 

Boone

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NEW HAULER

I picked this up to pull Fiona around. I don't think it will have any trouble getting the job done. Not exactly the Harley I've been dreaming of, but a nice substitute.

s-l1600.jpg
 

Boone

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Look closer... it's not a pickup, it's an Excursion. A 2008 Harley Davidson Excursion (sort of). I do have some work to do electrically, so I could use an assist from any of the wiring geniuses on the forum. The following items on the dash are not hooked up yet, and I'm investigating how to make it happen:

In-dash Ford electric trailer brake controller
Rear window defroster
In-dash Ford auxiliary switches (total of 4)
Reverse sensor override switch

Other than the above, everything on the X works swimmingly. 123K miles on the clock, and lots of extras:

Pioneer AVIC touch screen stereo w/ nav (steering wheel controls function)
Rancho 9000 nine-way adjustable shocks (transforms the ride)
22" KMC XD Series wheels
Falken 305/45/18 wheels
Block Heater
LED taillights and 3rd brake light
LED interior lighting
2004 F-250 Harley Davidson Edition Dash

I'm sure I'm leaving something out, but you get the idea.

AutoX was short and sweet. Tight switchbacks required patience, which is why my 2nd and 3rd runs were faster than my 4th and 5th. Huge push on the three 180* turns when I was trying to hustle the car. What hot pressures are you guys running RE-71R's at? I think my pressures were a little too low at 33psi. I can't keep the car underneath me when I run tight courses in first gear, and I bog when in 2nd gear. Maybe the rear LCA relocation brackets will help with this in the future? More open tracks should only lengthen my advantage over the rest of the CAM entries. I tried to get data and video with Harry's Lap Timer, but the trigger didn't work, so nothing good to share. I'll tinker with Harry's to make sure I have something to entertain you guys in the future.
 

Boone

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A couple of questions came up while I performed track prep this past weekend (VIR coming up this Friday). On went new DBA rotors and Carbotech XP-12 pads all around. While making the swap, I found the drivers side bumpstop was disintegrated (new ones are on the way now from Summit). I noticed the bump stops on both sides of the rear axle were contacting the sloped surface of the frame and not the flat surface above the axle.

20170414_144330.jpg

Is this correct, or does my axle have too much rotation? I just had new gears put in the diff, and I added a BMR adjustable upper link to optimize the pinion angle. Is the contact point of the bumpstop normal, or is this an indication I have an issue? Do I need to think about cutting off the bump stop mounts on the axle and rewelding them so they contact the flat surface?

Other track prep I performed was as follows:
installation of the door bars
emptied the oil catch can
swapped tires front to back

I'll bed the pads some evening this week, and I should be good to go?
 

Boone

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I managed to get out and have some fun with SVT Superfest at VIR-Full. Trip to VIR confirmed some stickier rubber was a huge help. Took 5.5 seconds off my PB. Managed to have my ABS go south on my during the session, and I took a trip through the grass going into turn 1. You can hear the beginning of lockup at the end of the video. EDIT: Speedometer is off by 16% due to rear gear and larger tire diameter. Updated tune has fixed the issue.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mye5xL9AdFc&t=84s

The following weekend I had an autocross with Triad Sports Car Club at Danville Airport. TSCC lumps all CAM cars into one class (even though the class is 3X as large as any other class), so any CAM-S car worth its salt has a lock on the win. What a bunch of Maroons!!! Btw, I lost to a Saturn Sky Redline that was well prepped and driven by the director of the Blue Ridge Region of the SCCA. If they would just to lump us together, they could use the correct CAM multipliers for PAX to adjust the same way they do the Pro classes. I would have won the class with PAX, 2nd as it was.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=11QAH9PYoEI
 
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bujeezus

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Did you ever figure out if you were having an issue with axle rotation? Cool videos btw.
 

Boone

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My 3.55:1 gears were installed at Fastlane Motorsports. After digging in, they recommended I install an adjustable upper link to correct pinion angle tolerances. If the pinion angle is in tolerance and the wheels are centered in the wheel well, then I'll live with the bump stop issue. Contact points indicate they've been hitting there for a long time, and the sloped surface will load them more gradually.

I suspect the adjustable lower arms are too short, and the adjustable upper arm is too long which is causing the axle rotation.
 

RocketcarX

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You need to cut the top off of that bump stop, the car is lower than stock.
 

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