Best Way to wire u SLP Line lock

Hey folks!

About to install my line lock today, and I reading through the manual.

It states the solenoid is getting power at all time and it will be ground controlled with a switch within the car.

I don't find it to be a safe method, what a corrosion situation is to occur and somehow picks up ground from being bolted down wouldn't it lock up and prevent me from using my front brakes?

Would it be better to run the power from within the car or use a relay?

Would like to hear everyone's opinion, the car is a DD

I kinda like switching my stuff on the positive side of the wire. And just bolt the ground down anywhere.

How many amps does the solenoid take? If it's very low you can just run a switch rated to it and wire directly, if not a relay may be needed, but same setup of switching the positive trigger wire.

It's your car so it's up to you but I would use the cruise control OFF button to activate. You'll need a 5-pin relay if you want the ability to switch from cruise control function to line lock, and vice versa. See attached diagram. It has a pic of the horn but the principle is the same.

The CC OFF wire is the orange wire, fourth pin from the right. This harness plugs in underneath the steering wheel, near the tilt lever. You have to unbolt the plastic cover to access this area. I'm not sure which wire controls the ON part so I can't tell you which wire that is. Maybe it isn't accessible or else someone would have figured it out already. Photo credits to pics06gtstang.

I did mine with a relay on the positive side. you can see the ground wire connected right at the solenoid mount on the frame rail.




I have a master switch overhead to power up the system.




And then activate it with the little black button on my shifter handle. This button runs through a 3 way switch that I use to swap it between the line lock and the O/D.

07 Boss said:

And then activate it with the little black button on my shifter handle. This button runs through a 3 way switch that I use to swap it between the line lock and the O/D.

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Where is that 3 way switch located? And are the lighted switch wires going to the fuse block for power?

46addict said:

Where is that 3 way switch located? And are the lighted switch wires going to the fuse block for power?

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The 3-way is down on the center console hiding behind the e-brake handle. It's a small inconspicuous little toggle.




I don't remember which circuit I piggy backed off of but I think I use a simple add-a-fuse circuit thingy in my inside fuse box.

It is a little bit of a procedure staging but I have had much more complicated staging procedures so it's no biggie. Line up, power up the system, turn off O/D, flip the toggle, apply brake, hold button and proceed to heat up the tires.

CC off switch here as well; I used the sticky in DIY section which Kimmer did years ago; works flawlessly .

I have mine switched off the ground. So, I have a toggle switch right under the dash and a momentary button switch. I have just my stock shifter and want the inside of my car to look totally stock. When racing, I leave the toggle switch flipped, and I just hold the button down while doing my burnout. I made a little bracket that has both the toggle switch and the button. I bolted to the bottom of the dash with a bolt that was already there. Didn't have to cut or modify anything. It's basically right above my right knee. The toggle switch really isn't necessary but I like having the whole works switched off just so I never have to worry about anyone pushing the button, etc., who doesn't know what they are doing.

Don't forget that the positive side has a 10 AMP fuse which you could simply pull when you are not at the track.

BTW Shawn if you need a Power Bleeder I have one you are welcome to borrow.

Are you going to or did you siphon the brake fluid from your master cylinder before removing the brake line? I took a look in the master cylinder and there is a restriction that will not let my "turkey baster" get down into it.

Scott said:

Don't forget that the positive side has a 10 AMP fuse which you could simply pull when you are not at the track.

BTW Shawn if you need a Power Bleeder I have one you are welcome to borrow.

Are you going to or did you siphon the brake fluid from your master cylinder before removing the brake line? I took a look in the master cylinder and there is a restriction that will not let my "turkey baster" get down into it.

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Hey Scott, I purchased a power brake bleeder kit!
I figured I will run a switch relay.
Have a secondary switch to control the power side of the relay to de-activate the whole system!

Thanks for the input!

06monera96 said:

Hey Scott, I purchased a power brake bleeder kit!
I figured I will run a switch relay.
Have a secondary switch to control the power side of the relay to de-activate the whole system!

Thanks for the input!

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Your welcome!

Did you siphon your master, if so how? I have a "horse needle" but it would take forever.

Scott said:

Your welcome!

Did you siphon your master, if so how? I have a "horse needle" but it would take forever.

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Haven't done installed it yet.
Due to cold weather I cannot work outside.

06monera96 said:

Haven't done installed it yet.
Due to cold weather I cannot work outside.

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I hear ya, same problem for me only in the garage. Forecast is for warmer weather the next couple of day but unfortunately it is going to be raining.

indeed getting my firewire ready to hook up to my wideband so Lito can start datalogging my driving and finally finished up the WOT log