The Great Oil Debate

UnleashedBeast said:

The T6060 was designed for ATF, nothing else. If you want the best shifting cold or hot, use this and never look back.

Amsoil ATF - requires 1 gallon (4 quarts).

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Tried that, it was nudgy when cold but great when hot. When the transmission was warm it was ok. I've tried all the products and did a written check list of my thoughts after each one. The best combination from my results whats the gm fluid with the 1 quart of the syncromesh. I know the GM fluid is probably a relabel from something else but I was pointed to that combination from a fellow on the zr1 forums. I was extremely skeptical at first but I tell you that combination of gm manual transmission and transfer case oil with that 1 quart of gm syncromesh was like heaven. It performed great when cold, warm and hot. warm is daily driving and hot is on track days. I strongly encourage anyone to just try it and I promise they will not look at any other fluids. If you dont like it (which I doubt) you only wasted like $40 on fluids...

Mattr89 said:

I have Been using Royal purple for over 10 years in all my vehicles. However it seems Castro is stepping up their game, There Syntech oil wasn't 100% synthetic however their new edge series is. Has anyone used it or this new titanium oil?

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How do you know this is 100% synthetic?

Mattr89 said:

There Syntech oil wasn't 100% synthetic however their new edge series is.

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That's a tall claim, considering Castrol refuses to post the spec for NOACK Volatility on this lubricant. They were also the company that began marketing hydrocracked petroleum as a "full synthetic".

Trust me, it's not a base oil change....only an additive change. Believing otherwise is insane.

UnleashedBeast said:

That's a tall claim, considering Castrol refuses to post the spec for NOACK Volatility on this lubricant. They were also the company that began marketing hydrocracked petroleum as a "full synthetic".

Trust me, it's not a base oil change....only an additive change. Believing otherwise is insane.

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Well the commercial states it outperforms Mobil 1. Under us law a claim can't be made without validity so one can assume that there must be some truth there.

Also Mobil one has a type of makeup that seems to have more engine noise than any other oil. The BMW oil is castrol so I guess it's equal to or worse than all castrol?

Mattr89 said:

Well the commercial states it outperforms Mobil 1. Under us law a claim can't be made without validity so one can assume that there must be some truth there.

Also Mobil one has a type of makeup that seems to have more engine noise than any other oil. The BMW oil is castrol so I guess it's equal to or worse than all castrol?

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Laws mean nothing to big oil companies. They make claims all the time that mean nothing. Most of them have been advertising "fully synthetic" for years, yet are hydrocracked petroleum "highly refined dino oil".

Castrol started this trend. I wouldn't trust them at all.

What really gets me....

Year ago, when Royal Purple was a true synthetic, they were making claims that were true. However, because it was affecting sales of big oil brands, they took them to court over it. Money is the root of evil, and big oil companies have all of it.

Is there a list of true synthetic oils? What are the pro's and con's of true synthetic versus hydrocracked? Sorry if this has been asked already.

I'm not looking for debate, just actual experience with the product.

Super Tech from Wal-Mart. MSDS says that Exxon/Mobil makes the conventional oil and that Warren Distributing makes or blends the synthetic.

I'm guessing that the conventional is similar to if not rebranded Mobil 5000. I've used M5000 before and have no complaints. The only synthetic I can find appears to be blended by Warren Distributing. This is their advertisement. http://www.wd-wpp.com/upload/saved/Mag_1_FullSyn.pdf

Does anyone have experience with it? I may send some in for a voa to see if it matches the ad. $17 for 5 quarts and readily available. I don't do extended drain intervals. In fact I keep them short due to the 2618 pistons in my motor and the increased blowby during warm up.

With the frequent oil change intervals a 2618 piston motor requires tbn isn't a concern.

Anyone else on a short oil drain schedule because of their custom motor clearances? A friend of mine used to use the cheapest api certified oil he could in his bb altered. The motor saw frequent tear downs and he never had increased wear issues from using the cheap oil. His belief was that frequent oil changes were required because of the blowby and I'm thinking the same way.

http://www.wd-wpp.com/upload/saved/Mag_1_FullSyn.pdf

I only run 3000miles and use conventional, as I was informed it holds up better to fuel contamination than synthetics.
2618 pistons and large clearances.

was looking for the 5w 50 full synthetic at advance auto the other day they only had Castrol with zinc. Is the zinc a normal additive and will it have any ill effects on a new car? Wanna do a break in oil change but was concerned about the high zinc good for classic cars label.

Zinc is a good additive for a motor without cats. It kills cats. Zinc and phosphorus were the two main additives in the old days. They are still very effective but are hard on modern catalytic converters.

I used a zinc/phosphorus additive with conventional oil for break in of my Big Bore motor. Ran it for a little over 1000 miles and just recently went with my own syn blend. We have had new Hondas that came from the factory with break in oil. Based on the longevity of the brand I figured they probably know what they are doing, lol. No more additive for my motor. Honda figures it's most important during engine break in so I'll follow that lead.

