6R80 in my 05

05stroker said:

So, is it the plate for the 4r or do they make one specifically for the 6r?

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I guess you me the shifter gate plate as photo included. The shifters come with 2 gates 1 for 3 speed and 1 for 4 speed autos and are really designed for older type auto trans 350-400 turbos, C4-C6 etc. The trick is the length of the shift arm on the transmission see picture. The measurement on the caliper might be a little short but you just need to play with it a little bit until it hits all the detents on the transmission correctly. I also had to fabricate the bracket for mounting the cable to the transmission sorry I don't have a pic of that I usedtwo of the brackets included to make one.

Man, I could have saved myself a ton of work if I could have left my Outlaw shifter in there. I had to redo all my wiring for my trans brake, line lock, and OD since they were all ran through the momentary switch on the Outlaw and ran though activation switches on the dash.

05stroker said:

Man, I could have saved myself a ton of work if I could have left my Outlaw shifter in there. I had to redo all my wiring for my trans brake, line lock, and OD since they were all ran through the momentary switch on the Outlaw and ran though activation switches on the dash.

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Wow wish I would have posted that sooner maybe it could have been in time to help you out. The 2 buttons on mine work great for shifting I don't have linelock or transbrake ... yet. The hardest part of the shifter install was the hole for the cable I had the transmission in the car so I went at it from the top and of course that meant there were brackets for the dash support so I had to go through some thick metal at a bad angle with limited space. So if anyone is wanting to install a similar shifter and the cable goes out the front on the shifter figure out where you need the hole use a hole saw 1.5 to 2 inches and cut it from under the car before you put the transmission in it will save a lot of time and aggravation.

Karl said he was going to look into setting up the firmware on the Q6 so that when the shifter in put into the M position it will go to a secondary table for manual mode versus auto without needing a switch.

So does anyone have a total cost of the swap yet? I haven't read through the entire post.


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Fordbanger said:

So does anyone have a total cost of the swap yet? I haven't read through the entire post.


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See post 357 and scroll down from there.

Fordbanger said:

So does anyone have a total cost of the swap yet? I haven't read through the entire post.


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This is the big cost stuff I have sitting waiting for time to install ..

2013 F150 6R80 …...... $400
Quick6 ….................... $1250
REVMAX Converter ….... $1175
SPICER 4” D/S ….......... $580

Console/Crossmember/Shifter/Oil Cooler/Lines … $150 [pulled salvage yard]
New brake pedal/misc bolts ….............................$75
AN Fittings/25 feet of Goodyear ½” transmission fluid hose … $100
PRW SFI FlexPlate/ARP flexplate Bolts …................ $125
2 cases Amalie DEXRON 6 ATF ….......................... $105

I'm thinking about installing a set of the 15+ 6R clutches as those appear to be holding up well ... or since I'm freakin' tried of working on this car .. I'll likely just run it as is and put a built one in when it grenades ...


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So I have the B&M cooler on my car under the car back by the spare tire. I've got the Power By The Hour big -8AN fittings off the trans and good -8AN lines back to the cooler. This is the bigger of the B&M coolers(JPC uses it on all of their Glide, TH400, and 4r70w swaps). My temp has been creeping up and last night driving got up to 206(the fan came on) but it seemed like it doesn't come on until the fluid in the pan reaches about 195 or so. Today I drove it 45 min to work, mostly interstate, and the temp rose up to about 194 max. What are you guys seeing Temp wise on your controller?

My temps stay in the 180 range, but my 12 F150 sits in the 195-200 range and is considered normal per Ford. I'd definitely watch it as the outside temps go up that might become unacceptable.
Thanks Mike

Yea, I'm thinking that there is a temperature gradient from the trans to the thermostat on the cooler. By the time the hot fluid reaches the cooler its cooled a little and causes it to get warmer. Maybe I need to wire up a switch for the fan rather than rely on the thermostat in the cooler.

Having your cooler in the grill def helps keep yours cooler than mine I'm assuming. I may have to change my routing of this thing to get more natural airflow across it.

Mike I spoke with Karl the other day and he mentioned having to play around with your pressures to get your TCC lock up to feel good. Can you explain more about what you had to do? Right now I have mine setup to only come on 4-6 at part throttle and then 2-6 at WOT. In 4th, at part throttle, it will rev up to around 2600 or so and then when it locks, it drops down to about 2000 and feels pretty abrupt.

