The Great Oil Debate

JEWC_Motorsports

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IMO Valvoline and Amsoil makes the best synthetics. Id never use any pennzoil product.
 

AutoXRacer

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IMO Valvoline and Amsoil makes the best synthetics. Id never use any pennzoil product.

Did you read its made of natural gas...??? Naturally purified base stock!!

Valvoline is made from crude oil with all the crap in it... Not sure about Amsoil though...but I'm sure they are using base stock extracted from crude.
 

JEWC_Motorsports

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I would have to read some outside testing results. Pennzoil has been known to construe the facts about their products.
 

AutoXRacer

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I would have to read some outside testing results. Pennzoil has been known to construe the facts about their products.

Thats what I would like to see testing!!!

According to Pennzoil, this new oil surpasses group 4 base stocks.
Would like to know how true that is.

My only reference point is that it was used in the Hennessy Venom to break the speed record and create a new record of 270MPH.
 

styx21

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Nothing definite. I had the beehive springs on it so I don't think the valves were floating. It was suggested that the guy who did the head porting may have sunk the seats to low?? There was no indication that the valves ever hit the head. Maybe I just had some bad valves or weak valve keepers. I don't know. Kind of frustrating not knowing for sure why something broke.

Thanks for the advice and sorry about where I posted

Use what the builder suggests.

Also - search the site for break in procedure and you will find a ton of info.

Thanks for the advice
 
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BruceH

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It isn't a question about oil, it's a question about a noise in the valvetrain that is happening after switching to 5w20 and won't go away now.

It sure looked like you were asking about oil related things? If you want to repost about the noise feel free, all I saw was "I changed oil brand and this happened, my oil looked like water is this normal.

Anyone have any comments on this??? My post was moved too... sigh

Gerald, Oil related questions go in this thread. There just isn't a whole lot of tech involved in oil types. Maybe on other sites where changing your oil is considered a manly thing to do but not here.

I'd suggest another forum if this thread isn't in depth enough for you. As long as the oil is api certified it should be good. I'm running Wal Mart tech oil and not having any issues. IMO changing the oil and filter on a regular basis is far more important than type and brand, especially with forced induction. That's just an opinion though. For in depth arguing I'd suggest svtp or bitog. There are plenty of oil salesmen on those sites.
 

dre256

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Am quite confused, in the coyote 5.0, alot of people say run what factory says 5w 20. But some say its too thin and run 5w 50 like in the track packs. So best to run 5w 20 or 5w 50?
 

dre256

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Dre alot of us run 5w30 or 10w30. I have run 10w30 for the last 20k miles.

Thanks, as its super confusing from one source to another figuring it out. As am due for an oil change and I agree that 5 20 seems too thin especially in the summer.
 

BruceH

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With factory clearances the chance of spinning a bearing increases greatly with a thicker than specified oil. Keeping a good oil wedge at all times is important, it's what physically separates the bearing and crank. A wedge also has to be maintained for the cams. The oil passages, pump volume, psi, are all designed to work with a specific oil viscosity.

Here is the workshop manual, maybe you can crunch the numbers and find out what you need instead of asking random people on the internet? Another option is to trust that Ford knows what they are doing.

http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=822
 

Riptide

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Am quite confused, in the coyote 5.0, alot of people say run what factory says 5w 20. But some say its too thin and run 5w 50 like in the track packs. So best to run 5w 20 or 5w 50?
This subject has been beaten to death over and over.

The coyote will tolerate a wide range of viscosity. I use 5w20 all year round. So do a lot of other people including those who track their cars.

Use whatever lets you sleep at night.
 

skwerl

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People in Washington State and Montana use 5w-20 and it's perfect for them. People in Florida and Texas should probably use 5w-30 or even 5w-50 if they run their car hard in the heat.

First number is cold viscosity, second number is hot viscosity. Explained dozens of times in this thread in more detail. A high first number can hurt your motor on cold startups. A low second number can hurt your motor in extended high temp operation.
 

WARstang

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Did the tip break off the valve causing it to fall in the cylinder? If so, you could have floated the valve.

