So found metal in my oil..

Second oil change and a noticeable amount of metal flakes were found enoguh to make me worry. This will be the second MMR roatating assembly that has had some type of bearing failure before I hit the 1000 mile mark and got a dyno tune.

I pulled the motor and found this on # 5678 heat marks. So I pulled caps and the bearings def have some wear but not catastrophic failure but look at the heat on the back side.... what do you think causes this I'm running MMR oil pump gears

Since I suck at posting pictures here's the direct link to my Photobucket only pics are the bearing ones

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w426/Blake_Burns/D711F49E-26C5-4223-BBE1-B45D3D5CC4B0.jpg

Fuck mmr

Did mmr offer any kind of assistance from the 1st assembly? Have you contacted them about this one. Seems like the opinion on them is the same on this board. What made you pick them the 1 and 2 time.

I'm not tying to bash I'd like someone who has seen this same damage tell me what's going on

Bburns4667 said:

.... what do you think causes this I'm running MMR...

Click to expand...

You answered your own question. Out of spec or wrong components slapped together by retards with blindfolds on. That would be the typical mo. Their Oil pumps are notorious for issues as well.

Y'all are no better than they are for not trying to help and just bashing.

So how does a crank discolor which takes about 400degress outside the journals and the journals look brand new and the bearings look decent... what cause friction to caused the heat to make the crank that hot on the tips... and the big end rod caps aren't discolored either??

I assume the discoloration wasnt there when the motor was put together?

And we've seen enough examples of MMR completely screwing up on their part, then denying it all, saying installers, saying tuners, saying wrong oil, everything to throw the blame off them.

Just bought the parts from them a good machine shop put it together I'm going to send them pictures tomorrow and see what they say. I used 5w20 allot of highway running about 500 miles on it hit boost maybe 4 times to make sure it works 5psi spring on my old hellion 61mm stock engine tune.

Only difference from the stock motor and setup is its forged internals head studs MMR billet gears in oem ford pump and upgraded to a 76mm turbo

I have larger injectors but left them out until the day I tuned. Afr way rich deep in the 10's in boost and it was only enough to make sure the waste gate was working correctly not long pulls. Changed the oil to get ready for my tune next week saw metal pulled the engine found this.. didn't find allot of metal in the pickup or the pan and the bearings look decent so I'm wondering why the discoloration? It didn't look like that before the machine shop just put short block together I put the rest of the motor together

It sounds like you shouldn't use the same machine shop or MMR for your next build. Someone with more experience will chime in on reasons why.

I would say clearances weren't correct. Todd bearings, thrust bearing, main bearings, improperly machined, the list is endless almost...But to have it happen twice.

My second block lasted 30k and several hundred passes before a bearing gave up.

If the shop is just assembling the parts sent and sending it out the door, could be the problem. The 2 motor kits I have bought, ended up buying new bearings after shop measured everything up and they were just not quite properly sized.

weather man said:

If the shop is just assembling the parts sent and sending it out the door, could be the problem. The 2 motor kits I have bought, ended up buying new bearings after shop measured everything up and they were just not quite properly sized.

Click to expand...

I was thinking the shop should have caught any issues with what MMR would have sent. Some shops are really house about documenting the build process and all the clearances. Some just assemble and say that it met with specs.