lethal oap and condensation

I have a set of lethal oap and I can't get them to stop dripping water on cold starts. I can't hear or feel a leak but the evidence is there in the water that drips down. It is coming from the clamps highest up where the pipes go over the axle.

I've moved the clamps around and re-tightened them. The pipes are in good. I'm not sure what the deal is with these. Wondering if this is a common thing or what. Is it worth it to have them welded? It may be harder to get them off the car if I weld that junction.

Go buy a cheap pipe flaring tool at Harbor Freight. https://www.harborfreight.com/large-tail-pipe-expander-69549.html Separate the pipes at that joint and slightly flare the inside pipe until they fit tightly. If you expand it too far, no worries. Just flare the other side slightly.

Also check your band clamps. They stretch out after a couple uses and won't clamp as tightly. Might need to replace them, or again you can flare the pipes bigger.

I'm pretty sure the issue was there even when the clamps were fairly new. Still they are relatively cheap. Is there anything to be gained over the factory clamp by going with a bit larger one that uses two bolt/nuts to pull together?

Appreciate the suggestion on the flaring tool. Seems worth adding to the toolbox especially for that price.

For a slip fit connection you should be using a stepped band clamp. What do you have on there now? A U-bolt style clamp?

I replaced the clamps and now I've got an even worse leak than before. This is a slip joint on the oap where it goes up over the axle and is clamped there.

I put some RTV orange and then reclamped. If that doesn't work I'm about ready to take the car in to get the joint welded.

Matters are complicated in that I can't pull the joint apart any more it won't budge. Also the pipes won't come off the car easily without a lift.

Any other suggestions that might be fairly easy to try?

pics please

Problem joint is in red.

I had some orange RTV in the toolbox. Tight space in there but I was able to get some gasket maker on the flange. Pulled the clamps over it so the lip of the clamp was just over the flange. Let sit for 24 hours. Test started it yesterday and I can't find a leak now.

How long that lasts is anyone's guess. A longer term solution is desirable.

Is it leaking air once the vehicle is warmed up? It's not really a bad thing they leak water, it prevents it from rusting out your system, clamps, or hardware. Even in a stainless system I think I would rather the water "leak" out than boil off. Also that area isn't far from the A/C system drain.

Not sure. I felt the leak right after starting the car and within a couple minutes of that. Did not warm the car up fully and see if it seals. The leak was pretty bad. Could be heard and easily felt. Been reading around and it seems like this type of joint is notorious for leaks. Unless I figure out a better idea once the leak gets through the gasket I made then I'll have it welded up. Usually a last resort but at least you know that is gonna fix it 100%.

Again, the pipe flaring tool will make the pipe round again so it will clamp better. I already gave you a very good answer but you seem to have missed it. I fixed a similar issue on my Bullitt when I was messing around changing the exhaust.

I should've explained. The pipe doesn't want to come apart any more. I'd have to pull the oap off the car to have a shot at it. At that point may as well weld it anyway. I do appreciate your suggestion skwerl. Thanks