Fuel System Issues After Supercharger Install

PaxtonGT05

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The wire upgrade will help with that stuff as well. It runs its own 40amp relay and 30amp fuse with larger wire for less resistance directly from the battery. So the stock wire and relay and fuse will see no current as its just run to ground to trigger the new relay and then supply power to the fpdm on the new better power wire. This is what lowers current draw of the pump, which means the motor runs cooler, improving pump control and flow, which can be seen from the lowering of pump duty cycle on a log.

Nice, sounds like a solid upgrade for sure. Should answer a lot of questions.
 

PaxtonGT05

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I noticed your sig mentions an Autolite H1. If you mean HT1 those are the wrong plugs and you need the HT0 for a boosted setup. Then close the gap to somewhere between .030 to .032.

The lambda activity sounds normal for the parts you're using. The Carquest pump will start out rich and lean out as it runs out of breath. Whereas the DW will enrich the mixture as the engine demands more fuel with more rpm. It sounds like the added current of the DW pump is straining the stock wiring system, so doing the wiring upgrade should help. Remember to mount the relay as close to the battery as possible so you can keep your power & ground wires short.

Lastly I would double check that the pump is accounted for in the tune, as Bruce mentioned.

And it's too late for this now but keeping the PPRV might have been better for you. One of the drawbacks of this mod is the starting problems you were having. If your duty cycles aren't on the edge of maxing out there's no need to delete the PPRV.

So I checked and yes I have the HT0, however I did not gap them. And looking on a few websites it seems they are about a .045 in the box... so that's something else I need to look into now I guess.
 

Marble

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It's really a two beer job. I got the special gapper years ago and have used it every time I swapped plugs.

Whenever I get a new set I gap them and Ott then back in the box ready to go in.
 

JeremyH

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To expand a little, you don't "need" hto's or colder plugs right off the bat on a basic setup, somehow that seems to have become the norm over the years. Compression, boost level, fuel type, iat etc will come into play when selecting the best plug heat range and gap for your setup. I have found the 3v likes some heat to make good power so dont feel like you "have" to have colder plugs or colder tsat etc, look at your setup and make a determination based on your goals. I felt like there were drawbacks of having colder or too cold plugs for what the setup needs, namely cold start drivability in cooler weather decrease in mileage etc, not a big deal if its a weekend or drag car, but if it sees regular street use might be a little annoying. In general 8-9psi 450-475hp range on a stock block with 93 or e85, the car seems to perform better with a stock heat range plug gapped appropriately. I would also take a look at the plugs after the setup is up and running and tuned to see if they are too hot or too cold for your setup. You can google or hit up youtube to see how to read a plug. If you have higher iat's with like a twin screw or procharger might want colder range just to keep things safer. I had colder hto's for a bit when I ran 93. When I started running e85 I went back to stock heat range with ht1's car feels better/smoother in the lower rpm range and runs good and makes good power. And I still run 93 with them as well. I run 12psi on 93 with them and 16psi with e85 760rwhp. Keep in mind my setup has ambient iat;s at that power level and motor is 9:1 compression. When I pulled out the ht1's after a year or so to put in a fresh set they all looked great still so stock heat range at .028 gap seems to be appropriate for my setup.

In general 10psi or less on 93 or e85 with decent iat's and stock compression I would keep stock heat range plugs and just check them out make sure every thing is good. If running more boost, more compression or have higher iat's then you can start stepping down to colder heat ranges as needed for the setup. Also the go to gap has become .032, I am a believer in only running the tightest gap you have to on the setup to run good and not get blowout. Car runs smoother with amore complete burn with the wider you can stay on the gap. So if your running 8psi 450hp try a gap in the .034-.036 range and see how she runs. And just gap down as necessary for the setup.
 
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PaxtonGT05

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To expand a little, you don't "need" hto's or colder plugs right off the bat on a basic setup, somehow that seems to have become the norm over the years. Compression, boost level, fuel type, iat etc will come into play when selecting the best plug heat range and gap for your setup. I have found the 3v likes some heat to make good power so dont feel like you "have" to have colder plugs or colder tsat etc, look at your setup and make a determination based on your goals. I felt like there were drawbacks of having colder or too cold plugs for what the setup needs, namely cold start drivability in cooler weather decrease in mileage etc, not a big deal if its a weekend or drag car, but if it sees regular street use might be a little annoying. In general 8-9psi 450-475hp range on a stock block with 93 or e85, the car seems to perform better with a stock heat range plug gapped appropriately. I would also take a look at the plugs after the setup is up and running and tuned to see if they are too hot or too cold for your setup. You can google or hit up youtube to see how to read a plug. If you have higher iat's with like a twin screw or procharger might want colder range just to keep things safer. I had colder hto's for a bit when I ran 93. When I started running e85 I went back to stock heat range with ht1's car feels better/smoother in the lower rpm range and runs good and makes good power. And I still run 93 with them as well. I run 12psi on 93 with them and 16psi with e85 760rwhp. Keep in mind my setup has ambient iat;s at that power level and motor is 9:1 compression. When I pulled out the ht1's after a year or so to put in a fresh set they all looked great still so stock heat range at .028 gap seems to be appropriate for my setup.

