Should I attempt to change spark plugs myself?

LordBritish · Apr 4, 2017

travelers said:
Check around and see if you can have access to the removal tool incase you brake one. They really work good and it might save you a tow job and pro doing the same thing. I have broken a few on a 5.4 and the tool works great.

I might buy a Lisle plug removal tool. I can always return it for a refund if I don't use it.

I will say a prayer to Allah, Jehovah, and Krishna before attempting this.

AndrewNagle · Apr 4, 2017

LordBritish said:
I might buy a Lisle plug removal tool. I can always return it for a refund if I don't use it.

I will say a prayer to Allah, Jehovah, and Krishna before attempting this.

Great idea

06redgt · Apr 4, 2017

I changed mine at 75K when I installed the procharger. Filled the spark plug bores with aerokroil up to the top of the hex for the spark plug, then backed up each spark plug 1/8-1/4 turn. Let soak for a while (I let it soak while I installed the supercharger, like 8 hours). When I finally went to remove I worked each one out slowly, going back and forth. Didn't break any. I think that was the first time the plugs were removed on the car.

LordBritish · Apr 9, 2017

What fluid should I use to loosen the spark plugs?

BP Blaster
Sea Foam Deep Creep
Carb cleaner
Aerokroil

I've heard good things about Sea Foam Deep Creep

phattyfat · Apr 9, 2017

Nothing penetrates better than aerokroil

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Wes06 · Apr 9, 2017

I used a 50/50 of ATF and acetone, not bad

AndrewNagle · Apr 9, 2017

phattyfat said:
Nothing penetrates better than aerokroil

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good luck with AeroKroil

groundpounder · Apr 10, 2017

I used PB Blaster. Well, I had it on hand if I needed it. I did mine at 20k and followed the TSB. Mine came out with a couple squeaks but nothing broke. Used a little copper antiseize when I installed the new plugs.

06 T-RED S/C GT · Apr 10, 2017

groundpounder said:
I used PB Blaster. Well, I had it on hand if I needed it. I did mine at 20k and followed the TSB. Mine came out with a couple squeaks but nothing broke. Used a little copper antiseize when I installed the new plugs.

Unless your running Brisk racing plugs, it's not recommended to use other than Nickel anti-seize for platinum based spark plugs.. As copper and aluminum don't mix very well together..

05gtowner · Apr 10, 2017

Run it with two bottles of techron through the tank then when you are close to being out of fuel change the plugs on a warm not hot engine. Break them all loose a eighth to quarter of a turn then fill them up to the porcelain with deep creep. It is a decarbonizer. That is what makes the plugs stick. Let it sit over night then hit them with a impact.

LordBritish · Jun 20, 2017

05gtowner said:
Run it with two bottles of techron through the tank then when you are close to being out of fuel change the plugs on a warm not hot engine. Break them all loose a eighth to quarter of a turn then fill them up to the porcelain with deep creep. It is a decarbonizer. That is what makes the plugs stick. Let it sit over night then hit them with a impact.

I'll be attempting this soon. I don't have an impact wrench so I'll be using a normal manual wrench.

Also I heard that I should not exceed some torque level when loosening the plugs. Was that 35 ft-lb max?

Wish me luck folks !

Phil1098 · Jun 20, 2017

I wouldn't hit them with an impact, that could break the ends off pretty easy. Loosen 1/8 of a turn and soak with any listed. I used Deep Creep but don't have the mileage of most. Let the solvent work for several hours and then go slow working them back and forth. Don't start going and then if it gets tight just crank harder, you'll break them. If they start to get tight, run them back in and then back out as many times until they come all the way out.

LordBritish · Jun 20, 2017

Phil1098 said:
I wouldn't hit them with an impact, that could break the ends off pretty easy. Loosen 1/8 of a turn and soak with any listed. I used Deep Creep but don't have the mileage of most. Let the solvent work for several hours and then go slow working them back and forth. Don't start going and then if it gets tight just crank harder, you'll break them. If they start to get tight, run them back in and then back out as many times until they come all the way out.

Do I need to use nickel anti-seize ?

06 T-RED S/C GT · Jun 21, 2017

Yes, Yes and Yes !

LordBritish · Jun 21, 2017

06 T-RED S/C GT said:
Yes, Yes and Yes !

Ok, very good

I think that was a yes, no?

MilehighGS · Jun 21, 2017

Did my own at 72k. 1/4 turn, sprayed PB blaster, let it sit overnight, then turned another 1/2 and sprayed more PB. I did work the plugs back and forth slowly and did not break one.

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Iceman62 · Jun 21, 2017

Guess I'm the NKOTB & have to ask whet's the deal w/removing plugs on these S197 motors? I've wrenched on everything from a Rupp 5-hp minibike, 1940's farm tractors and diesel semi's...are these plugs prone to seizing in the threads?

saleen07gt · Jun 21, 2017

I work on these motors for a living and used to follow the TSB but every now and then one would break off. So what we started to do was an induction service first and then zip them out with a 3/8 impact gun and remember the hotter the better and have not broken one since

86GT351 · Jun 21, 2017

You should be fine. Be confident and don't rush it.

stkjock · Jun 21, 2017

Iceman62 said:
Guess I'm the NKOTB & have to ask whet's the deal w/removing plugs on these S197 motors? I've wrenched on everything from a Rupp 5-hp minibike, 1940's farm tractors and diesel semi's...are these plugs prone to seizing in the threads?

not so much seizing as breaking, many threads on the topic if you take a look, 2 pc design flaw

Should I attempt to change spark plugs myself?

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