Dissapointing times

slackinoff

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Like I said from the beginnings....... Your problem is not traction man. Why bother now with suspension parts????? You are launching at a super low rpm, and it's not getting out of the hole....your 60' showed that. Your mph was great and showed you got power.....you need to get that power off the line. It is not a traction issue. Its a power-band issue.
 
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slackinoff

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You said it's a dog down low, and your converter won't let you leave where the power is. Address this issue first.
 

tjm73

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IMO every factory automatic is setup totally wrong for performance. Because... fuel economy and god forbid you feel a shift.
 

06StangGT

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Mmmmm automatic, that's where my advice runs low....If you were stick I would have some clutch slipping advice. You need to foot brake it or something so you leave the line above 3k or right where the limit of traction is. Where you foot braking it?

I'll take some of that advice, it's been a few years since I've been to the track.. and about double the HP
 

skaarlaj

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I'd do a loose converter years before gears, and or a power adder. After the converter, you'll probably be looking at your suspension. With a 2.3 60, but a 100 mph trap says your car really "comes alive" with some rpms. Get those rpm's you're needing for the entire length of the track with a good converter, instead of being a dog right outta the gate.
 

ponys197

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06 auto here as well. I ran a 12.66 @ 107.8 in mine with a Circle D , 1 piece DS , drag radials , BMR Upper / lower , JLT CAI , IMRC Delete and off road X pipe with 3.73 gears.

I recommend the 2011+ BMR Upper and get the 18MM bolt for it as well. Its bigger and longer and is just better than the 2005 - 2010 one.

Also get if you have 17" rims - get a set of M & H RaceMaster drag radials and mount at the track. They fit the stock 17" rim and work great.

The converter will provide the best drop in ET outside of a PD Blower plus you will need it when you put the blower on.

if your keeping the 5R55S get the Trick Flow pan as well - its 2 extra quarts and a dip stick. I have it and it really helps keep temps down at the track for the tranny.

I would say drop Brand B and go with Lito for your tune. I started at 13.9's in my car with a CAI and LCA's on street tires and work my way down to a 12.66 NA without LTH's or cams.

I just went to the dark side and put the Whipple on but it was fun pushing the car NA as far as I could.

As Terry said enjoy racing and your car. Dont chase a number , enjoy the moment.
 

RocketcarX

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Since you already have 4.10s def go to the converter, it will transform the car.
After that I would be after a set of drag radials and drag springs to really improve that 60 foot.
 

TexasBlownV8

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All the suggestions will help (gears, converter, tires, suspension).
With the auto, the 2 biggest things that will help is a better converter and gears.
Tires/wheels will give you a little time improvement, but can't correct for the slow 60'; a converter will be your biggest help. I was only able to get under a 2.0 60' when I got a converter. Talk to the guys at CircleD for your needs :)

As far as rev'ing at the line, I found that it made little difference if was at 1000 rpm or 2500 rpm (with an aftermarket converter); just rev a little above idle and nail it when you take off.

If there is any throttle lag with your tune, do like others have recommended and get ahold of Lito to do your tune. You won't be disappointed!

Most of all, enjoy the process, and the racing! These cars seem to run better in a little cooler weather, like in spring and fall. Learn stuff everytime you go to the track, and you'll get better and faster over time. HAVE FUN!
 

46addict

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Do you have any suspension work done? Trapping 100 for those mods isn't bad at all. If you get your 60' down, it'll be a world of difference. Suspension alone you should be able to get your 60 down to 1.8 or so.

I thought 100mph was stock trap speeds. He should be going at least 106 with the cams, intake, and offroad midpipe. I guess the cams don't really shine until you get longtubes. Not to pour salt in the wound but there are guys deep into the 12s with stock cams and shorty headers/stock manifolds.

IMO traction is key. Better suspension will build a better foundation but if you don't address tires you will still spin. Steeper gears or a converter will make existing traction problems worse, or create problems that didn't exist before. You're going to want a dedicated set of rear wheels and sticky tires (MT ET Street R/Pro Radial, or Hoosier DRs) for the track. I understand these tires aren't cheap but wait and save up if you have to. If you compromise in this area you will end up disappointed and be shopping for tires again soon.
 
