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Old 06-11-2017, 08:59 PM   #61
ksack
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Whoop got the motor and trans pulled today! Biggest pain was doing it myself. Took an hour to get it out with constantly having to move between the hoist and the jack under the trans. Second biggest pain was the motor mounts. Pax side was a breeze. 2 bolts from underneath with the impact and done in seconds. Driver's side is a different story...3 bolts from the top. It has one of those stupid plates underneath with the nuts welded on. Can only access 1 of the 3 bolts without taking the exhaust off. I decided to pull the 3 bolts that connect the mount to the block and lift it enough to get access to the bolts on top. Sorry I don't have any pictures of that.

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Click the image to open in full size.


Tried test fitting the motor and the pic shows as far in as I could get it. The old steering box gets in the way....along with the headers being wider than the frame rail. Can't wait to do some fab work to fix that problem! Made a list on some cardboard to keep track of everything I need to do, Roadkill style. I'm sure there's plenty more little things I forgot. My buddy also gave me crap for working in flip flops and accused me of being Freiburger. I prefer just hosing off my feet than having my shoes soaked in coolant and oil. And I get a wicked flip flop tan too! Up next is going to be modifying the frame and crossmembers to get this stuff to fit!

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

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Old 06-18-2017, 11:17 PM   #62
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Good progress this weekend. Here is how I left it Saturday after about 6 hours of work.
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Cut out the motor mounts. Took about 2 hours for the 2 of them. Solid rubber with steel supporting structure inside of it. Definitely attached before the crossmember was riveted to the frame because you cant get enough leverage up in there. The pipe I have is too long so I couldn't even try to unbolt them. Just attacked them from the side with a grinder and that's that. Removed the power steering rack and connecting rods. Removed brake booster, AC compressor and headers. Test fit initially had me stopping short of the rear suspension I-beam with the oil pan and I called it a day there. Below is a picture of the oil pan failing to clear the crossmember and I-beams. Next pic is to show the clearance between the heads and the brake master cylinder. I suspected I'd have clearance issues with power brakes so I've already done my homework on manual brakes.

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Click the image to open in full size.

Put in a few more hours today. Removed the rest of the steering column all the way up to the wheel. Cut away some excess material in the trans tunnel and hammered at it a bit to get clearance for the trans. Motor slides in nicely with the headers removed. The headers are going to have to be modified so that it exits along the frame with the flanges perpendicular to the frame for clearance. Final problem for the day is motor alignment. The previous drivetrain was offset to the pax side about 2 inches for fuel tank clearance so the crossmember up front isn't centered. I'm able to get the motor to within 1.25 inches of center but that's as far as she'll go (alternator hits frame and trans hits tunnel). Did the math and if my fitment is true, I'll have a 1 degree lateral pinion angle in the drivetrain. This works fine so that if the vertical pinion ever drops to zero, I'll still have some load on the ujoints. Project for the week is to get some quotes and pro advice on what kind of draftshaft to throw in this sucker. I measured it out to 64.5 inches. Once I have that driveshaft in, I can set the pinion angle on the rear and make some motor mounts. Here is how I left the motor sitting today.

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Old 06-19-2017, 08:15 AM   #63
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Fits better than I though it would. My brother put coilovers on the front of his Ranger. It was surprisingly easy after he torched off the coil cups and made mounts. It allowed a fully adjustable coil over to drop right in. Truck drives amazing even with no front sway bar. It also gave him precious room for the steering shaft and his exhaust.

I will try to get a picture if you want to see what he did.
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Old 06-19-2017, 07:36 PM   #64
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Quote:
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Fits better than I though it would. My brother put coilovers on the front of his Ranger. It was surprisingly easy after he torched off the coil cups and made mounts. It allowed a fully adjustable coil over to drop right in. Truck drives amazing even with no front sway bar. It also gave him precious room for the steering shaft and his exhaust.

I will try to get a picture if you want to see what he did.
That'd be great! I too was surprised how well it fit. I thought I was going to have to custom fab a new crossmember
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Old 06-19-2017, 08:30 PM   #65
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He's putting it on the road next week so I should be able to get a pic or two.

He's running a 418W. It ran 11.17 prior to this most recent refresh/rebuild.
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Old 06-20-2017, 12:06 AM   #66
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You know what kind of suspension he's running in the rear?
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Old 06-20-2017, 08:11 AM   #67
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You know what kind of suspension he's running in the rear?
Of course. I assisted him with the build.

He installed the leaf springs and hangers from an Explorer. Which put the springs directly under and in line with the frame. This was the straight forward part. Next, he looked at Cal-Trac bars, but didn't like that they pulled on the springs so he redesigned them to instead push up on the frame in front of front hangers and he made them adjustable so he could have one side pre-load to level the truck. It works, because with only minimal tuning he was 60 footing in the very low 1.5's off foot braking. The transbrake never worked right at the track, but we suspect that it would 60' even better. He has a new valve body to address this issue too.

I will get some pictures of the rear suspension too.
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Old 06-21-2017, 12:59 PM   #68
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It sounds like you attempted to reduce the crank centerline offset from 2" to as little as you could get. I'm kind of curious why. Moving the engine over a couple of inches is fine. It will gain a lot of brake and steering clearance that you apparently need! And it doesn't affect driveline angles as long as you have opposite / equal output and input vectors.

I'm saying this because as I read your update, I envision you are maybe doing the scenario pictured in the bottom right. I hope I just read it wrong.

Love the project, thanks for the updates!

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Old 06-22-2017, 12:27 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjm73 View Post
Of course. I assisted him with the build.

He installed the leaf springs and hangers from an Explorer. Which put the springs directly under and in line with the frame. This was the straight forward part. Next, he looked at Cal-Trac bars, but didn't like that they pulled on the springs so he redesigned them to instead push up on the frame in front of front hangers and he made them adjustable so he could have one side pre-load to level the truck. It works, because with only minimal tuning he was 60 footing in the very low 1.5's off foot braking. The transbrake never worked right at the track, but we suspect that it would 60' even better. He has a new valve body to address this issue too.

I will get some pictures of the rear suspension too.
Awesome! I'm working with smith racecraft to get assassin bars built (basically adjustable caltracs). Glad to hear it is working for him so hopefully I'll get similar results. I'm using the stock leafs just for the simplicity, but the rear end is from an exploder.

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Originally Posted by 46Tbird View Post
It sounds like you attempted to reduce the crank centerline offset from 2" to as little as you could get. I'm kind of curious why. Moving the engine over a couple of inches is fine. It will gain a lot of brake and steering clearance that you apparently need! And it doesn't affect driveline angles as long as you have opposite / equal output and input vectors.

I'm saying this because as I read your update, I envision you are maybe doing the scenario pictured in the bottom right. I hope I just read it wrong.

Love the project, thanks for the updates!

Click the image to open in full size.
Top right actually. I was able to move it to get about an inch off center so that's how I'm getting the 1 degree of lateral pinion. The hope was to get it centered to work with only vertical angles but the alternator hits the frame and centering would require cutting the frame. Going to work with what I have for now. I certainly appreciate the sanity checking! Catching mistakes now being they are permanent is the goal!
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