What have you done to your mustang today?

In search of elimination of my vibrations, I removed the front wheel spacers, checked the frontend, all tight.
Also measured my wheelbase, driver side 107" 9/16, passenger side 107" 7/8 which is 5/16" longer.
Car has Steeda billet rear LCAs, CHE relo brackets, BMR Watts Link, BMR adjustable UCA.
How likely is it that my high speed driveline vibration could be caused by the wheelbase being uneven side to side?

Gabe said:

In search of elimination of my vibrations, I removed the front wheel spacers, checked the frontend, all tight.
Also measured my wheelbase, driver side 107" 9/16, passenger side 107" 7/8 which is 5/16" longer.
Car has Steeda billet rear LCAs, CHE relo brackets, BMR Watts Link, BMR adjustable UCA.
How likely is it that my high speed driveline vibration could be caused by the wheelbase being uneven side to side?

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It's possible because it's trying to make a left turn. Not as bad as NASCAR but not true. Are your relo brackets welded on? Make sure they haven't moved or got tweeked after all the auto Xs and that power your making. I would also check the LCA bushing.
I would find a center point, say the middle of the trans mount (measure to be sure the mark is in the center) and measure to the top and bottom of the relo brackets.

travelers said:

It's possible because it's trying to make a left turn. Not as bad as NASCAR but not true. Are your relo brackets welded on? Make sure they haven't moved or got tweeked after all the auto Xs and that power your making. I would also check the LCA bushing.
I would find a center point, say the middle of the trans mount (measure to be sure the mark is in the center) and measure to the top and bottom of the relo brackets.

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Cool, thanks, I'll see what I find out

It may just be the piece of shit Gertrag gearbox. Mine has had a clunk since 2 months after buying the car, makes me hate driving it sometimes. A constant reminder that Ford always cheaps out.

skwerl said:

It may just be the piece of shit Gertrag gearbox. Mine has had a clunk since 2 months after buying the car, makes me hate driving it sometimes. A constant reminder that Ford always cheaps out.

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Thought about that, but no money to make a change these days.
If I had spare cash I'd probably just trade in for a Shelby

Tried Meguiar's Ultimate Compound. Still had light swirl marks that just wouldn't go away.

They can be a bitch sometimes

Gabe said:

In search of elimination of my vibrations, I removed the front wheel spacers, checked the frontend, all tight.
Also measured my wheelbase, driver side 107" 9/16, passenger side 107" 7/8 which is 5/16" longer.
Car has Steeda billet rear LCAs, CHE relo brackets, BMR Watts Link, BMR adjustable UCA.
How likely is it that my high speed driveline vibration could be caused by the wheelbase being uneven side to side?

Click to expand...

I think it's fairly unlikely. Factory spec is up to .5" variance from side to side, so you're still within spec.

BMR Tech 2 said:

I think it's fairly unlikely. Factory spec is up to .5" variance from side to side, so you're still within spec.

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That may be true with the stock soft LCA bushing but with poly I would think that would make a difference.

I figured out I have a coolant leak in the valley of my 3 valve. Shit. I don't feel like taking off the manifold just for that.

rocky61201 said:

I figured out I have a coolant leak in the valley of my 3 valve. Shit. I don't feel like taking off the manifold just for that.

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I know exactly how you feel. I have a tiny oil leak in my front seal which is very minor to the point where my oil level isn't affected but a leak is a leak.

We'll that wasn't so bad. If you have a coolant leak in the valley of your 3 valve it is most likely from the coolant pipe going into the engine block directly behind the water pump. The other coolant pipe connects to the coolant crossover via rubber hose so it is not prone to leaking. The pipe prone to leaking has two small o-ring seals you can find at most part stores.

The only thing you have to remove to get at it and do the repair is the battery and battery tray to access the 13mm bolt at the back of the passenger cylinder head. This bolt secures the heater hose hard lines to the engine. Then remove the intake/throttle body and just the alternator and set it aside on the passenger inner fender. The intake manifold does not have to come off!!!

Also, if you are smarter than me then you will drain some coolant via the radiator petcock before disconnecting the heater hose hard lines. I didn't think I would lose that much being at the top of the motor and all, but probably lost about two gallons spilled in the engine valley when I disconnected the lines. All of that drained thru the small hole in the valley at the back of the engine block and then on the garage floor.

I received my nGauge and JLT cai. I'm just waiting on my Lund tunes to arrive to install everything. I also cleaned it up.

travelers said:

That may be true with the stock soft LCA bushing but with poly I would think that would make a difference.

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This seems to be going around. I did mine two weekends ago....the fix did not last long. I am going to cut several inches from the pipe and do a coolant hose with clamps. That should hold better.

Rm

Well I didn't do anything necessarily, but my body shop guy is doing a few things this week. pics to come

slackinoff said:

This seems to be going around. I did mine two weekends ago....the fix did not last long. I am going to cut several inches from the pipe and do a coolant hose with clamps. That should hold better.

Rm

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Yup mine is still leaking too, just not as bad as before. I found that as long as I have the HVAC temperature set all the way to hot it relieves pressure on the system because the heater valve is now in the open position letting hot coolant flow threw the heater core instead of being closed and increasing pressure in the heater hoses. I could be wrong it just seems that way because it slows down the drip at the source of the leak.

When I was doing the repair I wanted to do the exact same thing and cut the pipe and put a hose with clamps in place. Just didn't have the right stuff lying around at the time.

I'm thinking about removing that o-ringed pipe pressed into the block behind the water pump, tapping the hole and putting in a proper barbed fitting. Then cut the coolant pipe and put a proper flare on the end. Then join the two with a hose w/clamps. Should be more reliable than that damned o-ring.

IIRC that exact same procedure is what you do when installing a whipple or one of those magnacharger superchargers they stop making for 3 valves.

slackinoff said:

This seems to be going around. I did mine two weekends ago....the fix did not last long. I am going to cut several inches from the pipe and do a coolant hose with clamps. That should hold better.



Rm

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Tasca has the hose assembly for $55. Ask me how I know! I spent more on antifreeze in the last year than the part! Hearing the lack of success repairing these, I feel better about getting a new one. I should have it by Friday. I decided to replace the radiator hoses also but one was back ordered and just came in, delaying my shipment.

Installed BMR 2011+ UCA and mount on my 2006 Mustang GT. Now the only thing left non-BMR is the sway bar on my rear suspension.

Just ordered a new pair of 305/40/18 Nitto 555R drag radials.
$561 shipped from Discount Tire Direct on eBay.
Better than the $302/each they list them for on their site.
Quickly got tired of the lack of traction from the 285/40/18 Goodyear F1's that I've had on the back of the car for a few weeks now, and the sale pushed me off the fence.

You can get Michelin Pilot Super Sports for that money. I can't believe how well they grip. I easily hit over 1.1 G's on the built in g-force meter on the dash doing a controlled stop with stock brakes and not skidding the tires.