Single stage paint?

MIKE93SVT

Savior of Junk
Joined
Jul 14, 2010
Posts
141
Reaction score
0
Location
Hawaii
Looking for experienced advice:

Short and to the point details:

2010 GT500, performance white

Car was wrecked and poorly repaired. I bought it and am fixing it correctly. It was spray painted black and then wrapped 2 years ago.

What's the best option to attempt to save the original paint?

Test area was 800 grit to remove the black. Then 1000, 1500, and 2000. No cut or polish done yet. I have a DA buffer and am going to buy a full speed polisher to complete the job.

Are these a single stage paint?

Any other advice to tackle this?

Thanks
Mike









 

mrt2you

forum member
Joined
Jan 20, 2014
Posts
542
Reaction score
27
Location
new berlin
I am a PPG certified painter with over 25 years of experience.

here is my opinion. I really can't give exact info because I would have to physically see the car to get a better idea of what I am looking at.

it's base coat clear coat from the factory.
you are sanded and ready to buff now. buff away and see what happens.

in my opinion you will have to repaint the car to get the white back. there is about a 10% chance of saving the factory paint. I can almost guarantee you will go thru a edge when buffing.

when removing the black, the most important part is on how the car was prepped before it was painted black. also chances are someone probably sanded a edge when prepping for the black. you don't know how it was prepped so you wandering in the dark without a flash light.

I would get some lacquer thinner on a rag and soak on the black paint and see if it wrinkles up. thinner shouldn't hurt the factory paint, if you don't leave the thinner rag on the car to long. IF the black wrinkels up you MIGHT have a chance to save the white.
the factory clear coat should be right at 2.0- 2.5 mills thick. when you sand like you described you remove at least 1 mil of clear and buffing will remove about .5 of a mil. you need 2.0 mils of clear for long term durability. so you will be to thin to begin with before you hit the road.

the hardest part will be by the edges so I would start there. the middle of the panels are easy.

hope this info helps and good luck.
 

MIKE93SVT

Savior of Junk
Joined
Jul 14, 2010
Posts
141
Reaction score
0
Location
Hawaii
Thanks for the tips.

A roller is not an option. I'll just paint the whole car if necessary

Mike
 

MIKE93SVT

Savior of Junk
Joined
Jul 14, 2010
Posts
141
Reaction score
0
Location
Hawaii
I think it's time to admit defeat. The outside paint laughed at laquer thinner and didn't budge. It did wipe off in the door jamb though. The door jam also revealed scratches underneath that must be their "prep" work before spray painting the car. The same scratches are on the spoiler.

Waiting for a huge shipment from Tasca for the front end. Then yanking the motor and getting it to the frame shop to replace the radiator support and make sure it's straight. Then I'll need to see how much more money I can spare and decide what to do about the paint.

So what's the ballpark for a full respray? I'll strip the entire car down to the shell.

Thanks
Mike




 

Wes06

forum member
Joined
Jan 21, 2012
Posts
5,383
Reaction score
59
whoever did that shit paint needs a punch in the dick
 

mrt2you

forum member
Joined
Jan 20, 2014
Posts
542
Reaction score
27
Location
new berlin
So what's the ballpark for a full respray? I'll strip the entire car down to the shell.

Thanks
Mike

depending on what you have to do in the jambs figure around 5-7K for a good complete paint job would be a nice number to start at. price is for Milwaukee area body shops, our labor rate is $58 hr.
if you take it to a paint manufacturers certified shop your paint job will have a warranty also.
I would recommend removing the ALL of the glass for a nice paint job. a quality glass shop can remove windshields and back glass without breakage very easily these days.

I can get you contact info on getting replacement decals for under hood and door jambs if you can't get them from ford.
 
Last edited:

MIKE93SVT

Savior of Junk
Joined
Jul 14, 2010
Posts
141
Reaction score
0
Location
Hawaii
thanks for the input. will be stripping the car down to a bare shell for paint. found someone to work with and should be good to go. waiting for the structural parts to arrive and figure out this hood project.

and the decal hook up would be greatly appreciated

Mike
 

mrt2you

forum member
Joined
Jan 20, 2014
Posts
542
Reaction score
27
Location
new berlin
here is the decal place.

http://www.ecsvin.com/

I work in a VW dealer bodyshop and they don't make VW decals so I can't personally vouch for them.
my friend used them when I rebuilt his GT500 last year.
he took pics of all the decals, emailed them to ECS and they made new ones for him in 2 days. they looked perfect but I heard the decals are $$$. they were his only choice because for discontinued the decals for mustangs.
 

Latest posts

Support us!

Support Us - Become A Supporting Member Today!

Click Here For Details

Sponsor Links

Banner image
Back
Top