Deck stain peeling....AGAIN!!

Shotokan1509

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Also interested, mine is painted I'm assuming power wash then sand but want to know what product won't peel
 

Johnf78

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I'm about to redo my deck. Timmbo - how's that Deckover held up?

Since I'm replacing the floor of the deck with new pressure treated wood, how long should I wait until I stain it?

Approximately a month, new pressure treated isn't nearly as wet as it used to be.
Make sure to gap the boards properly and have all the end grains " smiling"

Do a water test on the deck. Pour a little water on there and see if it soaks in or beads up. If it beads up, any coating you put on will just lay on the top and eventually fail. Also, if it beads up, the wood could be dry enough but you could have mill glaze on the boards, that will not go away unless you sand (never finer than 80 grit or you will close the pores of the wood) or use a mill glaze remover.

I also wouldn't use a product like deck over on a new deck. Those types of products are mostly used for older decks in rough shape, kinda of a buy a little more time until you replace kind of thing.
 

Shotokan1509

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Are you sure it is painted or solid stain? Do you have any pics of the deck?

You're right, there's an empty can here and it's solid stain, don't know if this was touchups or whole thing but date Sept 2012. Deck is older and reaching end of life but I think with good paint job can get at least few more years out of it. It's decent amount of deck and I've spent decent amount on other things recently, including cutting down trees next to the lower side which it now gets sun and hopefully won't moss or whatever over again. I will replace individual boards as needed, like that white painted step is splitting. Please excuse the mess, have a bunch of projects going at once. Is the current product good, and is there anything to the idea better to stick with where I am just applying over old (like the uprights I won't plan to sand)
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Johnf78

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You're right, there's an empty can here and it's solid stain, don't know if this was touchups or whole thing but date Sept 2012. Deck is older and reaching end of life but I think with good paint job can get at least few more years out of it. It's decent amount of deck and I've spent decent amount on other things recently, including cutting down trees next to the lower side which it now gets sun and hopefully won't moss or whatever over again. I will replace individual boards as needed, like that white painted step is splitting. Please excuse the mess, have a bunch of projects going at once. Is the current product good, and is there anything to the idea better to stick with where I am just applying over old (like the uprights I won't plan to sand)

That product should work just fine, your problem is to much moisture. it should help that you have removed some of the trees. The gap between the deck boards is to tight right now, not allowing the proper ventilation. Like timmbo did you can get a skill saw and cut the gaps to 1. Make them wider and 2. Remove the stuff jammed between them. You can also flip any boards that have the end grain "frowning" Get a good deck cleaner that will remove mold and mildew and wash the deck good. Sand any bare spots with 80 grit. Let it dry good and reapply the stain.
 

skwerl

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Maybe you can blow up those pics a little bigger? I can't quite see the ant's asshole on the third step.
:sunot:
 

Shotokan1509

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That product should work just fine, your problem is to much moisture. it should help that you have removed some of the trees. The gap between the deck boards is to tight right now, not allowing the proper ventilation. Like timmbo did you can get a skill saw and cut the gaps to 1. Make them wider and 2. Remove the stuff jammed between them. You can also flip any boards that have the end grain "frowning" Get a good deck cleaner that will remove mold and mildew and wash the deck good. Sand any bare spots with 80 grit. Let it dry good and reapply the stain.

I was considering renting one of the floor sanders and going over the whole thing back down to wood, 1 to strip it and 2 to sand out the rough spots/splinters. Overkill?

Maybe you can blow up those pics a little bigger? I can't quite see the ant's asshole on the third step.
:sunot:

Ha they auto-resize for me. And there better not be any damn ants, I had the exterminator come in for them :flame:
 

Johnf78

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I was considering renting one of the floor sanders and going over the whole thing back down to wood, 1 to strip it and 2 to sand out the rough spots/splinters. Overkill?

Not useless at all, just won't help in the long run unless you improve the ventilation problem. Nothing finer than 80 grit, you want to open the pores up.
 

Fullboogie

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Approximately a month, new pressure treated isn't nearly as wet as it used to be.
Make sure to gap the boards properly and have all the end grains " smiling"

Do a water test on the deck. Pour a little water on there and see if it soaks in or beads up. If it beads up, any coating you put on will just lay on the top and eventually fail. Also, if it beads up, the wood could be dry enough but you could have mill glaze on the boards, that will not go away unless you sand (never finer than 80 grit or you will close the pores of the wood) or use a mill glaze remover.

I also wouldn't use a product like deck over on a new deck. Those types of products are mostly used for older decks in rough shape, kinda of a buy a little more time until you replace kind of thing.

What product do you suggest? Only the walking surface will be replaced. The rest of the deck is in good shape, but is 10 years old. That would include the frame, rails, and supports. What would work on both the old and the new?
 

Johnf78

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What product do you suggest? Only the walking surface will be replaced. The rest of the deck is in good shape, but is 10 years old. That would include the frame, rails, and supports. What would work on both the old and the new?

What is on the other parts now? Semi-transparent, semi solid, solid?

Normally I suggest going the most transparent you can on new wood, a little more maintenance but less likely to peel. In a case like yours, most of the time you need go less transparent so that everything will match.
 

Johnf78

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Nothing on the old stuff. It's bare treated wood.

For the old wood you can wash with a product called restore and follow up with a washing of brighten, to neutralize the restore and help to get the wood looking new again.

http://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/for-your-home/paint-products/exterior-stain-prep-products

Then depending on how good the old stuff looks compared to the new will dictate what product to use to get it all to blend together. If it all blends nicely you can use a transparent or semi transparent stain. If there is to much of a difference a semi solid might work better for you. Benjamin Moore makes an excellent oil based stain that comes in all three. It is in the Arborcoat line and is their classic oil finish.

http://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/...ducts/benjamin-moore-arborcoat-exterior-stain

Hope this helps.
 

joe_momma

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So to clear up - if PT wood "soaks" up rain, then it is ready for staining? I just put down a new deck this spring, and it looks like it is soaking up rain pretty good now.
 

Johnf78

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So to clear up - if PT wood "soaks" up rain, then it is ready for staining? I just put down a new deck this spring, and it looks like it is soaking up rain pretty good now.

Yes, PT is no where near as wet as it used to be.
 

Fullboogie

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I sure hope you know what you're talking about and not some kid in your grandmother's basement giving out advice! LOL
 

Fullboogie

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Thanks for all the advice. I just pictured an evil teenager telling us all the wrong stuff.
 

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