09 GT Road Race/Autocross Build

kellen4six · Dec 8, 2016

I purchase a 2009 GT base model 5 speed bone stock in the summer 2016. I have started building and will use the car for road racing, autocross, drag, and just an all around well performing mustang. I changed the fluids and filters and seafoamed the engine and fuel system. Mods so far include....

Performance/Power:
Pypes Pype Bomb Axle Back
JLT Series 3 cold air intake
Steeda CMCV Delete Plugs
SR Performance 62mm Throttle Body
SR Performance Coil Plugs
NGK Spark Plugs
JLT 3.0 Oil Separator/catch can
BAMA tuned with SCT X4

Drivetrain/Suspension:
Dynotech One Piece Aluminum Driveshaft
Centric drilled and slotted rotors
SMR front strut tower brace
J&M Rear Upper control arm
Hellwig Adjustable front sway bar
MGW Shifter

Appearance/Aero:
Roush front fascia
MMD by Foose grill
2nd Gen Headlights
OPT7 HID headlights
OPT7 interior and exterior LED conversion bulbs
LED fog lights
S550 Black pony badge on decklid (removed GT gas cap badge)
AM black front signal light tint
Chrome Oil dipstick handle
8 inch antenna

Mods planned for the winter:
Sumitomo HTR ZIII tires
Bassani X pipe
Whiteline adjustable rear sway bar and endlinks
Strange adjustable rear shocks
BMR rear lower control arms
Roush front chin spoiler and splitter
Steeda G trac brace
Mishimoto Aluminum Radiator
SR Performance Radiator Fan and shroud
Moroso Aluminum coolant expansion tank
Mishimoto Oil Cooler
Ford Racing 47 lb fuel injectors
Weight reduction following this link http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10942

Pictures following soon..

Speedboosted · Dec 11, 2016

kellen4six said:
I purchase a 2009 GT base model 5 speed bone stock in the summer 2016. I have started building and will use the car for road racing, autocross, drag, and just an all around well performing mustang. I changed the fluids and filters and seafoamed the engine and fuel system. Mods so far include....

Performance/Power:
Pypes Pype Bomb Axle Back
JLT Series 3 cold air intake
Steeda CMCV Delete Plugs
SR Performance 62mm Throttle Body
SR Performance Coil Plugs
NGK Spark Plugs
JLT 3.0 Oil Separator/catch can
BAMA tuned with SCT X4

Drivetrain/Suspension:
Dynotech One Piece Aluminum Driveshaft
Centric drilled and slotted rotors
SMR front strut tower brace
J&M Rear Upper control arm
Hellwig Adjustable front sway bar
MGW Shifter

Appearance/Aero:
Roush front fascia
MMD by Foose grill
2nd Gen Headlights
OPT7 HID headlights
OPT7 interior and exterior LED conversion bulbs
LED fog lights
S550 Black pony badge on decklid (removed GT gas cap badge)
AM black front signal light tint
Chrome Oil dipstick handle
8 inch antenna

Mods planned for the winter:
Sumitomo HTR ZIII tires
Bassani X pipe
Whiteline adjustable rear sway bar and endlinks
Strange adjustable rear shocks
BMR rear lower control arms
Roush front chin spoiler and splitter
Steeda G trac brace
Mishimoto Aluminum Radiator
SR Performance Radiator Fan and shroud
Moroso Aluminum coolant expansion tank
Mishimoto Oil Cooler
Ford Racing 47 lb fuel injectors
Weight reduction following this link http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10942

Pictures following soon..

Why are you doing injectors on an NA car?

Hold off on every single one of those "upcoming mods" until you know what your car needs. And if you don't know what it needs, go out on track. Skip the Sumitomo tires, there couldn't be a worse tire out there. Oh, and add DOT 4 brake fluid before tracking.

Norm Peterson · Dec 11, 2016

kellen4six said:
I purchase a 2009 GT base model 5 speed bone stock in the summer 2016. I have started building and will use the car for road racing, autocross, drag, and just an all around well performing mustang. I changed the fluids and filters and seafoamed the engine and fuel system. Mods so far include....

Have you given any thought to what autocross class those mods will send it to? Or have you made a firm decision that classing isn't going to matter to you, that you really are in it just for the fun and experience?

Unlike HPDE and most drag racing, autocross isn't set up as a "run what you brung" sport where you hope you brought more than the cars/drivers that you'll be competing directly against.

SCCA Solo (autocross) rules can be downloaded here . . . you'll want the 2017 edition even though it's only in draft form at this point. Many non-SCCA clubs follow generally similar classing rules.

https://www.scca.com/pages/solo-cars-and-rules

Norm

kellen4six · Dec 11, 2016

Norm Peterson said:
Have you given any thought to what autocross class those mods will send it to? Or have you made a firm decision that classing isn't going to matter to you, that you really are in it just for the fun and experience?

Unlike HPDE and most drag racing, autocross isn't set up as a "run what you brung" sport where you hope you brought more than the cars/drivers that you'll be competing directly against.

