DIY removing PCV Valve from valve cover

sportinawoody

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Okay, 14 k miles on new build over 1 1/2 years of somewhat abusive mountain driving and sprung an oil leak from timing cover and front seal. I could not find any resource for removing the pcv valve as this seems to be an enormous restriction once vacuum is disabled so this is how I got to this point since replacing gaskets/seals every 15k is not an option. tThis is my 3rd valve cover to figure out the best method and this is the easiest of the 3. Brief run down, new built stoker, rebuilt whipple seeing 16 lbs street 18 track. Pcv is disconnected completely from intake and tube. I have a vented dual inlet catch can. 1st, You need to retain the factory baffle and not alter it in much of any way. it is sealed around the entire contact area and riveted with pot metal rivets which WILL NOT ADHERE TO WELDING, so don't waste your time grinding heads off to reinstall baffle. if you deviate from factory baffles or mess up the silicone gasket, you're more than likely going to have oil blow by issues as evidenced by this thread. reference post #107 http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17863&highlight=pcv&page=6
It takes patience and a dremel with cutting wheels and either welding skills or a competent resource. basically I cut a section out of the baffle as to not upset any of the other gasket and rolled back the rubber gasket surrounding the pcv tube. cut an upside down c in the tube hugging the top and pry it open to access the valve and pry the valve out then fold it back down, have the seams welded, then the baffle welded back in place. I will ad the completed pics once I get them back from the paint shop. And for god's sake clean clean clean the cover before using it after welding/modding. I know my welds look like shit LOL














 
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BlueDevil

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Pcv is disconnected completely from intake and tube. I have a vented dual inlet catch can. 1st, You need to retain the factory baffle and not alter it in much of any way. if you deviate from factory baffles or mess up the silicone gasket, you're more than likely going to have oil blow by issues as evidenced by this thread. reference post #107 http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17863&highlight=pcv&page=6

I've been reading up on this quite a bit recently.
I'm currently running open breathers on both valve covers with my KB setup. No pcv lines routed to the intake. Some oil is coming out of the passenger side only, which is typical...which I think is because the driver side valve cover still has pcv valve (no vacuum, so always closed). The driver side breather isn't doing anything since the pcv valve is still inside the valve cover (right?).

My question is, if in the future I won't be using any vacuum via a pump, why do I still need the baffle on the driver's side? Can't I just take the whole thing out and remove the check valve?

My line of reasoning is that with the pcv/baffle totally gone, the crankcase can vent equally through both valve covers, thus reducing the oil on the passenger side valve cover. Am I missing something?

My goal is to have -10 an fittings on each valve cover routed to a Moroso vented catch can.
 

sportinawoody

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no you cant remove the baffle because you will blow tons of oil out of you breather once you start beating on your car . the baffles are there to separate the oil from the pressure and they are well designed. the pressure will find its on way out(path of least resistance) regardless but for me I didn't like the fact of having to replace seals and gaskets at only 12k miles due to the crankcase pressure from unhooking the vacuum source. reference this thread listed below. everything under the sun was tried and a vacuum pump was the only cure but then look at post 107. he did the same as you suggested and this is why he had blow by issues he couldn't easily solve. I took mine out Saturday and beat on my car really hard and put 150 miles on it and had 0 issues. I will say I also added a small wad of course steel wool under my filter just as an extra.
http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17863&highlight=pcv&page=6

also I didn't snap a pic before I installed the cover but the section of baffle that is spot welded back in place in the last picture was completely welded to seal the baffle back up. and these baffles are also sealed completely except for the far end of the cover away from the outlet
 
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Wes06

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Your link is bad. The "..." In the middle is replacing actual link text

On most recent post that is
 

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