Biggest front tire size?

mavisky

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That's going to be very tight without a small 5mm spacer.

I have a 20x10 +48mm and 285/30-20's and the tires/rim are a few mm from rubbing the strut as is.
 

Wicked GT

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I ran 19x10 MMD Zevens (+45mm backspace) with 285/35/19's with no issues.

edit: I didn't see you were running 18's... as Mavisky stated that will be a tight fit on the strut.
 

Tungsten_GT

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What about with a good alignment?
I would definitely want to tuck the biggest tire possible. Without fender flares or anything of the sort.
 

06 T-RED S/C GT

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What about with a good alignment?
I would definitely want to tuck the biggest tire possible. Without fender flares or anything of the sort.

The larger the tire, the higher offset is what you want for tucking under the wheel well.. I can tell you that in a 20" wheel, you can run a 305-30-20 tire in the rear on a 20x10" wheel provided the offset is at least +40mm with no problem..

As for a 18x10" wheel and tire combo are concerned, I'm not really very familiar with running 18's.. Perhaps someone who's running a 18" setup can chime in and answer your questions..
 

Doug M

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I ran a 285-40-18, just fine with 18×10 Roush wheels up front.
 

06 T-RED S/C GT

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Doug,

Do you think Tungsten can run 295-35-18's on his Roush 18x10's in the front or would that be considered as too tall of a sidewall that might cause rubbing/clearance issues ?


Thanks, Rocky
 

Pentalab

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I use 18" x 10" on all 4 x corners...and all 4 have a 45mm offset. 285-40-18 rubber on the rear...and 275-40-18 on the front. On spec, I used a HR 3mm hubcentric spacer on the fronts only. Loads of space on the inside to the strut....like almost 3/8". I can get my finger in there with no issue. Also used steeda HD strut mounts, which allow for +/- 1 deg of camber. And set both fronts to -1 deg.

Effective front offset is now 45-3 = 42mm. Tires are neatly tucked inside..(just) the front wheel wells (ditto with rears).

You don't require the 3mm spacer.... but in my case, the spokes were getting a little too close to the calipers for my liking.

This is on a 2010 with oem 12.4" size front rotors. (powerslots). I use open end lug nuts...which appear to have a lot more threads vs the oem lug nuts. Funny thing is.... even with the 3mm spacers installed...one per front wheel, the end of the oem wheel stud is dead flush to the end of the open end lug nut threads. I would not use a spacer thicker than 5mm on the fronts.. Any thicker, and I'd use longer ARP studs, but that is a pita..and they are 3" long..and require the use of open end lug nuts.

However, on the rears, ( which have NO spacers).... the ends of the oem wheel studs are not flush to the ends of the open end lug nuts..... 2 threads of the open end lug nuts can be seen...go figure. ( I was expecting the fronts to have less thread engagement..vs rears....due to the 3mm spacers being used on the fronts). My conclusion is... the oem front wheel studs are longer than the rear wheel studs. I will measure both front and rears this fall, with digital calipers, (with front spacers removed) when I swap to the winter tire /rim set up.

A 295-35-18 is 26.13" tall...which is shorter than a 285-40-18 (26.97")
 
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KonaBlueBryar

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That's going to be very tight without a small 5mm spacer.

I have a 20x10 +48mm and 285/30-20's and the tires/rim are a few mm from rubbing the strut as is.

ive got the same offset as you, with a 5mm spacer. I run a 275/35/20 and rub my coilovers, but then again my camber is horrid haha
 

mavisky

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ive got the same offset as you, with a 5mm spacer. I run a 275/35/20 and rub my coilovers, but then again my camber is horrid haha

Unless your camber is being adjusted with a set of camber bolts at the actual mounting point between the shock absorber and the hub, the amount of camber has no effect on the distance as the wheel, hub, and coilover assembly are adjusted where the strut meets the chassis at the upper shock mount.

