Sky Render's Build Thread

Boone

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I like that you don't have a ton of slaloms like our local organizers have. I think they always want the go carts to win PAX, and end up screwing the CAM class.

As for the 1st corner, when I can't figure one out, throw it away and set yourself up optimally for the 2nd corner. At least you have a gain to offset the loss. Good luck, and let us know how it goes.
 

Sky Render

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Thanks for the encouragement, fellas. I actually had to work a lot at being smooth last season. They called me Stabby McStabberson because of my abrupt control inputs. So hearing my driving be described as "smooth" is a huge compliment!

Drained the catch cans. After about 1,000 miles and two autocrosses, I got next to nothing out of the driver-side can and this out of the passenger-side:

IMG_20170416_193716.jpg


EDIT: That's the bottom half of a 16-oz water bottle. That's the easiest way I've found to drain the catch cans; you just hold that underneath them and turn the drain petcock.
 
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oldVOR

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I had Jake M. ride along with me on my last session and he said I was modulating the throttle good (sans the spin in the prior session) and could shave time by being alot more aggressive on the brakes and running deeper into the turn before getting on them.

BTW, the detail job you did looked great in person!
 

Sky Render

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I had Jake M. ride along with me on my last session and he said I was modulating the throttle good (sans the spin in the prior session) and could shave time by being alot more aggressive on the brakes and running deeper into the turn before getting on them.

BTW, the detail job you did looked great in person!

Wait, who is this?
 

DudeStang

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I've enjoyed reading through this thread the past couple of days and I'm sure I'll refer to it again as I continue to research parts for my Stang. It didn't occur to me until I saw the video from Frederick, 4-15-17 but I saw your car at least once at Harry Grove last year. Thanks for sharing this process.
 

Thenorm

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Today's best run. First place in the"Muscle Car" class.

I could NOT figure out that first corner. I think I lost at least a second there.



Test & Tune is tomorrow, same course. Help me figure out that damn corner!

do u have a pic of the course map? I couldnt draw the map in my mind watching the vid.

I know its too late to help with that corner, but I would have suggested a point and shoot style. accel hard off the line. set up where u were. hard on the brakes, tight corner, get it straight ASAP, so u can WOT longer.

I agree with the previous post somewhere ^^ that said brake harder, deeper.
less stabby is good too. squeeze coming out of the corners. I find once i get to 1/2 or 3/4 throttle i can just go WOT as it wont upset the car anymore. Getting on the throttle properly to put power has been my biggest challenge in the mustang. Its also the biggest challenge for any body driving my car. They all spin.
 
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Sky Render

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This photo sequence shows moderate body roll in a high-speed slalom element. It also shows that I need a higher color temperature bulb for my factory HID, because that looks slightly weird next to the LEDs.

20170415-MAW_6665.jpg


20170415-MAW_6666.jpg


20170415-MAW_6667.jpg


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I think the body roll is very good for a dual-purpose car. But both my bars are on full soft, so I'm thinking of tightening both by a notch and see how it will do. Thoughts?
 

Thenorm

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I think the body roll is very good for a dual-purpose car. But both my bars are on full soft, so I'm thinking of tightening both by a notch and see how it will do. Thoughts?

my first thought was stiffen the front and leave the back.

do you ever get understeer? if not keep stiffening the front until you just start to, then you are at the point where you can really get on the gas coming out of corners, and can esentially steer with the thottle.
if you are understeer on corner entry or mid corner, and can't mitigate it by proper braking and weight transfer, then back it off a notch.
 

Sky Render

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my first thought was stiffen the front and leave the back.

do you ever get understeer? if not keep stiffening the front until you just start to, then you are at the point where you can really get on the gas coming out of corners, and can esentially steer with the thottle.
if you are understeer on corner entry or mid corner, and can't mitigate it by proper braking and weight transfer, then back it off a notch.

My car is neutral through all parts of the corner; that's why I thought of tightening both. Honestly, I quite like how it handles and wouldn't change anything, but I'm wondering if I should get rid of a bit more of that roll.
 

Norm Peterson

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About 25% - 35% of that "body roll" is coming from differential tire deflection, and that portion of the total roll (at a rough guess, 0.7°/g plus/minus a bit depending on tire size and inflation) will remain unaffected by changes in suspension roll stiffness.

Something to keep in mind.


Norm
 

Sky Render

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About 25% - 35% of that "body roll" is coming from differential tire deflection, and that portion of the total roll (at a rough guess, 0.7°/g plus/minus a bit depending on tire size and inflation) will remain unaffected by changes in suspension roll stiffness.

Something to keep in mind.


Norm

Mmm, very true. Maybe I should "leave well enough alone." Ha. I'm terrible at that!
 

oldVOR

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What bars and springs are you using?
Without going back through your posts, I recall White Line at one point but think you changed up to BMR last year, maybe?
 

Sky Render

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I have the very stiff BMR 5-way adjustable up front and the janky Whiteline adjustable in the rear, only because I can't get the adjustable rear BMR bar to fit.
 

Sky Render

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Why won't the BMR bar fit? I recall you had exhaust clearance issues, still the same issue?

Yeah, the passenger-side drop link hits the axle-back. I've tried both Corsa and Roush. It hits on both, and I have no idea why. No one else seems to have this issue.
 

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I have the very stiff BMR 5-way adjustable up front and the janky Whiteline adjustable in the rear, only because I can't get the adjustable rear BMR bar to fit.

Vince, why is the WL rear bar janky?

-Gabe
 

Sky Render

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Vince, why is the WL rear bar janky?

-Gabe

I had an issue with the stock mounting hardware failing. It wouldn't have been that big a deal, but Whiteline refused to send me a replacement part even when I offered to pay for it. So I had to order replacement bolts from McMaster Carr.

Now, other people have had better experience with Whiteline, but that's not the first time they wouldn't support me (nor the first failure I've had with Whiteline), so I'm not their biggest fan.

The replacement bolts I ordered are strong enough to pick up the whole car by, LOL
 

Thenorm

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My car is neutral through all parts of the corner; that's why I thought of tightening both. Honestly, I quite like how it handles and wouldn't change anything, but I'm wondering if I should get rid of a bit more of that roll.

never know if it feels better or worse unless you try it.

try stiffen the rear only, try stiffen the fron only, try both.

that test n tune you had would have been an ideal time to do this...
 

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