S197 408 Windsor swap

Rokkit

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i hope u dnt have a prob with ppl askn questions... but i would like to start off by saying nice job and looks good.. i also have a s197 and was thinking of doing the sbf swap but my questions are... is this a track only car or does it get some street time, why did u go to a fuel cell and not use the tank thats with the car im sure their is a reason, are u running a/c or power steering, did u have any electrical or wiring issues that affected the anti theft system and will windows and radio and all that jazz still work... i was thinking of either the 357 or 427 using a fast multi port efi system on my build... sorry for all the question but i ask them because my car will see at least 80% street time

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ArtQ

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i hope u dnt have a prob with ppl askn questions... but i would like to start off by saying nice job and looks good.. i also have a s197 and was thinking of doing the sbf swap but my questions are... is this a track only car or does it get some street time, why did u go to a fuel cell and not use the tank thats with the car im sure their is a reason, are u running a/c or power steering, did u have any electrical or wiring issues that affected the anti theft system and will windows and radio and all that jazz still work... i was thinking of either the 357 or 427 using a fast multi port efi system on my build... sorry for all the question but i ask them because my car will see at least 80% street time

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If you live in a emission state then this wont work for you. My car is strictly a race only car at this point.
The wiring, you have to decide how much you want to keep and how much you don't need based on your final goals. I kept enough of the stock wiring to maintain the stock lights, the stereo, and the power windows. The stock fuel tank is really not needed once you go with a carb, however, if you plan on running aftermarket EFI, you can easily adapt the stock fuel tank with a return fuel system. I went with a manual steering rack for simplification, you can still run the power rack with some custom hoses and some fabrication of power steering pump brackets.
 
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ArtQ

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Finished shifter install with cover, parking brake lever delete and Shrader performance rear seat delete.









 

Rokkit

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but with the auto u get the upper hand with consistancy.. love the options they have for the s197
 

Rokkit

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so did u remove the factory computer and keep the stock fuse box and relays for windows and lights and ignition switch?
 

ArtQ

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so did u remove the factory computer and keep the stock fuse box and relays for windows and lights and ignition switch?

Yes

High speed custom fuse box support...LOL

 
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jsimmonstx

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I did the same swap in my 2012. Went from a V6/auto to a 427 (Dart block)/Tremec Magnum XL. I'm making 530hp at the crank, 450hp at the wheels.

You're gonna hate the manual rack. I did that too, and ended up swapping to a 2009 hydraulic rack with a fox body PS pump.

My car has a Cervini glass hood, fiberglass racing seats, rear seat delete, and a 4-point Max Motorsports roll cage, and it weights in at 3650 pounds. That's a lot of car to be throwing around with a manual rack.

My car turned a 13.2 at 118.5 on street tires, with no drag suspension tuning, and with absolutely no drag racing experience on the part of the driver (me).

Advice:

Replace the stock fuel pump with something beefier, like a walbro. I burned my OEM pump because it keeps running full bore all the time, and it ain't built for that. I converted my fuel system to a return style by plumbing the OEM fuel hat for a return line. Don't bother plumbing the passenger side hat. It won't work as well as plumbing the driver's side. If it's just a race car, consider putting an actual fuel cell in the trunk.

We only kept enough of the underhood ECU wiring to run the crank position sensor because we kept the stock tach. If you're running an aftermarket tach, you can run it right off the ignition module (assuming you're using MSD or something similar).

I updated my build thread with a new video if you're interested. http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112355
 
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Rokkit

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I did the same swap in my 2012. Went from a V6/auto to a 427 (Dart block)/Tremec Magnum XL. I'm making 530hp at the crank, 450hp at the wheels.

You're gonna hate the manual rack. I did that too, and ended up swapping to a 2009 hydraulic rack with a fox body PS pump.

My car has a Cervini glass hood, fiberglass racing seats, rear seat delete, and a 4-point Max Motorsports roll cage, and it weights in at 3650 pounds. That's a lot of car to be throwing around with a manual rack.

My car turned a 13.2 at 118.5 on street tires, with no drag suspension tuning, and with absolutely no drag racing experience on the part of the driver (me).

Advice:

Replace the stock fuel pump with something beefier, like a walbro. I burned my OEM pump because it keeps running full bore all the time, and it ain't built for that. I converted my fuel system to a return style by plumbing the OEM fuel hat for a return line. Don't bother plumbing the passenger side hat. It won't work as well as plumbing the driver's side. If it's just a race car, consider putting an actual fuel cell in the trunk.

We only kept enough of the underhood ECU wiring to run the crank position sensor because we kept the stock tach. If you're running an aftermarket tach, you can run it right off the ignition module (assuming you're using MSD or something similar).

I updated my build thread with a new video if you're interested. http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112355
thnx.. gotta have power steering on the street and my car has been upgraded to the deatschwerks 340 pump so i figured no need and getting the one with fast injection kit.. is the mag56 pretty smooth shifting..
 

jsimmonstx

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looks good i think if i decide to do this i will go with the tko600

TKO won't work - In a S197, you need to use a Tremec Magnum XL to get the shifter in the right place. Event then, you have to toss the bellhousing that comes with it and buy an aftermarket scattershield along with having a spacer fabricate so the input shaft doesn't bottom out in the crank. It would be cheaper to go automatic.
 

jsimmonstx

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thnx.. gotta have power steering on the street and my car has been upgraded to the deatschwerks 340 pump so i figured no need and getting the one with fast injection kit.. is the mag56 pretty smooth shifting..

Power steering is easy. Use a hydraulic rack from a 2005-2010 car and a fox body pump. The only thing you have to fabricate is a pressure line (more for the length than anything else), and that shouldn't cost more than $40. For a bracket, make sure you get the 351w version - the one from a 302 will NOT work.

FYI, you can use the alternator bracket/tensioner from a fox body, and an alternator for 95 mustang (not a one-wire unit). Make sure you get AT LEAST a 180-amp alternator. I'm running a serpentine belt, too.
 

83-88T-Bird Guy

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TKO won't work - In a S197, you need to use a Tremec Magnum XL to get the shifter in the right place. Event then, you have to toss the bellhousing that comes with it and buy an aftermarket scattershield along with having a spacer fabricate so the input shaft doesn't bottom out in the crank. It would be cheaper to go automatic.

Yeah, that shifter location in the s197 really sucks.
Limits your trans choices.

Power steering is easy. Use a hydraulic rack from a 2005-2010 car and a fox body pump. The only thing you have to fabricate is a pressure line (more for the length than anything else), and that shouldn't cost more than $40. For a bracket, make sure you get the 351w version - the one from a 302 will NOT work.

FYI, you can use the alternator bracket/tensioner from a fox body, and an alternator for 95 mustang (not a one-wire unit). Make sure you get AT LEAST a 180-amp alternator. I'm running a serpentine belt, too.

On my s197 I simply "looped" the p/s hose and removed the p/s pump while still using the factory rack.
Even with the factory 17 inch wheels and tires on the front I think it steers decent.
Once it gets above 5 mph it steers easier.
With the skinnies it gets even easier.
 
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jsimmonstx

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Yeah, that shifter location in the s197 really sucks.
Limits your trans choices.



On my s197 I simply "looped" the p/s hose and removed the p/s pump while still using the factory rack.
Even with the factory 17 inch wheels and tires on the front I think it steers decent.
Once it gets above 5 mph it steers easier.
With the skinnies it gets even easier.

I have a flaming river manual rack (with steering knuckle) I'll sell you cheap - make me a reasonable offer and pay shipping, and it could be yours. I only used it for about a month before I caved and put power steering back on the car.
 

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