Broken spark plug in head procedure.

05stroker

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Just did this on a 06 F150 with a 5.4 and 11900 mi. , MAN THAT SUCKED !

Got 1 out in one piece . Glad they came out with the tool to get the lower half out . On an f150 this sucked on the rear cylinders , but on a Mustang it should go smoother.

I tried the PB Blaster method last weekend and snapped two . I used the ford cleaner this weekend and followed the procedure and only was able to retrieve one in its entirety.
 

cop on my back

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Just did this on a 06 F150 with a 5.4 and 11900 mi. , MAN THAT SUCKED !

Got 1 out in one piece . Glad they came out with the tool to get the lower half out . On an f150 this sucked on the rear cylinders , but on a Mustang it should go smoother.

I tried the PB Blaster method last weekend and snapped two . I used the ford cleaner this weekend and followed the procedure and only was able to retrieve one in its entirety.

I own a 2004 F150 and an 05 Mustang GT and have changed plugs on both, yes the F150 is PITA! 3 broke on me despite my best, carefull efforts. Machined up my own tool to get them out. The Mustang was way easier and none broke.
 

iwaxmyjimmy

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I own a 2004 F150 and an 05 Mustang GT and have changed plugs on both, yes the F150 is PITA! 3 broke on me despite my best, carefull efforts. Machined up my own tool to get them out. The Mustang was way easier and none broke.

The Matco 3v spark plug remover is a great investment. I bought one when they first came out because the Ford tool is a pain to use on F150s and Expeditions. But I believe there is another company that has copied Matco's design and is around $70.
 

05stroker

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I own a 2004 F150 and an 05 Mustang GT and have changed plugs on both, yes the F150 is PITA! 3 broke on me despite my best, carefull efforts. Machined up my own tool to get them out. The Mustang was way easier and none broke.
What did you use to get them out ? I would love to see it if you have a pic .

The tool I used was from NAPA And was about $70 . I dont recall the brand at this time though .
 

cop on my back

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I basically looked at a picture of the tool available on Ebay and then took measurements on the truck and reverse engineered it. It looks just like the professional ones you can buy.
 

Joe Wicked

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I saw that they changed the designs earlier in the thread. Was this also changed for the F150? I just bought a 2010 F150 as well as the Mustang, so I want to be sure it was updated as well.
 

mrdeath2000

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Thinking about tackling mine at 32k. However, I want to be prepared with the tool.

You use the thin rod that is threaded on each end to tap the plug case that remains in there correct? and then pull it out that way?

I'm just trying to see what size it is and if I can do a "Loaner Tool" at Autozone.
I'd rather not invest in a 75$ tool after spending ~100 on plugs.
 

scrib

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i have a question... i think my f150 with the 5.4 is past the build date for this problem, so i am all set on that one to wait (37k miles )

but my mustang is like a month before the build dates... so i think my mustang will have a problem. car has 5200 miles on it, barley driven (2008)

am i better off doing the plugs now?
 

mikebna

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i have a question... i think my f150 with the 5.4 is past the build date for this problem, so i am all set on that one to wait (37k miles )

but my mustang is like a month before the build dates... so i think my mustang will have a problem. car has 5200 miles on it, barley driven (2008)

am i better off doing the plugs now?
Yes, or just pulling them, checking them, and applying the antiseize compound as described would help before they weld themselves in, if there was none.
 

gemstang

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lisle tool for removing plugs

:highfive:
Had the motorgrappy plus break off, got the Lisle Spark plug removal kit. Best money I've spend in a long time. Thanks to the members of this forum for the info. Now I can finish installing the Kenne bell supercharger!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks again

p.s

If you live in southern Idaho got a great tool only use 1 time!!!!!
 

tagle281

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Just did mine at 60K. Loosened each plug an 1/8th turn and spayed Sea Foam Deep Creep and let sit for about an hour while I went out for lunch. Came back and just slowly started removing them. None broke and actually came out very easily.
 

gus

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Replacing mine now before I start on eforce install. The box for the HTO plugs say no anti-seize on threads. The Edelbrock manual says coat the threads with anti-seize. The TSB does not specify- It only shows it going on the ground electrode shield. What is correct for the threads?
 

Boozshey

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I used the nickel anti-seize. I thought the TSB said to use it didn't it...
 

gus

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I have the Motorcraft high nickel stuff. Here is what the Ford instructions say. No mention of the threads...

NEW PLUGS SHOULD BE INSTALLED USING A
FILM COATING OF MOTORCRAFT HIGH
TEMPERATURE NICKEL ANTI-SEIZE LUBRICANT
ON THE GROUND ELECTRODE SHIELD. DO NOT
COAT THE ELECTRODE STRAP.
 

tagle281

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Replacing mine now before I start on eforce install. The box for the HTO plugs say no anti-seize on threads. The Edelbrock manual says coat the threads with anti-seize. The TSB does not specify- It only shows it going on the ground electrode shield. What is correct for the threads?


I used anti-sieze on the ground shield but it wasn't nickel.
 

gus

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Luckily they all came out easy. No carb cleaner was needed. 1/4 turn to break them loose and they came out turning by hand. But the car only has 11K on it. 3 of the plugs were a bit oily the others were slightly rusty. The has been sitting since Nov and started twice a month during that time.
 

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