1000 hp rotating assembly. 5.0

Have you used this combination? I can't find spec's on the boss 302 crank. I did not think they could hold 1K hp.
Excessive Motorsports 1000 HP 5.0L Coyote Rotating Assembly - Boss 302 Forged Crankshaft, Manley 4340 H-Beam Rods and Manley Pistons
Item Number: ERE-500013C Select Bore : 3.635" .005" Over Bore
Select Dish / Dome : +6.75cc Dome
Upgrade to ARP 2000 Rod Bolts : Yes
Upgrade to 9310 Alloy Wrist Pins: Yes
Internal Balance Rotating Assembly : Yes

Tekk

Need to replace my bottom end so I can add more power. I want to turn up my boost above 15 lbs.

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Wouldn't you need block reinforcements for 1k?

46addict said:

Wouldn't you need block reinforcements for 1k?

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depends on what year block, IIRC. 2015+ can take upto around 1000

The block & car is a 2011 GT with manual 6spd. I am looking to run around 800 -850 hp and thought that a 1K would leave room to grow. New main caps in billet alum as well. ARP everywhere.

Thanks for the replies. I assumed that H beams would not be rated at this hp and would have had to go to I beams.

jpbaily1 said:

The block & car is a 2011 GT with manual 6spd. I am looking to run around 800 -850 hp and thought that a 1K would leave room to grow. New main caps in billet alum as well. ARP everywhere.

Thanks for the replies. I assumed that H beams would not be rated at this hp and would have had to go to I beams.

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The Coyote and Boss cranks are the same, the Boss is just balanced differently to account for the heavier Boss pistons/rods,

Manley H-beams with ARP rod bolts will handle 1000 FW hp easy enough,

You don't need billet caps at that level either.. but if you want em' ,, run em'.


.

jpbaily1 said:

The block & car is a 2011 GT with manual 6spd. I am looking to run around 800 -850 hp and thought that a 1K would leave room to grow. New main caps in billet alum as well. ARP everywhere.

Thanks for the replies. I assumed that H beams would not be rated at this hp and would have had to go to I beams.

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This is something new to me. Billet aluminum main caps? Has there ever been an issue with the factory steel main caps? In a 4.6 they are good for as much power as anyone can make.

IMO your main weak links are the stock transmission and 2011 block. The 2011 blocks were breaking the web between cylinder and block at around 700rwhp.

This brings up another point. 1000rwhp is a shit ton of power. I have to ask, are you just comparing with other internet talk or is this something close to what you have had before?

At that power level any little thing will ruin your day. What fuel will you be using and what fuel system? How about the drive train in general? What power adder do you have in mind?

Well, I have to ask....

Why does MMR say anyone needs billet main caps?

ARP is junk.............just saying. Too many people with arp shit breaking.

Because mmr needs to sell shit
Fuck mmr

IMO you should figure out a budget for the entire car and then work backward. To build something with 850+hp that goes straight, won't kill you in a crash and will make full power for more than 8 seconds without a 2hr cool down will cost $40,000+. And that is if you do all the work yourself and go "budget" where you can. That number could easily turn into $75,000.

Hell, just good hoses/fittings for something like that is going to cost $2000-3000.

Department Of Boost said:

IMO you should figure out a budget for the entire car and then work backward. To build something with 850+hp that goes straight, won't kill you in a crash and will make full power for more than 8 seconds without a 2hr cool down will cost $40,000+. And that is if you do all the work yourself and go "budget" where you can. That number could easily turn into $75,000.

Hell, just good hoses/fittings for something like that is going to cost $2000-3000.

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In the middle of this right now. Doing all own work, turbos, motor, suspension, and 30k in. still need fuel, rear end, and saftey gear. another 10k+ easy there.

The car has a Roush blower with 69mm pulley. Buying long tube headers. Has new exhaust. No cats. Flowmeter axelbacks. Need to install that 4.10 gears, dual clutch,stage3 cams, clutch line. D1000 injectors. New hi flow fuel rails. AM 10 fuel lines. Dual fuel pumps. Has meth injection. Need the rotating assembly and bore it 03 over. Staying with 11:1compression.

jpbaily1 said:

The car has a Roush blower with 69mm pulley. Buying long tube headers. Has new exhaust. No cats. Flowmeter axelbacks. Need to install that 4.10 gears, dual clutch,stage3 cams, clutch line. D1000 injectors. New hi flow fuel rails. AM 10 fuel lines. Dual fuel pumps. Has meth injection. Need the rotating assembly and bore it 03 over. Staying with 11:1compression.

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So you are mostly looking to build the motor to handle what you have and maybe some more?

If it was me I'd just be looking at connecting rods, pistons, rings, and bearings.

Like I mentioned in a previous post imo the biggest limit on power will be the MT-82 transmission. After that it's the 2011 block. A rod and piston build should take you to the ragged edge of what the block will handle.

You came to the right place to ask about building your motor to handle your blower. Many on this site have done similar mods and they will guide you from the bs found from paid advertisers on other sites or search engines.

BruceH said:

You came to the right place to ask about building your motor to handle your blower. Many on this site have done similar mods and they will guide you from the bs found from paid advertisers on other sites or search engines.

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This is true. I would be looking at throwing a lot of money away if it wasn't for some experienced people on this board.

One more thing to think of is a FRPP short block. The price is retail, you should be able to find it for a whole lot less from Tasca.

https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-6009-A50NAA

I can't find any info on the stock 2011 coyote crank as to what it's metallurgy is composed of to glean how much hp it may handle.So we know it is forged but what is it made up of? I presume they did not use 4340 chrome moly. Is the stock crank good over 800 hp?

jpbaily1 said:

I can't find any info on the stock 2011 coyote crank as to what it's metallurgy is composed of to glean how much hp it may handle.So we know it is forged but what is it made up of? I presume they did not use 4340 chrome moly. Is the stock crank good over 800 hp?

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Has anyone broken one yet? I doubt that you will find a failure test on the stock crank. I also doubt you will find a case where one broke no matter what the power level was.

Your block will fail long before the crank imo. Let us know what you find out. AFAIK nobody on this site has broken a stock coyote crank.