In general 10psi or less on 93 or e85 with decent iat's and stock compression I would keep stock heat range plugs and just check them out make sure every thing is good. If running more boost, more compression or have higher iat's then you can start stepping down to colder heat ranges as needed for the setup. Also the go to gap has become .032, I am a believer in only running the tightest gap you have to on the setup to run good and not get blowout. Car runs smoother with amore complete burn with the wider you can stay on the gap. So if your running 8psi 450hp try a gap in the .034-.036 range and see how she runs. And just gap down as necessary for the setup.

Interesting, yeah I'm all stock motor with Paxton at 9 psi. I haven't noticed any spark blow out. It has popped/backfired really loud twice on a 2-3 shift though with the HT0's and stock in the box gap (.045 I've read). I have pulled the plugs a few times, and the porcelain is bright white however it does have black deposits on it. Definitely reads closer to lean than rich from pictures I've looked at, which makes sense considering my lean AFR's. The electrode seems to be wearing evenly but it does look to have a difference graying color on the tip of it. I do like that the colder plug should help against detonation which I'm assuming I've been having with my fueling issue.

Looks like I'll be gapping the HT0s down to about .035 depending on where they're at now, and then the wire upgrade to help the pump out. Seems a little ridiculous the kit didn't mention any of this as it all seems to be a pretty big deal to get right.
 
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46addict

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And I still run 93 with them as well. I run 12psi on 93 with them and 16psi with e85 760rwhp. Keep in mind my setup has ambient iat;s at that power level and motor is 9:1 compression. When I pulled out the ht1's after a year or so to put in a fresh set they all looked great still so stock heat range at .028 gap seems to be appropriate for my setup.

Very nice. Are you running the s&h kit? Does that system retain power steering and AC?
 

JeremyH

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Yeah I had the twin kit on the car, going back to a single which is more my preference for my goals for the car. Yeah my kits don't delete or relocate anything. Turbo/hotside piping is all out of the engine bay under the car, turbo(s) are low mounted.
 

PaxtonGT05

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For anyone looking at fuel pump boosters, VMP has a plug-n-play kit for 05-09 which is pretty cool.
 

PaxtonGT05

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Update:

Installed the wire upgrade. It did help duty cycles and I'm only at like 82% at redline, however I'm STILL losing fuel pressure and therefore running lean and not getting rich enough per the commanded AFR. Very confused. The Carquest pump still did better in lower RPMS. It was at .83 lambda (12.2 AFR) off the hit then rise to like .87 lambda. This DW pump with the wire upgrade is at like .85 lambda in low rpms and sometimes will dip to .84 by redline and it should be the commanded .80. Very strange and aggravating. Thinking at this point my pump hat may be an issue or the DW pumps just suck but this is the second one after the first died. I doubt two bad ones in a row.
 

Heaten m90

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Possibly you're running out of pump...

When I was pushing 401hp/395tq I was at 89% duty cycle.. with a Walbro 400LPH pump.
What are you making for power?

Stock wiring?? Im making 450whp on e85 with less duty cycle with the walbro 400
 

PaxtonGT05

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Update:

Installed a Walbro 400, and along with the wire upgrade duty cycles are looking great, only 72% at WOT. Still running lean. I've now got Lito on the case, he seems to think it is a tuning issue. I really hope it is, pretty sick of chasing parts. Should have had Lito look at it at the beginning like a few suggested, I just thought the vendor that sold the "complete kit" with the "custom tune" included would have had it together a bit better. We will see what happens when Lito does his stuff. Fingers crossed it's a tuning issue and not some mechanical gremlin still sight unseen.
 

BruceH

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Update:

Installed a Walbro 400, and along with the wire upgrade duty cycles are looking great, only 72% at WOT. Still running lean. I've now got Lito on the case, he seems to think it is a tuning issue. I really hope it is, pretty sick of chasing parts. Should have had Lito look at it at the beginning like a few suggested, I just thought the vendor that sold the "complete kit" with the "custom tune" included would have had it together a bit better. We will see what happens when Lito does his stuff. Fingers crossed it's a tuning issue and not some mechanical gremlin still sight unseen.

It will work out for you. Not sure who the vendor is but if they don't ask for datalogs and provide the livelink files to do the logging you probably don't want to use them IMO.
 

PaxtonGT05

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Thanks again everyone for the suggestions. Lito fixed the lean issue and the car pulls strong. I would have thought the tune would have been on point originally but there's my lesson of not trusting canned tunes for a supercharged car, and from a company that was unwilling to really help with my issue. Oh well, I ended up upgrading the fuel pump and wires in the process so that is a good thing overall form what the kit offered. And now I know that somebody with a lot of knowledge has monitored my parameters. Now I just have to keep the bottom end and clutch/transmission together! haha
 

JConde78537

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PaxtonGT05 who fixed you fueling issue, i have a 2018 mustang gt w/ Roush 2.65 TVS, with triple Pump E85 return fuel system, and I am receiving the same issues.
 

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