07 gt500 heat exchanger upgrade

Department Of Boost

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It would be easy, I'd use a barrel and a stock tank heater, they are 220V, IIRC. It can take forever to heat up, just get it to 90F or what have you, then you're just returning to the tank and taking temp values at given time intervals.
Tank heater? What's a tank heater?

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Here are some familiar, typical looking heat exchangers with heat transfer values. That double pass is very effective. I have a copy of the "full face," the double pass "large" which probably isn't even as good as the latest ford piece can move almost twice the heat.
Taking into account Edlebrocks bullshit claims that their blower make more low end torque because of the longer runners I will always second guess any and all data/claims from them.

I have found a 2013 GT500 HE for $375 USD here in Canada. No shipping. Where is DOB shipping from, and how much does that exchanger weigh, about 5-8 pounds I'd guess? Probably fit in a 30x14X14 box.

Detroit-ish. The box is 32x17x17 and 19lb.
 

eighty6gt

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Taking into account Edlebrocks bullshit claims that their blower make more low end torque because of the longer runners I will always second guess any and all data/claims from them.

No kidding. Sigh. Well, they wanted to design a dinner plate flat thing that doesn't look like a blower, and they succeeded. Theoretical gains at its best.
 

Pentalab

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Tank heater? What's a tank heater?


Taking into account Edlebrocks bullshit claims that their blower make more low end torque because of the longer runners I will always second guess any and all data/claims from them.



Detroit-ish. The box is 32x17x17 and 19lb.

You could also use something like a 10- 40 gallon hot water tank..and set it for 140-180 deg F. ( an electric hot water tank, like used in a home).

Beware of BTU specs for any rad or HE. If you look at the oil coolers made by... damn forgot the brand that the track guys use, read the fine print. They will spec a min temp for the heated coolant entering the input of the rad /HE. They will also spec a min air velocity. They will also spec XXX deg F ambient cooling air entering the rad /HE.

Without knowing those 3 items, 'BTU' is a bs figure. The bigger the differential between the coolant temp and outside ambient air temp, and the more effective the HE will become. Air velocity through the HE /rad is everything. Rads and he are air cooled. Air pressure goes up to the square of the velocity. 100 mph will be double the velocity of 50 mph ( and double the CFM)..but pressure will quadruple. That's good, cuz with more pressure, easier to force more cfm though the rad.

Its pressure that knocks trees over in a hurricane. 70 mph is double the pressure of 50 mph. 86.3 mph is triple 50 mph. 100 mph is quadruple. 111.8 mph is five times the pressure of 50 mph etc, etc.

Edelbrock is full of BS with their long runner. If you read their fine print, the boost starts at 5 psi.....and ends up at 8 psi at top end. Boost Curves up real quick above 5 krpm.... where the runners crap out. On their 11-14 blowers, the runners are slightly shorter and shift the performance a little higher up the rpm curve. So their '460 crank hp, with only 5 psi' is pure bs. It's 8 psi at wot.

You will get the same 460 crank HP, with any 05-09 roush M90 that has the optional roush cone style CAI and tune. And the boost is 5 psi from 2-6 krpm.
 

Department Of Boost

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I'm really just playing what iffs here. It's incredibly unlikely that I would be setting up a test like this any time in the near future. It sure would be fun though.

I think the biggest issue would be getting something that can heat the water up fast enough. When you start a test there is always going to be air in the system from when you put everything together. It takes a couple of minutes for the flow meter to stabilize/get all the air out. Getting something in the loop that can get you the correct temp water at 10gpm is one thing. Getting something that will get you the correct water temp at 27gpm is a completely different deal. That's a LOT of water in let's say a 3min test. Which would be a very rushed test.
 

eighty6gt

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The thermometer goes in the barrel.

You have a 50 gallon barrel of water, it's 150, 200f, whatever. I can do this with a propane burner if I have to. The system is all pre primed and running.

The water circuit goes from the barrel, to my old bosch pump hooked to 12-14v, to my heat exchanger of choice, back onto the barrel. 3/4" lines. A large ~24" dia 120v fan I have is blowing across the exchanger.

Stopwatch starts, burner goes off, when the water temp hits ambient (or a given temp, say 100F,) stop watch stops. Some math happens, bazinga.
 

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