My syn blend is 5 quarts of Super Tech synthetic and 3 quarts of ST conventional. My motor and gt500 oil pan holds 8 quarts.

Whitehead's comments about the 20 vs 30 viscosity debate have been bandied about for a long time now. I think real world results have shown that running 20 viscosity isn't going to harm anything unless the application specifically requires something else. People have run supercharged 3v cars down the drag strip with it and surprise, nothing bad happened. I made the decision to not worry about it. That said I'm sure switching to a 30 isn't going to harm anything either. I ran it in my 3v for years.

Running a car once down the strip does way less damage than cruising at 65mph for an hour. I have still not seen conclusive evidence that supports the 20 weight. On yhe other hand there are a couple of oil analysis on this forum of 5w20 breaking down. I still have not seen 1 negative of 5w30.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

BruceH said:

Zinc is a good additive for a motor without cats. It kills cats. Zinc and phosphorus were the two main additives in the old days. They are still very effective but are hard on modern catalytic converters.

I used a zinc/phosphorus additive with conventional oil for break in of my Big Bore motor. Ran it for a little over 1000 miles and just recently went with my own syn blend. We have had new Hondas that came from the factory with break in oil. Based on the longevity of the brand I figured they probably know what they are doing, lol. No more additive for my motor. Honda figures it's most important during engine break in so I'll follow that lead.

My syn blend is 5 quarts of Super Tech synthetic and 3 quarts of ST conventional. My motor and gt500 oil pan holds 8 quarts.

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Very underrated oil. the last time I was at a Kawasaki tech update the guys teaching it were all about it.

Anyone Hear About Pennzoil PurePlus...??

So I just learned about Pennzoil PurePlus ...a full synthetic made from natural gas with makes it cleaner than any synthetic out there.

http://pureplus.pennzoil.com/

Pennzoil Platinum® Full Synthetic motor oil with PurePlus™ Technology is a first-of-its kind synthetic motor oil blended with a pure, crystal-clear base oil made from natural gas. PurePlus base oil has fewer of the impurities found in crude oil, the start for many other traditional and synthetic motor oils. The difference is in the base oil, which makes up 75%-90% of a typical motor oil formulation. Pennzoil Platinum Full Synthetic products use 100% PurePlus Base Oils.

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When you combine PurePlus™ synthetic base oils with high performance additives, you get Pennzoil Platinum® and Pennzoil Ultra Platinum™ Full Synthetic motor oils. At Pennzoil, we know consumers are not just looking for a motor oil to stand for one thing — they don’t want to make tradeoffs when it comes to engine protection. That’s why we’ve formulated Pennzoil Platinum® products to deliver COMPLETE PROTECTION without compromise

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http://pureplus.pennzoil.com/base-oil/

Supposedly this was run in the Hennessy Venom GT...


How come my post got moved???
It will get lost in this old thread...

Rotella T6

My friend with a twin-turbo Shelby making 1400ish told me he runs Rotella T6 in his car and swears by it because of the properties in the oil. He too runs E85 and says he changes it often to avoid it being diluted by the alcohol. Does anyone else have experience or opinions on this oil choice?

The Rotella series, which is generally for diesel trucks, does have a high zinc content compared to regular oils do to newer regulations.

I have heard of running it in performance engines for that reason.

Fast 3V said:

My friend with a twin-turbo Shelby making 1400ish told me he runs Rotella T6 in his car and swears by it because of the properties in the oil. He too runs E85 and says he changes it often to avoid it being diluted by the alcohol. Does anyone else have experience or opinions on this oil choice?

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I would hope that his clearances and pump setup are correct for the viscosity. It sounds like he isn't taking it into consideration, just the additives.

At that much power he will have to do regular teardowns anyway so he should know if it's helping or hurting within a few months at the next teardown and bearing inspection.

BruceH said:

I would hope that his clearances and pump setup are correct for the viscosity. It sounds like he isn't taking it into consideration, just the additives.

At that much power he will have to do regular teardowns anyway so he should know if it's helping or hurting within a few months at the next teardown and bearing inspection.

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I don't intend to tear my motor down...Bruce, what oil would you suggest I run? 5.0 Stroker 3V with no cats, 20 over bore. I live in hot weather. I have an MMR oil pump with billet gears...High Boost application on E85. Thanks for your advise.

Fast 3V said:

I don't intend to tear my motor down...Bruce, what oil would you suggest I run? 5.0 Stroker 3V with no cats, 20 over bore. I live in hot weather. I have an MMR oil pump with billet gears...High Boost application on E85. Thanks for your advise.

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I don't have the education or experience to deviate from what Ford recommends.

With that said I'd ask what are your bearing and side rod clearances?

I'd really have to ask my machine guy...I don't really know.

Thanks for the honest answer.