Some really really good info in this post, thanks!
I have steeda 555-4422 adjustable lower control arms currently installed, and the car is lowered on eibach pro kit springs only.
I also have the steeda relocation brackets, not installed.. part 555-8119
So you're suggesting using the BMR relocation brackets instead of the steeda because these do not require welding, correct? Will these brackets fit the Steeda LCA I already have installed?
I also plan to get the Viking Crusader shocks this winter
Thanks!
From steeda url u just posted.
"This kit is a WELD-IN application for the S197 Mustang platform and is NOT recommended as a bolt in only application. Bolts are included FOR POSITIONING to AID in welding but are NOT be driven on."
Steeda makes good stuff, but their LCA re-locate brackets (IMO) isn't one of them. I looked at both the steeda + the BMR years ago. With the steeda, it's only bolted in one place..then u have to baby it over to the welding shop, realign the bolt on each bracket, make damn sure the brackets are exactly where they are need, then weld em in. Screw that process up, after welding, folks have had the axle not perpendicular to the axis of the car. Then u require adjustable lca's to fix that mess.
The BMR version has that extra chunk of steel going up the back side, so it's bolted on the top of the back side, and twice more on the sides. The BMR version allows for 3 hole positions ( 2-3-4" drop at axle end). I started off with the top hole, then swapped to middle hole a year later, better traction.
Note most of the fixed lca relocation brackets provide for a fixed 3" drop
(same as middle hole on the BMR). The whiteline LCA re-locate bracket as far as I can see, is identical in construction to the BMR unit, except that it only provides for a 3" drop. The FRPP version only bolts in 1 place, and only provides for a 3" drop.
Assuming the lca's are parallel to the ground at stock ride height.... lower the rear by 1"...and now lca's are no longer parallel to the ground. They are higher at axle end = bad news. You would have to lower the rear ends of each lca by 1" just to get the lca's parallel to the ground. With the top hole used in the bmr (2"drop).... then you end up with (2-1=1) lca drop at axle end.
Lousy analogy, but stand on a bathroom scale..and imagine both your arms are lca's. Then push against a wall.... scale doesn't change. Now push down on a counter top, and scale weight reduces. Push on the ( low ceiling) and scale weight increases.
When I 1st lowered the rear ( and also front) by 1"... the car was damned dangerous in the wet /rain. Blow on the gas pedal, on a corner, and u are taking weight off the rear axle... back end kicks out. I lost it 4 times just going to the dentist office a few miles away. Same deal going dead straight in the wet. In went all the BMR stuff, lca's, uca + mating mount, re-locate brackets etc, etc. Ok, now it stuck..using top hole. A year later, dropped to middle hole, as I was slipping sometimes at the top end of 2nd gear. No more wheel hop either. Watch out... opposite of wheel hop is brake hop. I don't have that issue with the middle hole... but could see that happening if the very bottom hole used..and trying to brake from high speeds. Even then. with a stiff front + rear suspension/springs /shocks /struts, I don't have any nose dive on braking.
The BMR unit sits below the axle..so although it's close to the ground, it always clears the ground. IE: go over a speed bump, and the axle plus re-locate brackets rise and fall at the same rate.
And yes, any brand lca will fit the BMR lca re-locate brackets.