If you adjust it at the upper shock mount then the relationship between the wheel and strut doesn't change with camber settings. I've actually used a combination of the two to gain clearance. Get a set of camber bolts and set them to max positive camber. This will tilt the top of the tire away from the shock assembly as you are changing the relationship between the hub and the shock. Then use your upper strut mounts to dial your camber back in by going further negative than you normally would because the camber bolt at the mounting flange is counteracting some of your change at the upper strut mount.
 

Tungsten_GT

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Already on coilovers, don't need camber bolts, running about 1.5 degrees of positive camber. Want a big beefy tire all around, anyone that can chime in that's ran a 295 up front?
 

Norm Peterson

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Already on coilovers, don't need camber bolts, running about 1.5 degrees of positive camber.
You sure about it being positive?


Want a big beefy tire all around, anyone that can chime in that's ran a 295 up front?
My experience - you'll probably rub the strut unless you're running something like Cortex's struts that provide extra wheel and tire clearance. Or run a thin spacer with the FRPP hubs (it's getting the ARP studs that really matters here).

My track tires are only 285/35's, but they're mounted on 11" wide wheels which brings their actual as-mounted section width out very close to 295mm. I have 1.2mm strut clearance at both the tire and the wheel, and it took a very thin spacer (0.025") to get that much on one side even though the other side measured the same clearance without any spacing. Things like actual strut diameter and offset to the strut/knuckle mounting holes are critical unless you're willing to let more than just the tire sidewall and the outer flange of the wheel peek out past the sheetmetal. My car has been lowered half an inch since these pictures were taken, which would make the relation between the tire and the sheetmetal a little more distinct, but I haven't taken that picture yet.


On edit, at the very least plan on running more strut-side clearance because a 295/35 on 10" is going to flex more than a 285/35 on 11".

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Norm
 
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Norm Peterson

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Nope.

If you put 0.021" and 0.022" feeler gauge blades together, they'll slip right through the gap. 0.022" + 0.023" puts up a little fight.

That's not the smallest wheel clearance I've worked with . . .


Norm
 

AlbertD

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I'm running 295/35/18 NT05s up front on 18x10 drifts with stock style suspension (KR struts with 1.5 drop). No rubbing issues that I've noticed.

I've also run 275/40 and 285/40s up front on the same 18x10 drifts with no rubbing.

Don't know what the offset is off the top of my head for the Drifts so I'm not sure how that compares to the roush wheels as far as clearance is concerned.
 

TGR96

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Nope.

If you put 0.021" and 0.022" feeler gauge blades together, they'll slip right through the gap. 0.022" + 0.023" puts up a little fight.

That's not the smallest wheel clearance I've worked with . . .


Norm

Wow, that's crazy! And no rubbing/wheel-to-strut body contact whatsoever? No flexing of the strut at all? If not, that's amazing. Well done, sir. :clap:
 

06 T-RED S/C GT

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I'm running 295/35/18 NT05s up front on 18x10 drifts with stock style suspension (KR struts with 1.5 drop). No rubbing issues that I've noticed.

I've also run 275/40 and 285/40s up front on the same 18x10 drifts with no rubbing.

Don't know what the offset is off the top of my head for the Drifts so I'm not sure how that compares to the roush wheels as far as clearance is concerned.

IIRC the roush wheels are 20x9.5" with 45mm offset that also require their Mustang steering rack stop kit when using Roush 20" wheels..

http://www.roushperformance.com/parts/Mustang-Steering-Rack-Stops-Clamps-Kit-2005-2010.html
 

Pentalab

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IIRC the roush wheels are 20x9.5" with 45mm offset that also require their Mustang steering rack stop kit when using Roush 20" wheels..

http://www.roushperformance.com/parts/Mustang-Steering-Rack-Stops-Clamps-Kit-2005-2010.html

Roush wheels are 10" wide with 45mm offset. But that's a moot point, and the steering stops are required on their 20" wheels..required so the wheels don't smack the inner wheel wells. A 9.5" wheel would require no where near 45mm et. A 9" wheel only requires a 30mm et.
 

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