Phaser Bolt Torque WTF

I know the spec is 30 ft/lbs + 90* , they are TTY, so one shot deal on the bolts , but I feel like I am going to snap these bolts getting to +90 . How hard should I expect to be pulling on these to get to +90?

I really didn't want to take all of my followers back out and the chains off to mount the phaser locking tool to the block, but do I have to? Should I have pre lubed the bolt? I am so scared I am going to snap the bolts... I am at ~ 45-60* and anymore I would need a big ass breaker bar and have to hold the crank from moving.

Any suggestions? It just doesn't feel right. The cams are custom grinds from L&M which come from Comp. Could they have fucked up the tap on the cam?

Something so easy is driving me crazy

This is the first time obviously cranking down on these bolts has me scared to death... lol

When I swapped my cams I used my breaker and braced it against something. Can't remember if it was the K, steering rack or radiator support, maybe it was even the ground. Anyways I could not hold the crank by myself and torque the phaser its 90*. Are you sure the bolt was torqued proper to the 30 ftlbs. before going the 90*? I wrenched on it pretty hard but I don't think I was ever in fear of the bolt snapping.

It's a tough pull but I'm sure you won't break them off. On mine after the torque was reached I marked the head of the bolt and the phaser then pulled, even jerked the ratchet until I achieved the 90 degree mark. The motor would roll over until a compression stroke and hold for another pull/jerk. Good Luck.

Yeah , Torque is right, at least I hope my wrench is accurate... But I got it, it seems jerking it with a shorter socket did the trick; just did not think you had to pull on it that hard ... crazy ...when in doubt, jerk it !!

The 30ft/lb is basically to make sure the bolt is seated iirc. So being exact isn't 100% on that because you follow up with 90° turn.

Just wait till you do head bolts. Like 30 ft/lb, +90°+90°
Your really bracing yourself to keep engine from tipping when on the engine stand

I done half dozen or so cam swaps and never had to jerk anything and never felt it was too hard, get to 30lbs, have a buddy hold the crank bolt. I like to position the wrench (2ft wrench) straight up on the driver side so I just two hand gently pull till the wrench is parallel to the ground and opposite way for passenger side. Smooth continuos pull.

JeremyH said:

I done half dozen or so cam swps and never had to jerk anything and never felt it was too hard, get to 30lbs, have a buddy hold the crank bolt. I like to position the wrench (2ft wrench) straight up on the driver side so I just two hand gently pull till the wrench is parallel to the ground and opposite way for passenger side. Smooth continuos pull.

Click to expand...

+1, have replaced many of them during cam swaps. The procedure works fine, just do a smooth motion. To help, mark the bolt head where it started or where it needs to go so you know how far you need to turn it

The cam has a square on the back side of it, a 3/8 or 1/2 breaker bar should fit it. I have a friend brace it while I torque the cam bolt. I've seen people hold the motor by the crank bolt or put a pry-bar on the flywheel teeth, I don't prefer these methods as there's a chance to relieve torque on the crank bolt or damage the flywheel, but modification is the name of the game, how you get to the end result is to each their own journey. From my cams having been soaked in motor oil prior to install, I've never felt the bolt was hard to torque. I would hope and assume your cams/bolts aren't dry. If so, the extra heat may cause seizing, but if they are lubricated, just brace it all up and turn. If you think you're average in stength (like me) you should be able to torque that 90* with a 24" breaker in one shot. If you have to jerk it, get more leverage. I'd say jerking on a bolt head is more likely to shear a head off than one smooth motion.