SCCA Solo (autocross) rules can be downloaded here . . . you'll want the 2017 edition even though it's only in draft form at this point. Many non-SCCA clubs follow generally similar classing rules.

https://www.scca.com/pages/solo-cars-and-rules

Norm

Wont be with SCCA. All for fun with local tracks and local car clubs.

Norm Peterson · Dec 12, 2016

Since I see no mention of upgraded brake pads, count on "outgrowing" the OE brake pads pretty quickly - maybe even on your first track day if they're OE-replacement level pads from mass-market stores. Generally, you'll need to have at least 50% friction material thickness on all pads before passing tech to be out on the road courses at HPDE. Plan on getting pads rated for your level of track duty, and whether you keep them on and deal with dust, some noise, and possibly softer braking bite when cold - or swap them out for more streetable pads (preferably from the same pad mfr) is going to be your call.

The 'regular GT' rotor size will be adequate for a while, but for track time I really can't recommend drilled. Plain or slotted-only. In any case, you will have to keep an eye on rotor condition. Rotors will heat-check (kind of a fine spider-webby pattern of surface cracking), and if you can catch a fingernail in any of them it's time to replace both rotors on that axle. Same goes for any cracking emanating directly from any drilled hole.

Bleed your brakes before each track event.

Norm

oldVOR · Dec 12, 2016

^^^^ Good sound advice right there ^^^^

kellen4six · Dec 12, 2016

Norm Peterson said:
Since I see no mention of upgraded brake pads, count on "outgrowing" the OE brake pads pretty quickly - maybe even on your first track day if they're OE-replacement level pads from mass-market stores. Generally, you'll need to have at least 50% friction material thickness on all pads before passing tech to be out on the road courses at HPDE. Plan on getting pads rated for your level of track duty, and whether you keep them on and deal with dust, some noise, and possibly softer braking bite when cold - or swap them out for more streetable pads (preferably from the same pad mfr) is going to be your call.

The 'regular GT' rotor size will be adequate for a while, but for track time I really can't recommend drilled. Plain or slotted-only. In any case, you will have to keep an eye on rotor condition. Rotors will heat-check (kind of a fine spider-webby pattern of surface cracking), and if you can catch a fingernail in any of them it's time to replace both rotors on that axle. Same goes for any cracking emanating directly from any drilled hole.

Bleed your brakes before each track event.

Norm

Thanks Norm. I have hawk pads and motul 600 fluid to add.

Norm Peterson · Dec 13, 2016

Which Hawk pads?

The older HPS isn't enough pad for anything past an easy introductory day or two (emphasis on 'easy'), the performance ceramics even less so, HP+ will devour your rotors in street driving, don't know anything about the newer HPS 5.0 or Hawk's dedicated track pads.

Norm

Sky Render · Dec 13, 2016

OP, your mod list is facepalm-inducing. Did you actually approach this from a system standpoint, or did you just go on American Muscle and start adding crap to your build list?

Norm Peterson said:
Which Hawk pads?

The older HPS isn't enough pad for anything past an easy introductory day or two (emphasis on 'easy'), the performance ceramics even less so, HP+ will devour your rotors in street driving, don't know anything about the newer HPS 5.0 or Hawk's dedicated track pads.

Norm

Norm-

"Standard" Hawk HPS pads are meh.

Hawk HPS 5.0 are great pads for street and autocross. They are sufficient for road course use if it is a simple track day.

Hawk HP+ pads create more dust than anything else, suck on the street, and suck on the track.

Some people like their more-aggressive race compounds; I haven't personally used any of them.

Norm Peterson · Dec 13, 2016

Sky Render said:
Norm-

"Standard" Hawk HPS pads are meh.

I know. While the standard HPS pads were a decent upgrade on the Mazda 626 I used to own and on the Maxima that I still do have, they weren't any better than OE replacement on my '08 GT. The Maxima now runs Carbotech Bobcat/1521 pads and is better for it.

Some people like their more-aggressive race compounds; I haven't personally used any of them.

It's pretty easy to get spoiled once you've run a set . . . braking starts happening right now from the instant you first step on the brake pedal. Having a semblance of pedal modulation skill is what you need to bring to the table, as a stomp/stab/steer attitude isn't going to work well.

Norm

noldevin · Dec 13, 2016

Norm's advice is solid. But that build list really does look like you got an email from american muscle and hit "add all to cart"

I'd bring the car to some events and address stuff as your seat time tells you what you need. You definitely don't need a chrome dipstick lol

Speedboosted · Dec 14, 2016

noldevin said:
Norm's advice is solid. But that build list really does look like you got an email from american muscle and hit "add all to cart"

I'd bring the car to some events and address stuff as your seat time tells you what you need. You definitely don't need a chrome dipstick lol

Lol, this was 100% what I felt when I first read the OP.

Boone · Dec 15, 2016

OP, before you start thinking we are all cynical douchbags, keep in mind you posted this on the Corner Carvers forum. In general, if a modification doesn't make your Mustang faster or handle better, guys who hang out here don't care, or even despise it because in most cases it adds weight.

That said, you know going in you're creating a compromise car for show, autoX, road course, and the strip. Start reading all the info you can on the forums to get a feel for what mods actually work/help/perform. I only had to get to the part where you had a 62mm TB to know where this thread was going. I hope you saved your stock 55mm setup. You'll be needing it.

