Removing A/C from 05 GT?

OutlawEvans

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I have an 05 Mustang that's a dedicated drift/track car. I want to remove the a/c to reduce weight and parasitic loss. I've haven't done this before and I'm curious if there will be any lines that will have to be welded up or parts on the block where the a/c lines used to connect? I have no experience with A/C systems in cars or pretty much how they work, I'm just ripping it out haha.
(Done lots of research online and cant find info on removing a/c from S197s)

Here's a link to the car
http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2409984#post2409984
 

Wes06

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You can just unbolt it all. No need to fill spots on the block or weld lines.

The lines connect to the compressor not the block.

Either need an ac delete pulley, or shorter belt, not 10% sure
 

stv_huff

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I'd be super stoked if you did a dyno before and after.
 

46addict

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roberts

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i did it. it all unbolts its easy dont take 1hr or so to do it.
I used a ac delete pulley but u dont have to. thats all up to u!
 

tjm73

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I doubt you will get much parasitic gain from removal.
 

46addict

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Yeah I've read from several places the PCM shuts off the AC at WOT so there is no parasitic loss there anyway. A freewheeling compressor pulley should not rob much power, if at all. You're better off with an electric water pump IMO.
 

swflastang05

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Easy peasy to remove, there's not much gain as far as parasitic loss however there is a decent amount of weight removed, especially if you remove all the BS under the dash too. And my favorite part is cleaning up the engine bay!
 

OutlawEvans

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Post with pics on how it was done
http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showpost.php?p=183211&postcount=35

The full thread
http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10934&highlight=ac+delete

I didn't look hard enough to see what size belt would be needed after the compressor pulley is gone. I'll leave that up to you.

edit: apparently you replace the compressor with a "delete pulley" like this one and keep the same belt. https://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-acdelete-9609.html

Thanks for the links, couldn't find any threads or "how tos" for the life of me. Appreciate it a lot!
 

fourdegrees11

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How much does it really weigh, and what does that truly gain for you?

I think I would rather race with some AC :fuckyea:
 

OutlawEvans

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Anybody know what belts to look for without the a/c delete pulley?
 

86GT351

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Yeah I've read from several places the PCM shuts off the AC at WOT so there is no parasitic loss there anyway. A freewheeling compressor pulley should not rob much power, if at all. You're better off with an electric water pump IMO.



I bet if this post was on a Honda Forum there would be a 1000% increase. LOL!
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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I doubt you will get much parasitic gain from removal.

Probably a massive 0.1hp as that's about what it takes to spin a freewheeling AC clutch pulley. As for the weight saving by removing the entire AC system, that'll be 35lb maximum.
 

Pentalab

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Probably a massive 0.1hp as that's about what it takes to spin a freewheeling AC clutch pulley. As for the weight saving by removing the entire AC system, that'll be 35lb maximum.

Agreed. Even VMP sez it only takes 3/4 hp to spin their 2.3 TVS blower, @ 4k+ eng rpm, when in blower off mode, zero boost. An AC clutch pulley will amount to nothing..with AC off.

Another possible place to save a bit of weight is the battery, and / or re-locate it to the trunk, on driver's side. Some of the after market batteries were quite a bit lighter. Between the oem complete AC system and possibly a lighter start battery, a fair amount of weight could be shed.
 

SLIKSKILZ

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Removing AC equipment from under hood (33-35 lbs) is easy part. To get it out you will end up bending the main line that connects to the evaporator via the block on the firewall. Either that or you will have to remove the intake manifold to get the line out without damaging it. To remove all interior AC equipment is another 25 lbs but you will have to remove dash completely and seal off all the holes in the firewall. You will also lose the heater in the process and have to bypass those hoses.I used Gates 18071 and 19764 and trimmed them to correct length the mated them together with a brass hose connector from home depot. Since I have tons of space behind the dash I also moved the ecu and fuse box in the cab under the dash. That was way more work than the AC delete. There's a "wire tuck" thread on this forum that helped. Hope this answers some of your ?s
 

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46addict

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Wow. Is that a cord for a handheld coming out of the cig lighter? What was used to seal the firewall?
 
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SLIKSKILZ

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Bingo on the handheld cord! Lol Honestly right now the firewall is just tightly sealed with gorilla duct tape from both sides. They will be welded up in the future. So far not a single problem with the tape tho I do live in Texas and it won't last forever.
 

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