Any roofing gurus out there? I have a few questions.

skwerl

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Bruce, it sounds like they started to run out of shingles then tried to increase coverage as not to buy anymore. Definitely shitty work. Bruce, before you make any more repairs I would call your agent, they may foot the bill for a new roof. There's a reason you pay for that insurance. If they don't cover it no harm no foul. It's not like you are purposefully damaging your roof in hopes in an insurance claim as that is wrong and it's insurance fraud. Your situation is text book stuff here. It doesn't cost anything to have them send out an adjuster to assess your roof.

Actually many insurance companies regard any inquiry as a 'claim'. Therefore I would still go back to my initial recommendation of finding a roofing company who specializes in insurance claims and have them come give you an assessment. Asking a roofing company for an assessment/price isn't going to cost you anything and they have a lot more experience dealing with insurance companies than any of us.

If it is going to be covered by insurance then they will insist on a licensed, insured roofing company doing the work anyway.
 

s8v4o

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Brian that is definitely true and good advice. Sometimes that's not always the case but is the rule of thumb. I have seen the homeowners handle everything before. Whether or not you have to file a claim to get the adjuster out there I'm not 100% sure about as I handled the contractor side of things instead of claims.

Typically the way it works is a roofing company will inspect the roof to see if it needs replaced. If the roofing company thinks insurance will replace it they will have the customer sign a contract stating that if they get the insurance company to replace the roof they will use said roofer. The roofing company will usually eat the cost of the deductible so the homeowner usually never comes out of pocket. If the insurance company decides to replace the roof they'll send the first check to the customer. The first check is not the total of the roof replacement. The customer usually gives the money to the roofing company. When the roofing company is finished they will send in a release for the depreciation check stating that the work is complete. Insurance company send the depreciation check and that money also go to the roofing company. The licensed part mostly has to do with the depreciation check from my experience.

If Bruce decided to do it himself he has a 50/50 chance of getting the depreciation check. If he winds up doing all the work himself the first check will probably cover all his expenses since there's no labor cost which can be 50-100/sq. I agree with you wholeheartedly though that the easiest thing to do is call a reputable roofing company that specializes in insurance claims!
 

BruceH

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I am certain that calling and asking for someone to come out and look is a claim no matter what.

As of right now there just isn't a whole lot of damage that I'm aware of. I understand that damage that resulted from the bad roofing job would probably be covered. As of now there isn't much that I know of. I'll do a more thorough inspection of the osb from inside the attic once everything is completely dry. I'll also clean the small area of mold with bleach water.

If I come across large areas of mold or bad sheathing I'll give the insurance company a call but I'm pretty sure there isn't going to be much to report. The roof is 22 years old, it would of been fine if not for the area of bad workmanship. They used good shingles.

So far I've figured my cost will be about $2500 for quality shingles, synthetic underlayment with ice and water shield around the perimeter and in the valleys, new flashing and drip edges.

The roof doesn't have drip edges right now. Instead they extended the shingles past the roof an inch or so. It's in the code as being acceptable but I think it's needed.

These look like a new product at HD. Not sure how well they would work but I like the looks. Price would be about the same as metal. They are advertised as being asphalt composite. Shingles that look like a clay tile roof. Not sure how well they would stand up to being walked on. I might buy a bundle just to see how well they are made. Not sold in stores, only mail order.

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skwerl

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I give up. I'm trying to tell you how to get your roof covered but you keep insisting that it's not going to happen even though you have obvious issues. Never mind that the roofer's job depends on being able to say the right words to the insurance guy in order to get your roof covered, so he can close the sale.
 

BruceH

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I give up. I'm trying to tell you how to get your roof covered but you keep insisting that it's not going to happen even though you have obvious issues. Never mind that the roofer's job depends on being able to say the right words to the insurance guy in order to get your roof covered, so he can close the sale.

I understand what you are saying. I do appreciate the good thoughts and advice. However, I can't see making a claim for obvious workmanship issues. It would bother me.
 

GIG4FUN

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I give up. I'm trying to tell you how to get your roof covered but you keep insisting that it's not going to happen even though you have obvious issues. Never mind that the roofer's job depends on being able to say the right words to the insurance guy in order to get your roof covered, so he can close the sale.

I understand what you are saying. I do appreciate the good thoughts and advice. However, I can't see making a claim for obvious workmanship issues. It would bother me.