Nothing definite. I had the beehive springs on it so I don't think the valves were floating. It was suggested that the guy who did the head porting may have sunk the seats to low?? There was no indication that the valves ever hit the head. Maybe I just had some bad valves or weak valve keepers. I don't know. Kind of frustrating not knowing for sure why something broke.

Thanks for the advice and sorry about where I posted



Thanks for the advice
 
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BruceH

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People in Washington State and Montana use 5w-20 and it's perfect for them. People in Florida and Texas should probably use 5w-30 or even 5w-50 if they run their car hard in the heat.

First number is cold viscosity, second number is hot viscosity. Explained dozens of times in this thread in more detail. A high first number can hurt your motor on cold startups. A low second number can hurt your motor in extended high temp operation.

One of our Texas members ran 5w20 for over 260,000 miles on his stock F150.

With that said I don't really think that 5w30 is going to hurt anything. Ford specs 5w50 in motors that have the same clearances as the 5w20 motors. However, the Ford 5w50 spec must be pretty tight because not many manufacturers can make it. Just like when 5w20 first came out. It wasn't widely available. In fact it's only been available in Australia for the past year or so.

Boutique oil blenders couldn't get the base stock for quite some time. Originally only Mobil had the technology to make it and they weren't selling base stock to blenders who had trashed their name. That's when the whole government conspiracy theory came out. But I digress...
 

Grabber Blue 5.0

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Dre alot of us run 5w30 or 10w30. I have run 10w30 for the last 20k miles.

I run 10w-30 as well. Car is only driven in the Spring/Summer months though.


Ford Motorcraft 5w-20 is actually closer to 5w-30 and their 5w-50 shears down to a 40 weight in under 1000 miles.
 

dre256

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This subject has been beaten to death over and over.

The coyote will tolerate a wide range of viscosity. I use 5w20 all year round. So do a lot of other people including those who track their cars.

Use whatever lets you sleep at night.

I know the subject has been beaten over an over, that's why its so confusing and no two threads or searches match :laughlots:
 

AutoXRacer

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Here is something to add to your confusion...

From a reputable GM source:

The Synthetic Oil Myth -- Then there is the myth that new engine break-in will not occur with synthetic oils. This one was apparently started by an aircraft engine manufacturer who put out a bulletin that said so. The fact is that Mobil 1 synthetic oil has been the factory-fill for many thousands of engines. Clearly, they have broken in quite well, and that should put this one to rest.
 

BruceH

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I know people who have used synthetic for break in and had to tear down the motor for a rehone when it didn't work.

IMO it has to do with the hone. A diamond hone doesn't need much of a break in but a stone hone does. Just an opinion, nothing to back it up.

Here is something to add to your confusion...

From a reputable GM source:

The Synthetic Oil Myth -- Then there is the myth that new engine break-in will not occur with synthetic oils. This one was apparently started by an aircraft engine manufacturer who put out a bulletin that said so. The fact is that Mobil 1 synthetic oil has been the factory-fill for many thousands of engines. Clearly, they have broken in quite well, and that should put this one to rest.
 

skwerl

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Here is something to add to your confusion...

From a reputable GM source:

The Synthetic Oil Myth -- Then there is the myth that new engine break-in will not occur with synthetic oils. This one was apparently started by an aircraft engine manufacturer who put out a bulletin that said so. The fact is that Mobil 1 synthetic oil has been the factory-fill for many thousands of engines. Clearly, they have broken in quite well, and that should put this one to rest.

Seems to me you just had to tear down and rebuild your new engine because it never broke in properly and was burning lots of oil? Once again (or still), you're overanalyzing the fuck out of this and somehow you'll end up fucking it up again instead of just doing what is proven to work. Sorry to be harsh but it pisses me off seeing you go on and on and on and on over something so fucking basic. You're never satisfied with the answer and insist on continuing to forge new paths because somehow you believe the answer hasn't been discovered yet.

Good luck in your quest for the 'perfect' oil. I hope one day you find it and prove us all wrong. In the meantime I'll just keep using what works and not worry about it.
 

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