Should I attempt to change spark plugs myself?

Phil1098

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Do I need to change the engine oil after completing this?

Some say the carb cleaner (deep creep in my case) will mess up your engine oil.

Don't fill the plug hole with the stuff, just keep it below the hex. You don't need to change the oil if you just put that much in.
 

LordBritish

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I intend to put some dielectric grease on the inside of the tip of the boot where it touches the plugs.

Does that sound like a good plan?
 

Iceman62

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For whatever reason Ford spec'ed a 2 piece "long reach" plug for the early 4.6 3V. So, it has a long nose that goes down through an opening in the head into the combustion chamber. Problem is that carbon builds up around the plug nose in this opening and causes the plug to be difficult to turn.

And this is where the 2 piece construction comes into play- the plugs tend to break off rather than just coming out, because the plug "nose" and the hex are two separate pieces.

I think if they'd just used a 1-piece plug from the factory, it probably wouldn't even have been an issue.

Ah...makes sense now and my older bro (auto mech/diesel shop svs mgr) filled me in too. My other 'stangs were outside this era ('69, '70 & '81 model yrs). Good to know & thanks for the info.
 

LordBritish

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Ok, I've encountered my first problem.

The socket I have is not deep enough for the spark plug.

What socket should I get ?

Anyone have any recommendation?

Will any 9/16 deep well socket do or is there a specific one I need?
Do I also need a thin wall socket as well or is deep well enough?
 

Phil1098

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Ok, I've encountered my first problem.

The socket I have is not deep enough for the spark plug.

What socket should I get ?

Anyone have any recommendation?

Will any 9/16 deep well socket do or is there a specific one I need?
Do I also need a thin wall socket as well or is deep well enough?

I use a 9/16 spark plug socket. They tend to be a thin wall (which is good because it barely fits). You can get one at any auto parts store.
 

bujeezus

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Be sure it's a "spark plug" socket that has the rubber grommet at the top to hold the spark plug or it'll be a bitch trying to start the new ones.
 

LordBritish

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I did it !!!! :headbang::clap:

All came out w/o breaking and new plugs are in !!!!

Thanks for the help guys !!!
 

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Wes06

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Woo
I'm just gonna break the plugs free on both my vehicles once a year.
Inspect and be sure everything's cool and reinstall
Should keep carbon from building up and breaking plugs
 

ghunt81

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Be sure it's a "spark plug" socket that has the rubber grommet at the top to hold the spark plug or it'll be a bitch trying to start the new ones.

Little trick I learned years ago that's great for starting plugs especially ones like these, is to cut a short piece of 3/8" ID fuel line. Push one end of it onto a long 3/8" ratchet extension until it's snug on there, then put the terminal end of the plug just far enough into the tubing that it grabs it.

With that, you can put the plug down into the well, get the threads started and turn it in until it's starting to get snug (obviously the hose will not grab for it to get much tighter), then you just pull the hose off and snug it down with a ratchet.
 

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