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Pentalab

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The BMR adjustable or fixed UCA for the 11+ cars will fit the 05-10 cars... provided you use the mating 11+ UCA mount.

Adjustable UCA with the massive poly bushing https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=944&superpro=0

Don't mess with the Roush LCA's... nor their UCA.

These poly to poly BMR boxed type LCA's work superb. They are 1.25" wide x 2.0" tall box construction.
https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=156&superpro=0


Mating 11+ UCA mount. https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=964&superpro=0

The poly bushing on the 11+ UCA is huge vs the poly bushing on the BMR 05-10 version.

If the car is lowered you need some BMR LCA relocate brackets, otherwise the LCA's will be higher at the axle end..which will create wheel hop. Even if it's not lowered, you want the LCA's to be lower at axle end. With lca's lower at axle end, then you are putting some additional weight onto the rear axle. https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=170&superpro=0 These are 7/16" thick, built like a tank. Unique in that each relocate bracket bolts in 3 places... so no welding required. (steeda version only bolts in 1 place..and does require welding)

I have a 5r55S in my 2010 auto..which came with a 3.31 rear gear. The 5r55S is geared such that it's 14% lower in 2nd gear vs the manual. And 16.5% lower in 3rd gear vs the manual. In 4th gear, they are both 1:1 tranny ratio. You would require a 3.73 rear gear in a manual to equal the 3.31 rear gear in the auto....in 2nd gear. And you would require a 3.90 rear gear in the manual to equal the 3.31 rear gear in the auto..when both ar in 3rd gear.

The 3.73 or 4.10 gear would be effective in 4th gear. With any small blower like a M90 or M122, you will burn the tires off in 1st gear..with just typ 275-285 street tires.

Some simple suspension mods, like uca and LCA relocate brackets should be 1st on the list. Then some stickier tires. Then worry about rear gears and blowers..and possibly a higher stall converter.
 
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06StangGT

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The BMR adjustable or fixed UCA for the 11+ cars will fit the 05-10 cars... provided you use the mating 11+ UCA mount.

Adjustable UCA with the massive poly bushing https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=944&superpro=0

Don't mess with the Roush LCA's... nor their UCA.

These poly to poly BMR boxed type LCA's work superb. They are 1.25" wide x 2.0" tall box construction.
https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=156&superpro=0


Mating 11+ UCA mount. https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=964&superpro=0

The poly bushing on the 11+ UCA is huge vs the poly bushing on the BMR 05-10 version.

If the car is lowered you need some BMR LCA relocate brackets, otherwise the LCA's will be higher at the axle end..which will create wheel hop. Even if it's not lowered, you want the LCA's to be lower at axle end. With lca's lower at axle end, then you are putting some additional weight onto the rear axle. https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=170&superpro=0 These are 7/16" thick, built like a tank. Unique in that each relocate bracket bolts in 3 places... so no welding required. (steeda version only bolts in 1 place..and does require welding


Some really really good info in this post, thanks!
I have steeda 555-4422 adjustable lower control arms currently installed, and the car is lowered on eibach pro kit springs only.

I also have the steeda relocation brackets, not installed.. part 555-8119

So you're suggesting using the BMR relocation brackets instead of the steeda because these do not require welding, correct? Will these brackets fit the Steeda LCA I already have installed?

I also plan to get the Viking Crusader shocks this winter

Thanks!
 

Pentalab

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Some really really good info in this post, thanks!
I have steeda 555-4422 adjustable lower control arms currently installed, and the car is lowered on eibach pro kit springs only.

I also have the steeda relocation brackets, not installed.. part 555-8119

So you're suggesting using the BMR relocation brackets instead of the steeda because these do not require welding, correct? Will these brackets fit the Steeda LCA I already have installed?

I also plan to get the Viking Crusader shocks this winter

Thanks!

From steeda url u just posted.

"This kit is a WELD-IN application for the S197 Mustang platform and is NOT recommended as a bolt in only application. Bolts are included FOR POSITIONING to AID in welding but are NOT be driven on."

