Amp trigger wire question

cop on my back

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I have installed a JL stealth box in my girlfriend's 2014 Mustang and I ran the amp trigger wire to the passenger side kick panel area. Where do you tap into for the switched power? I am hoping there is one that works when the stereo is on.

This car had the basic stereo, no factory sub in the trunk.
 

groundpounder

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If you want to have some fun, tie into the brake light wire. Sub will only come on when her foot is on the brake! We all know that the coolest person at the stop light is the one with the trunk vibrating and the license plate rattling to some serious bass! After you leave the light who cares!

If you're serious about having all that bass from key on to time delay off you can either wire to the back of the head unit or try using the window motor circuit. It's keyed on and delayed off just like the radio. I don't have the wiring diagram for the 11 to 14 cars.
 

cop on my back

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I didn't want to pull head unit but I will if I have to. One would think a Google search would provide the answer to this question, but I have yet to find a solid lead!

Thanks for the input.
 

redfirepearlgt

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I took a moment to review the Shaker 500 setup for your application. I could find no switched output that would enable the amplifier at radio "ON". Simply enabling the amplifier with a key on engine source is not the correct answer either. There is a device available from Audio Control called an LC2. This device will allow you to feed a speaker level input into the device giving you audio RCA low outs. In addition it is triggered by sensing the speaker level feed when the radio is turned on, this in turn provides you the remote enable signal needed to engage your amplifier properly AFTER the radio has been commanded on and off PROPERLY again when the radio is turned off. The price of doing it correctly is $100. The LC2 has the remote point which you would wire the remote signal wire from the amplifier into.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_161LC...-Black.html?search=Audio_Control_LC2&skipvs=T

Best of luck to you.
 
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RocketcarX

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I found a switched 12v source behind the radio (basically the accessory 12v) to control the amp when I added a sub to my Shaker 500. There is no logical reason to worry about using a "key on" power source for an amp turn on. In no way can it hurt anything.
 

redfirepearlgt

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I found a switched 12v source behind the radio (basically the accessory 12v) to control the amp when I added a sub to my Shaker 500. There is no logical reason to worry about using a "key on" power source for an amp turn on. In no way can it hurt anything.

It isn't standard procedure to engage the amplifier before the input signal is present. Ask Crutchfield or any reputable Car stereo installation dealer. Speaker protection is what it is about. Basic Audio 101. There is the right way and there there is Primitive Pete's way.

Feel free Op to choose your way. You can do the job right or you can primitive Pete the job. Doesn't matter one bit to me, but lets at least be honest and profess the proper way here vice the back yard primitive way. I am simply trying to inform you of the correct way. Do as you wish. AT least you now have a proper way and a backyard mechanic way.
 

RocketcarX

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It isn't standard procedure to engage the amplifier before the input signal is present. Ask Crutchfield or any reputable Car stereo installation dealer. Speaker protection is what it is about. Basic Audio 101. There is the right way and there there is Primitive Pete's way.

Feel free Op to choose your way. You can do the job right or you can primitive Pete the job. Doesn't matter one bit to me, but lets at least be honest and profess the proper way here vice the back yard primitive way. I am simply trying to inform you of the correct way. Do as you wish. AT least you now have a proper way and a backyard mechanic way.

Could you elaborate about what makes the key on trigger "primitive" or incorrect? What does it harm? It's the same as the amp being on with the volume set to zero...literally.
For all of this one could just buy an amp with "signal sense" and it will auto turn on when it sees voltage through the RCA cables.
 

redfirepearlgt

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Could you elaborate about what makes the key on trigger "primitive" or incorrect? What does it harm? It's the same as the amp being on with the volume set to zero...literally.
For all of this one could just buy an amp with "signal sense" and it will auto turn on when it sees voltage through the RCA cables.

I am not aware of amplifiers having signal sense on RCA level inputs to engage the amp. There would be no need for a remote wire in that case. But maybe stereo technology has surpassed me since I haven't dabbled in it for a few years which would then make me the antiquated prime donas in this case. I am only aware of speaker level inputs which allow signal sense to turn on the amplifier and that option fully depends on the amp, its not standard like RCA live level inputs. A signal sense amp with speaker level inputs would be fine. The amplifier is then triggered by the radio or audio device being turned on which then engages the amplifier to power on under a slight delay. When an amplifier is simply on all the time with key on power any surge from the audio device feeding it will be amplified and fed to the speaker. This is usually heard as a loud bump or popping sound at turn on.

In the old days of power boosters with graphic equalizers and shaft mount radios (before higher tech stuff came out) you turned on your radio then turned on your graphic booster EQ. This was to protect the speakers from getting damaged.

Later came the remote trigger on many head units (stock and after market) feature which was used before that time only to drive a retractable power antenna. Booster EQ's and other similar devices started giving way to amplifier systems which incorporated the power antenna trigger concept. That generated the "REMOTE" wire on head units. Today with better head units speaker level inputs with signal sensing to turn on the amplifier are available, and as you mentioned possibly RCA level input sensing but I am unaware of that technology, which would be a very nice asset if it exists and eliminates another fricking wire.

Damage can be done to speakers when an audio unit turns on and surges. Second just having the amplifier on even with no signal going through it generates heat in the amplifier (even a class D) even though no input signal is present. It's about protecting the investment. JL Audio is good stuff. It's not cheap stuff either. So its best to protect one's investment.

My first stereo upgrade was an 8-track player. My last stereo system was commanded by an Eclipse 8053 (16v outs) with Diamond Audio 5 series amps and components all biamped. A sealed 12" Boston acoustic generated the bass. I've since grown tired of doing stereo finding that going fast is much more fun and that today's factory systems are much better than the OEM crap that was in dashes in the late 70's - late 90's.

Hope this helps explain why simply key on power for an amp remote signal isn't a good idea. You may get away with it. But it does put speakers at risk as well as work the amplifier even when it's not being used. Heat is the enemy of electronics in every form.

Have a great weekend.
 
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cavero

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If you have a powered antenna like the '10 and up cars, that would work, I used it on a '13 Focus I used to have for a DD. Not sure about the delay on the turn-on though. The '05-09's are just passive so someone would have to find another source.
 

redfirepearlgt

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If you have a powered antenna like the '10 and up cars, that would work, I used it on a '13 Focus I used to have for a DD. Not sure about the delay on the turn-on though. The '05-09's are just passive so someone would have to find another source.

You are correct. The 14 does have an antenna wire. I thought it had been done away with. The function of that remote signal used to be to power a retracting antenna. Since that is not the case on the 13/14 I assume then it is to power a signal booster in the antenna possibly. But it certianly could be used to trigger an amplifier.

The wire is CME44 a Yellow/w green stripe wire on connector C290D pin 5 coming off the back of the audio head unit according to the prints.

Yip I figured that wire signal was no longer in use as it would have been dated since antennas have gotten shorter or hidden altogether these days. Guess there is still a need for that signal after all.
 

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