So what's the RPM ceiling for an 2011 coyote with oil pump gears and boost??

skaarlaj

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From what I've read, the reciprocating assy. and valve-train are good beyond what the ECU can manage, and at what point should a person set their rpm limiter? I'm also running a Paxton, and not a PD blower btw.

The reason I'm inquiring about this, is because I do nearly all of my Drag racing in the eighth mile primarily, and am considering 2.73's for the rear gears to keep me in 2nd through the traps with my 6R80 and the converter locked. At 7500rpm's in 2'nd gear / 2.34:1, on 28.2" tall radial pros, I should be good for about 98.5mph at the stripe which is above what I've managed to trap as of yet. So If I can manage more power, I can swap to a taller tire enabling me to stay in second, or move my shift point up a hundred at a time, if possible.
 

Wnt2gofst_s550

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Trapping 98 in the 1/8 is really low in a stalled paxton car. That was with stock gears.

Also reliability of the engine is all going to depend on how hard you are pushing it, and the tune.
 
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RocketcarX

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I still think you should go the other way and get into 3rd if you're into the 1/8 and put more effort into your 60 foot.
 

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If your going to push the rpms to 7500 I would do the oil pump gears and a ATI damper to keep the harmonics under control.
 

skaarlaj

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Aready have the oil pump gears and an ATI balancer.
 

skaarlaj

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I still think you should go the other way and get into 3rd if you're into the 1/8 and put more effort into your 60 foot.
Already low 1.6's and (2) 1.5's I think it would be easier to control the launch wheel-spin with higher gearing?

Trapping 98 in the 1/8 is really low in a stalled paxton car. That was with stock gears.


Also reliability of the engine is all going to depend on how hard you are pushing it, and the tune.

Maybe my 8500+' DA has something to do with it?
 

RocketcarX

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Already low 1.6's and (2) 1.5's I think it would be easier to control the launch wheel-spin with higher gearing?



Maybe my 8500+' DA has something to do with it?

If you had more hook you would love the gearing, you will be slower without a power increase to go with your reduced gearing. You will def loose on the 60 foot without also increasing your launch RPM with the taller gear.
 

skaarlaj

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I'm pretty sure I could stall up a lot higher without pushing through the brakes with taller gearing.
 

skaarlaj

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I totally understand the concept of lower gears = more mechanical advantage. I just think the ultra low 4.17 1st gear in these transmissions is almost too much, and harder to control in some instances. Just a quick scenario for you, To gear a T56 car as closely to a 6R80 car with 2.73's, you'd need 4.30 rear gears in the T56 car to be at the same mph, and same rpm running the same size tires through 1st gear. There's a lot of high powered T56 cars, that simply don't run that deep of gears and are plenty fast.

I just don't think non 6R80 Coyote owners realize just how much difference the super low 1st gear actually is. Why doesn't the whole world just change to 4.88's or 5.57's or whatever's the deepest gear for their rear differential and be done?

A car equipped with a C4 auto would have to run 4.56's to have a similar 1st gear ratio, as a 6R80 guy with 2.73's, the 2.73/6R80 car would actually be a little lower geared coming off the line. Would you run 4.88's in a C4 equipped car with over 600rwhp without wheel-tubs, and huge slicks??
 

RocketcarX

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I totally understand the concept of lower gears = more mechanical advantage. I just think the ultra low 4.17 1st gear in these transmissions is almost too much, and harder to control in some instances. Just a quick scenario for you, To gear a T56 car as closely to a 6R80 car with 2.73's, you'd need 4.30 rear gears in the T56 car to be at the same mph, and same rpm running the same size tires through 1st gear. There's a lot of high powered T56 cars, that simply don't run that deep of gears and are plenty fast.

I just don't think non 6R80 Coyote owners realize just how much difference the super low 1st gear actually is. Why doesn't the whole world just change to 4.88's or 5.57's or whatever's the deepest gear for their rear differential and be done?

A car equipped with a C4 auto would have to run 4.56's to have a similar 1st gear ratio, as a 6R80 guy with 2.73's, the 2.73/6R80 car would actually be a little lower geared coming off the line. Would you run 4.88's in a C4 equipped car with over 600rwhp without wheel-tubs, and huge slicks??

If I remember correctly your rear suspension is almost completely stock...yes?
 

skaarlaj

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Well I spent 500 dollars on some adjustable shocks and a BMR upper mount set in the lowest hole, poly differential bushing for the upper control arm, and really didn't see much improvement. low 1.6's, a couple high 1.5's. I just don't want an erector set under my car so I can run similar numbers as I am now. It would remind me too much of the diesel boys with 5 gauges on their pillar and not running any quicker than the guy in the other lane with some 3 letter logo plastered on his intercooler.

Also not really a suspension goody, but I have a BMR sway bar delete for the front, and it does seem to help get more weight transfer to the rear, people in the bleachers were pretty stoked claiming my front wheels came off the ground a time or two, hahaha!
 
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RocketcarX

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Well I spent 500 dollars on some adjustable shocks and a BMR upper mount set in the lowest hole, poly differential bushing for the upper control arm, and really didn't see much improvement. low 1.6's, a couple high 1.5's. I just don't want an erector set under my car so I can run similar numbers as I am now. It would remind me too much of the diesel boys with 5 gauges on their pillar and not running any quicker than the guy in the other lane with some 3 letter logo plastered on his intercooler.

Also not really a suspension goody, but I have a BMR sway bar delete for the front, and it does seem to help get more weight transfer to the rear, people in the bleachers were pretty stoked claiming my front wheels came off the ground a time or two, hahaha!

What shocks?
What springs are you on?

Put that upper control arm back in the "stock" location hole.

The lower control arms should have been your first upgrade, that and LCA relocation brackets

I cannot communicate how much you are fucking yourself by not having BMR drag springs, it will be the largest single suspension change you make and see measurable improvements.
 

skaarlaj

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What shocks?
What springs are you on?

Put that upper control arm back in the "stock" location hole.

The lower control arms should have been your first upgrade, that and LCA relocation brackets

I cannot communicate how much you are fucking yourself by not having BMR drag springs, it will be the largest single suspension change you make and see measurable improvements.

BMR suggested the BMR Upper mount in the lowest hole?

I'm still on the stock springs, The BMR drag springs aren't that expensive, but I'm already sick of having these non-stock parts and having the same as stock 60' times. I might just try your suggestion on the springs one of these days. Oh and the shocks are double adjustable Vikings.
 

RocketcarX

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BMR suggested the BMR Upper mount in the lowest hole?

I'm still on the stock springs, The BMR drag springs aren't that expensive, but I'm already sick of having these non-stock parts and having the same as stock 60' times. I might just try your suggestion on the springs one of these days. Oh and the shocks are double adjustable Vikings.

I would bet money the springs with your current set up and preferably the strange front struts will HOOK once you set the shock valving correctly.
Even the cheapest rear control arms would help solidify the mix.
 

skaarlaj

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Well, since I already have the expensive shocks and a few other bits, it probably won't be long before I have every possible aftermarket piece under there, and running maybe 3 tenths quicker 60' than stock, lol.
 

RocketcarX

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Well, since I already have the expensive shocks and a few other bits, it probably won't be long before I have every possible aftermarket piece under there, and running maybe 3 tenths quicker 60' than stock, lol.

you lol, but them springs gonna make you a believer, lol
 

skaarlaj

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you lol, but them springs gonna make you a believer, lol
I'll probably try them before the season's done. What should I be expecting for a 60' out of my car, I'm sure its right around 4000#'s with me in it, and maybe 550 to the wheels when I'm running at my track I usually go to?
 
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