Code P0345 & P0349 alt issue

I just installed a brand new Powermaster alternator and it gives me the known P0345 & P0349 code.

The shop swapped the sensors and code stays the same so its not the sensor.

I can clear the code and it doesn't come back as long as I don't shut off the engine and restart.

The engine sounds great while driving and at idle. So we think there is nothing wrong with the cams.

What can I try to get rid of those codes.

Any suggestions?

If I remember correctly those are two of the codes I got when I pinched my transmission and O2 sensor harness between the engine block and bellhousing. Crushing the wires grounded out the circuit and blew fuze 47. If I remember correctly the cam sensors, evap system sensors, O2 sensors, and some other stuff all share the same circuit and have common power feed or ground feed wires all tied to fuze 47.

I'm not saying you crushed your wiring harness, but check all of your wiring to see if anything is frayed or pinched and check fuze 47. After I realized I crushed the harness, I made the repairs to the wiring then still got the codes just like you are. I thought I fried all of my sensors when I crushed the harness and was getting ready to drop some coin and replace everything. Then by searching this forum I found out about fuze 47. If something short circuits, fuze 47 does its job and blows.

Year of vehicle? What was the original problem that prompted the alternator swap? Codes present before the alternator swap? What is the DC output and AC voltage ripple on the alternator output pf the current new unut?

redfirepearlgt said:

Year of vehicle? What was the original problem that prompted the alternator swap? Codes present before the alternator swap? What is the DC output and AC voltage ripple on the alternator output pf the current new unut?

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2005 GT

I got a "check charging system" warning on the dash so the alt needed to be replaced. When I measured during the warning I only got 12V so it was not charging. After a couple of minutes it seemed to engage and start to charge but I didn't trusted it.

The codes were there also with the previous PA performance Alternator.

The alt story in short:

The OEM started to give me the check charging system warning so I swapped it for the 130amp PA performance one.
Did some upgrades to the cooling system (extra fans etc) after engine swap and decided to upgrade the alt to have some more juice. That 200amp PA performance worked perfect (no DTC codes) untill for some unknown reason the shaft broke and damaged my timing cover.
The replacement, new, 200amp PA performance worked (charged) but gave me instantly those same DTC's and 6 month later the extra charging warning.

rocky61201 said:

If I remember correctly those are two of the codes I got when I pinched my transmission and O2 sensor harness between the engine block and bellhousing. Crushing the wires grounded out the circuit and blew fuze 47. If I remember correctly the cam sensors, evap system sensors, O2 sensors, and some other stuff all share the same circuit and have common power feed or ground feed wires all tied to fuze 47.

I'm not saying you crushed your wiring harness, but check all of your wiring to see if anything is frayed or pinched and check fuze 47. After I realized I crushed the harness, I made the repairs to the wiring then still got the codes just like you are. I thought I fried all of my sensors when I crushed the harness and was getting ready to drop some coin and replace everything. Then by searching this forum I found out about fuze 47. If something short circuits, fuze 47 does its job and blows.

Click to expand...

I'll check it out

philip_mustang said:

I'll check it out

Click to expand...

Fuze 47 isn't blown so that can't be the problem

My guess is that you have lost a cam phaser. If the problem stayed with the same then its obviously not a sensor and the sensors are working correctly therefore the next step would be to isolate down to the cam phaser on bank two or the cam phaser proportional controller.

How many miles are on the engine?

In my experience if a phaser goes bad the engine doesn't keep running good. It pretty much runs and sounds like shit.

FWIW, I got those codes and a check charging system warning before. Turned out the rectifier was going out. The alternator was still putting out the correct voltage, but it would occasionally put out an A/C voltage instead of D/C.

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01yellerCobra said:

In my experience if a phaser goes bad the engine doesn't keep running good. It pretty much runs and sounds like shit.

FWIW, I got those codes and a check charging system warning before. Turned out the rectifier was going out. The alternator was still putting out the correct voltage, but it would occasionally put out an A/C voltage instead of D/C.

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I am assuming the OP has verified minimal AC ripple across the output of the alternator with a multimeter and knows that more than about 750mv AC is an indication that the rectifer circuit is failing. Therefore through the troubleshooting that has been done one can only conclude cam phaser OR com phaser proportional control valve on bank 2. The problem when swapping the sensors stayed at bank two.

I to have lost a cam phser. Mine was church mouse quiet until the engine was rev'd a few times. Then it banged like crazy with massive engine miss and lost power and low idle. Shut the car off and restart and the problem would go away and sit at idle happy as a lark until you popped the throttle again a few times. So they can fail differently. Doesn't mean this is the problem but the codes are pointing to bank 2 repeatedly. IF it were an AC issue I would expect more erroneous CEL's as AC will reek havoc on all DC systems which can cause all kinds of strangeness.

best of luck OP.

AND 01YELLOW COBRA! Have a Carne Asada Burrito for me at PB on Mission BLVD just north of Garnett at Romero's if they are still there. If not find a Robertos and enjoy for me. Afterwards go watch a sunset at Wind and Sea. I miss the heck out of San Diego. Lived there 7 years.

redfirepearlgt said:

AND 01YELLOW COBRA! Have a Carne Asada Burrito for me at PB on Mission BLVD just north of Garnett at Romero's if they are still there. If not find a Robertos and enjoy for me. Afterwards go watch a sunset at Wind and Sea. I miss the heck out of San Diego. Lived there 7 years.

Click to expand...

Lol. I know the place you're talking about. I've been there before and it was pretty good. I tend to hit up Palominos. Was stationed here in 1999 and haven't really wanted to leave.


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Philip, as mentioned, check the voltage when running. You've done it before!
If the voltage when idling is under 13v, especially around 12.5-ish or so, you'll get the P034x codes.

I have experienced the same problem on my 2006 GT. I actually went through 3 bad alternators before I got a good OEM replacement...seems to be a very common issue these days with rebuilt alts.

You should be seeing 14.2 to 14.4 vdc with eng on..and idling. As noted b4, switch the dvm to read AC voltage..and check for ac ripple. With eng off, after a few mins the 14.X will drop down to 12.XX

If the AC ripple is excessive, you will eventually damage the battery. Take your dc /ac readings across the battery terminals.