180-190 range. Stock 2011 cooler and lines.

jodadejss06gt said:

... What are you guys seeing Temp wise on your controller?

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Ok good so I'm not too far off. It went up as high as 204 yesterday playing around in lower gears not locked up.

jodadejss06gt said:

Mike I spoke with Karl the other day and he mentioned having to play around with your pressures to get your TCC lock up to feel good. Can you explain more about what you had to do? Right now I have mine setup to only come on 4-6 at part throttle and then 2-6 at WOT. In 4th, at part throttle, it will rev up to around 2600 or so and then when it locks, it drops down to about 2000 and feels pretty abrupt.

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I have spent a lot of time and gas to get the transmission feel I wanted. Most people will put it in move some shift points and take off which is fine if that's what you want. I on the other hand, swapped to the 6R because of the stock drivability I could gain vs my 4R. Now to answer your question my lockup under normal driving feels buttery smooth. I had to reduce the TCC Engagement DC substantially, but I have a aftermarket converter (Circle D). If you have a stock converter this may not be the case. This needs to be done early on in the tune or you will need to delete your SHIFT learn (not CLUTCH learn) to see an immediate result. In other words if you just change the pressure after you've driven the car a lot and developed a good learn history it will take a long time for it to change. Deleting the shift learn will make the change immediate. My car locks 3-6 for PT and WOT. From a standstill its like this: 1-2-3-lock-4-5-6 for PT and 1-2-3/lock-4-5-6 WOT. Your shift schedule needs to be close before you work on this too as that can also affect how it feels. All modified engines will like different shift and lock up points depending on gear ratio, weight, cams, etc...
Thanks Mike

Good stuff in here guys.

JST4FN said:

...My car locks 3-6 for PT and WOT. From a standstill its like this: 1-2-3-lock-4-5-6 for PT and 1-2-3/lock-4-5-6 WOT. Your shift schedule needs to be close before you work on this too as that can also affect how it feels. All modified engines will like different shift and lock up points depending on gear ratio, weight, cams, etc...
Thanks Mike

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Just to add to what Mike wrote, I have spent no time working with TCC. I have a stock converter and I am using the Medium/Firm shift strategy that came with the download. I have made adjustments to shift points and shift feel but no adjustments to TCC. My converter comes on in 2nd at PT. I don't really feel it until 5th but I think that is because 4th and 5th come on early at PT in the tune. In short, with my stock converter, I have not had the need to make any TCC adjustments.

Yea based on my conversation with Karl yesterday the stock converters are very very tight in comparison to Mikes 2b, my 3b and Billys' 3c?(unsure of that one). On part throttle logs I'm showing about a 500 rpm drop over 0.3 seconds at around 10% throttle.

My issue is just that it is more abrupt feeling but that is mainly because the converter is so loose. In my f150 i can feel it lock in 3rd and it only drops about 2-300 rpm. I'm going to delay the lock up later in the rpm range at the lower part throttle to try to reduce the rpm that its actually slipping before it engages to help smooth the lock up

Enjoy!

If I'm seeing it right 1-2-3-lock and when it locks it seems to start picking up pretty good?

That is correct MIke! I really wish I would have logged it because its set to lock in 2nd, but I can't confirm if it did or not. I'm testing out letting it no lock again until about 5k at WOT so that it almost acts as another gear shift and may keep me in my power band more. Although you are correct, when it locked it really started to move much quicker. Just one of those things I'm going to have to play with. Maybe test it out at the track to try to get good valid time results.

I'm pretty sure it didn't lock in 2nd or the RPM's would've dropped more. You are correct in the fact that you'll just have to see what the car likes. I've see one S550 car use a locked 2nd gear but it had a PD blower.

JST4FN said:

I'm pretty sure it didn't lock in 2nd or the RPM's would've dropped more. You are correct in the fact that you'll just have to see what the car likes. I've see one S550 car use a locked 2nd gear but it had a PD blower.

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I've talked with a few people with s197 & s550 coyote tunning knowledge and they suggested getting it locked up in 2nd. 2nd happens so quickly it will be hard.
So it seems like there is going to be a new firmware rolling out soon. There is a little issue with the OSS sensor that Karl is going to have to work through. He said he hopes next week. I may have convinced him to use one of the extra pins (that are vacant now) as an output source. I really am hoping to use the controller to turn on a relay for the trans cooler fan rather than relying on the thermostat thats in there. If he makes that happen it will be perfect!