Trim the fat on your list as deep as possible, and get a real differential and as much sticky rubbber as you can on the car. Then all you have to do is make it turn and look good. They guys on the Corner Carver forum can definitely help you with the former, and the latter is all up to you.

I can appreciate what you're doing with your car. I don't go to the strip, but I do shoot for all the other targets you're going for. Best of luck with your build.

Roadracer350 · Dec 16, 2016

Bro, like everyone else here throw that list in the trash. Get you some good adjustable front and rear sways, good shocks and struts or coilovers , good tyres and brakes. If you cant afford the GT500 Brembo upgrade (should if you stop trying to buy junk) put in some good pads and maybe the Vorshlag 3" brake ducts. The biggest mod after that is seat time. Don't look at the advice here and think "man those guys are assholes" look at it as most of these guys on here has YEARS of experience on the track. Everyone will argue over brand and application (DO NOT MENTION WATTS LINKS OR TORQUE ARMS PLEASE!!!!!) but the overall advice is very sound.

CammedS197 · Dec 17, 2016

Guys not to take from the OP. Just a brake question. I've noticed sometimes my brake pedal is really firm and braking is instant and almost no pedal travel then sometimes it's a lot of travel but braking power is still the same just needs more effort. Better than I was before new rotors, pads, and lines. Lines are boss, rotors are centric premium, and pads are the stop tech pads that are rated at like 1500+degrees all four corners were done and all fluid was replaced. I love these pads so much, braking is awesome but dust is crazy. I've never tried out any other pads btw, straight from OE replacement and factory rotors to this set up. But I will say of looking for nice set of pads and dust is no issue I recommend these.

kcbrown · Dec 18, 2016

Stoptech pads are actually good to about 1300 degrees

You're experiencing brake fade. First order of business is to get cooling ducts. If they continue to fade after that, then you'll need more heat resistant pads (Carbotech, PFC, etc.).

This assumes you're using proper brake fluid (Motul, Castrol SRF, etc.). If you're not then a proper fluid should go to the front of the list.

Unless you're running a supercharged setup or are on slicks with a proper racing suspension setup, the stock Brembo 4-piston brake setup is plenty good for these cars.

I run the Stoptech pads myself and like them quite a lot. I've managed to get them to fade some even with ducting but I have to work at it. The falloff is gradual enough that it hasn't bothered me yet.

(Sent with Tapatalk, so apologies for the lackluster formatting)

Norm Peterson · Dec 18, 2016

CammedS197 said:
Guys not to take from the OP. Just a brake question. I've noticed sometimes my brake pedal is really firm and braking is instant and almost no pedal travel then sometimes it's a lot of travel but braking power is still the same just needs more effort.

More actual force on the pedal or just that you need to move it further? If it's only that you need to move the pedal further, it's probably pad knock-back.

Norm

CammedS197 · Dec 18, 2016

Norm Peterson said:
More actual force on the pedal or just that you need to move it further? If it's only that you need to move the pedal further, it's probably pad knock-back.

Norm

That's exactly what it is! What in the heck is that and why or how does it happen? I've seen it mentioned before. But yeah has all the bite but just pedal travel is farther and pedal feels squishy and then other times it's so instant and pedal is solid and no squish that it gives me a little whip lash, but it seems like I may have to add more pedal pressure but probably because of extra pedal travel but bite is all there. Can the pad moving along the clip with no grease cause any different feeling in braking? Pretty sure with all this crap weather and hurricane here in FL it's gone and very dry in that spot. Every now and then I get a weird shudder in the pedal and let out push back on and fine again. Almost like the pistons weren't moving out at the same exact time and trying to twist the pad but I've checked them and they look perfect.

Definitely not fade, no way on earth I've got them that hot yet. Only did some really spiritual driving twice and found where I need to upgrade my suspension aka shocks and struts and the tramling feeling Norm told me about.

Thanks, couldn't remember for the life of me but I knew it was pretty high and they are to me a great everything pad. With my experience in turning I won't fade these for awhile and still got the cold bite.

Norm Peterson · Dec 18, 2016

Axial end-play for axle shafts can allow the rotors to move in/out slightly under cornering loads, uneven rotor heating can distort the rotors out of plane (think into a very flat cone). Either situation will try to push the piston(s) back into their bores slightly (and the fluid back toward the M/C reservoir). There's probably other causes.

Norm

SoundGuyDave · Dec 18, 2016

Bad wheel bearings up front will do that as well with the Brembo brakes. As will dirty/stuck caliper slide pins with the 13" setup)...

All basic maintenance stuff.

09 GT Road Race/Autocross Build

Junior Member

Found missing cylinders

corner barstool sitter

Junior Member

corner barstool sitter

forum member

Junior Member

corner barstool sitter

Stig's Retarded Cousin

corner barstool sitter

forum member

Found missing cylinders

Automotive Enthusiast

forum member

forum member

forum member

corner barstool sitter

forum member

corner barstool sitter

This Space For Rent

Similar threads

Support us!

Sponsor Links