I'm with you Bruce :hi:
 

Badd GT

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Bruce, I would check ABC supply befoer i bought anything from Home Depot or Lowes. In my 30+ years of Carpentry and General Contracting I have only found HD or Lowes cost effective on framing lumber and by the time you pay for delivery (which is included at places like ABC) they arent worth the hassle. Kinda like buying from that fella at Tasca vs. the village idiot at Autozone. Many times HD or Lowes are 200% more than a lumber yard or supply house. I have never bought roofing or done a cost comparison on roofing between the above mentioned places but it would be worth a look.
 

BruceH

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Bruce, I would check ABC supply befoer i bought anything from Home Depot or Lowes. In my 30+ years of Carpentry and General Contracting I have only found HD or Lowes cost effective on framing lumber and by the time you pay for delivery (which is included at places like ABC) they arent worth the hassle. Kinda like buying from that fella at Tasca vs. the village idiot at Autozone. Many times HD or Lowes are 200% more than a lumber yard or supply house. I have never bought roofing or done a cost comparison on roofing between the above mentioned places but it would be worth a look.


My wife and I have decided on Owens Corning Duration TruDefinition shingles. They are $21.96 a bundle at HD and about $30 at Lowes. The local HD will deliver for $80. Since we are getting 70 bundles we will pay the extra for delivery. 70 bundles weighs about 6500 pounds.

I'll call the local contractor supply place prior to placing the order from HD. I had to use them for siding back when I resided the house, they don't charge for delivery.

I've found one section of osb that I'm going to replace. What I'm debating is should I just cut out the 2x2 section between the rafters that's bad or should I take the whole panel out? I can easily set my cordless circular to cut 7/16" deep and not cut into the rafters. That's all I found that appears damaged, one 2x2 section where a bird decided to peck a hole into it. The water damage spread out about 1x1 from the damage, rafters are 2 ft apart on average and I'd cut beyond known damage just to be sure, the rafters can vary a few inches either way because I don't think anyone gave a crap when the house was being built.
 

Badd GT

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My wife and I have decided on Owens Corning Duration TruDefinition shingles. They are $21.96 a bundle at HD and about $30 at Lowes. The local HD will deliver for $80. Since we are getting 70 bundles we will pay the extra for delivery. 70 bundles weighs about 6500 pounds.

I'll call the local contractor supply place prior to placing the order from HD. I had to use them for siding back when I resided the house, they don't charge for delivery.

I've found one section of osb that I'm going to replace. What I'm debating is should I just cut out the 2x2 section between the rafters that's bad or should I take the whole panel out? I can easily set my cordless circular to cut 7/16" deep and not cut into the rafters. That's all I found that appears damaged, one 2x2 section where a bird decided to peck a hole into it. The water damage spread out about 1x1 from the damage, rafters are 2 ft apart on average and I'd cut beyond known damage just to be sure, the rafters can vary a few inches either way because I don't think anyone gave a crap when the house was being built.


That price sounds competitive I'd check anyway. I would only replace the 2x2 section. Cut the plywood back flush with the sides of the rafters then add a 2x4 alongside each rafter about 6" longer on each end than the patch to give the new plywood a good 1 1/2" of bearing on those two sides. After those are installed, run 2x4 turned flat perpendicular too the rafters along your top and bottom cuts too give the patch bearing between the rafters. 1 3/4" under the old plywood and 1 3/4" under the new plywood. You need these because of the 24" on center rafter layout. hope that makes sense. Let ABC know your shopping price for the Owens Corning so they don't treat you like a Knucklehead homeowner. I've read enough of your posts, you know how to talk the talk of a tradesman.
 
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BruceH

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That price sounds competitive I'd check anyway. I would only replace the 2x2 section. Cut the plywood back flush with the sides of the rafters then add a 2x4 alongside each rafter about 6" longer on each end than the patch to give the new plywood a good 1 1/2" of bearing on those two sides. After those are installed, run 2x4 turned flat perpendicular too the rafters along your top and bottom cuts too give the patch bearing between the rafters. 1 3/4" under the old plywood and 1 3/4" under the new plywood. You need these because of the 24" on center rafter layout. hope that makes sense. Let ABC know your shopping price for the Owens Corning so they don't treat you like a Knucklehead homeowner. I've read enough of your posts, you know how to talk the talk of a tradesman.

That makes perfect sense. Thanks for the info, I never would of thought about adding extra support.
 

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