BMR Watts Link - Teaser

Sell it to me and leave in the pan hard?

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Flipped the bar side to side and got the clearance I needed.
Thank you Dylan

Gabe said:

Installing the BMR Watts on the fiancee's Shelby and having interference issues between the rear swaybar and the Watts.
Swaybar is factory piece, factory end links too.

How can I fix this other than removing the swaybar or replacing the bar/links assembly?

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Is the suspension hanging while you're doing this? That was a problem I was having back when I was attempting to install it. Put a jack under the diff and raise the axle up a few pumps. Should leave you adequate room still to work.

Speedboosted said:

Is the suspension hanging while you're doing this? That was a problem I was having back when I was attempting to install it. Put a jack under the diff and raise the axle up a few pumps. Should leave you adequate room still to work.

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It was hanging.
Like I posted above though, I flipped the bar side-to-side and got plenty of clearance.

Only problem I still ended up having was the driver side bracket that the link goes into, was not welded right.
With the link in it, putting it up against the axle clamp piece, it wasn't anywhere near flat against it.
Had over 1/4" of space on the inner side.
Took the link out of it, bolted it up, then hammered it back so the link bushing could actually fit.
I still don't like how it fits around the bushing, hoping for a replacement ...

Gabe said:

It was hanging.
Like I posted above though, I flipped the bar side-to-side and got plenty of clearance.

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Sorry, you posted as I was typing the reply so never saw it. Glad you got it figured out though.

Lately I've been getting a tinny rattling noise from the rear of the car over sharp impacts/bumps.
I've checked and re-checked everything at the back of the car, everything's tight.
What are the chances the rod ends in the Watts link might be causing the noise?
It seems to be coming from right rear more than anything, at least when I hear it from the driver's seat. Which makes me think it's not the Watts Link.

I don't have the BMR watts; another brand. But I do have BMR adjustable lower control arms and I get rattling (how I describe it) over sharp impacts/bumps.

I am blaming it on the BMR adjustable LCA.

Gabe, what LCAs do you have? Do they have rod ends?

Steeda billet LCAs.
No rod ends on them, but they have those awful spacer things that go in-between the mounting bracket and the rubber, which in itself is another spacer.
I recently took them all apart and lubed the shit out of the rear of those things, but each one had a rubber piece that wouldn't come off.
So I'm looking for a sale on BMR so I can replace them

The $90 non-adjustable Poly LCAs that BMR makes are pretty dang awesome. I'd say you get 90% of the performance of rod-end LCAs (which I had previously) with none of the clunkiness. Rod-end LCAs sound like throwing a drawer of silverware down a flight of stairs every time you go over a bump.

Sky Render said:

The $90 non-adjustable Poly LCAs that BMR makes are pretty dang awesome. I'd say you get 90% of the performance of rod-end LCAs (which I had previously) with none of the clunkiness. Rod-end LCAs sound like throwing a drawer of silverware down a flight of stairs every time you go over a bump.

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Lol, yeah the noise seems to have started after I removed the CHE relocation brackets, so maybe something happened with the LCAs, I don't know.
But since the only rod ends in the car are in the Watts, I was wondering if maybe anybody else has had the same thing happen.
The Watts in my fiancée's Shelby is quiet, I installed both of them the same way, so I expect that both are behaving the same way.
Which kinda leaves the LCAs.

My noise issues still going on, only over sharp impacts, and the car now has new BMR rear springs, BMR LCAs with polyurethane bushings front and rear.
At one point on here I saw somebody describing that rod-end stuff can make a noise like a box of silverware falling on the floor.
Well, that's kinda the noise I'm getting now from the rear of the car.
The only rod ends back there are in the Watts link, and I'd love to know if there's a way to quiet them down before I pull it and install an adjustable Panhard bar, just to see if that's what's been causing it.
Hell, I might even put it up for sale soon if I can't get it to be quiet.
De-modding has been on my mind lately ... I think I'm really getting the itch for something different

I have the poly/rod end BMR LCA's and they do a little creaking and popping. When I installed a BMR, rod-end Watts Link, everything was dead quiet back there, even the LCA noise was gone (I am guessing because of less lateral loading/movement during suspension travel, but IDK). Dead quiet for about a week, that is. Now it's a regular symphony back there.

Yep, that's what a rod end suspension sounds like. Dead quiet for a few weeks or months, until they wear a tiiiiiny bit, then it sounds like someone pushed a tool chest down a flight of stairs every time you hit a bump.

Rod ends = great for racing, not for street use

Well, I took the Watts Link out, took the side links out and cleaned the rod-ends, then lubed them as much as I could, trying to get some synthetic chassis grease into them, then covered them in anti-seize goo, trying to keep water and dirt out.
Then I made sure that every grease fitting in the Watts and in the LCA's is re-greased.
That was a couple/few days ago.
Noise still there.

Today I adjusted my yellow Konis in the back down to almost full-soft and drove the car.
Car drove smoother/nicer over bumps, and it took a harsher impact than usual to make my "tool chest down a flight of stairs" noise re-appear.
Got me wondering if the rear shocks might be toast.
They're over 5 years old.

Gonna swap in the wife's OEM GT500 rear shocks and see what happens.
I'd swap in my OEM shocks, but they've been sold for a couple years already.

Sky Render said:

Yep, that's what a rod end suspension sounds like. Dead quiet for a few weeks or months, until they wear a tiiiiiny bit, then it sounds like someone pushed a tool chest down a flight of stairs every time you hit a bump.

Rod ends = great for racing, not for street use

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Tool chest down a flight of stairs literally made me laugh out loud. I needed that. Lol

Are you using these rod end covers?
I put these on and don't hear anything from the watts link.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sit-rers3

tbrock said:

Are you using these rod end covers?
I put these on and don't hear anything from the watts link.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sit-rers3

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I was. Took them off a few days ago when I took it out and cleaned/greased everything.

Gabe said:

Today I adjusted my yellow Konis in the back down to almost full-soft and drove the car.
Car drove smoother/nicer over bumps, and it took a harsher impact than usual to make my "tool chest down a flight of stairs" noise re-appear.
Got me wondering if the rear shocks might be toast.
They're over 5 years old.

Gonna swap in the wife's OEM GT500 rear shocks and see what happens.
I'd swap in my OEM shocks, but they've been sold for a couple years already.

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Yea, if they are more than 1 day old, I'm gonna bet that at least one of the Konis is blown. Seriously, pull one off and see if it has any Nitrogen. Its easy to check.

video of how to check:
In our testing of probably 30-40 cars we have pulled Konis off of (to install better dampers), we always do this simple test. The average is 2 shocks per car that were dead. No nitrogen or otherwise damaged internally. Some of these were less than 8 weeks old. That's just how these things go.

As for rod ends in your suspension making noise - yep, that's what happens with any real street use.