Steeda makes good stuff, but their LCA re-locate brackets (IMO) isn't one of them. I looked at both the steeda + the BMR years ago. With the steeda, it's only bolted in one place..then u have to baby it over to the welding shop, realign the bolt on each bracket, make damn sure the brackets are exactly where they are need, then weld em in. Screw that process up, after welding, folks have had the axle not perpendicular to the axis of the car. Then u require adjustable lca's to fix that mess.

The BMR version has that extra chunk of steel going up the back side, so it's bolted on the top of the back side, and twice more on the sides. The BMR version allows for 3 hole positions ( 2-3-4" drop at axle end). I started off with the top hole, then swapped to middle hole a year later, better traction.

Note most of the fixed lca relocation brackets provide for a fixed 3" drop
(same as middle hole on the BMR). The whiteline LCA re-locate bracket as far as I can see, is identical in construction to the BMR unit, except that it only provides for a 3" drop. The FRPP version only bolts in 1 place, and only provides for a 3" drop.

Assuming the lca's are parallel to the ground at stock ride height.... lower the rear by 1"...and now lca's are no longer parallel to the ground. They are higher at axle end = bad news. You would have to lower the rear ends of each lca by 1" just to get the lca's parallel to the ground. With the top hole used in the bmr (2"drop).... then you end up with (2-1=1) lca drop at axle end.

Lousy analogy, but stand on a bathroom scale..and imagine both your arms are lca's. Then push against a wall.... scale doesn't change. Now push down on a counter top, and scale weight reduces. Push on the ( low ceiling) and scale weight increases.

When I 1st lowered the rear ( and also front) by 1"... the car was damned dangerous in the wet /rain. Blow on the gas pedal, on a corner, and u are taking weight off the rear axle... back end kicks out. I lost it 4 times just going to the dentist office a few miles away. Same deal going dead straight in the wet. In went all the BMR stuff, lca's, uca + mating mount, re-locate brackets etc, etc. Ok, now it stuck..using top hole. A year later, dropped to middle hole, as I was slipping sometimes at the top end of 2nd gear. No more wheel hop either. Watch out... opposite of wheel hop is brake hop. I don't have that issue with the middle hole... but could see that happening if the very bottom hole used..and trying to brake from high speeds. Even then. with a stiff front + rear suspension/springs /shocks /struts, I don't have any nose dive on braking.

The BMR unit sits below the axle..so although it's close to the ground, it always clears the ground. IE: go over a speed bump, and the axle plus re-locate brackets rise and fall at the same rate.

And yes, any brand lca will fit the BMR lca re-locate brackets.
 

MustangN2O

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I agree with those recommending some good tires first. No matter how much suspension you upgrade it wont hook you up like some good rubber. We have been 1.40 60' on stock suspension geometry(Solid lowers). This doesn't mean upgraded suspension is not recommended.

A quality torque converter would also wake up ET especially with the factory trans.

Also save your money on the LCA relocation brackets unless you plan on welding them....I have personally almost put my car in to the wall due to a non welded set twisting at launch.
 

Pentalab

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Also save your money on the LCA relocation brackets unless you plan on welding them....I have personally almost put my car in to the wall due to a non welded set twisting at launch.

Did you actually break the BMR lca re-locate brackets ?? I have seen the real old BMR re-locates break, but they have not made those in years. Their newer design, with the 3 hole mount is very strong. Never heard of one breaking (that was not welded), even with high hp, sticky tires and everything else in the mix. The BMR brackets can be welded as well as bolted, but I have only seen that done once in the last few years. But between 3 bolts + welding, it would be virtually indestructible.
 
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MustangN2O

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Did you actually break the BMR lca re-locate brackets ?? I have seen the real old BMR re-locates break, but they have not made those in years. Their newer design, with the 3 hole mount is very strong. Never heard of one breaking (that was not welded), even with high hp, sticky tires and everything else in the mix. The BMR brackets can be welded as well as bolted, but I have only seen that done once in the last few years. But between 3 bolts + welding, it would be virtually indestructible.

I have not used the BMR, so cannot speak for those ones. I have broke 2 other manufacturers including Spohn & Grannatelli. Both of which only added the welding required disclaimer after enough people had failures. It would be great if the BMR are that much stronger for sure. I have had the failures happen on my/friends cars obce the 60' time drop below the 1.55 range.
 

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