2011 GT vert rebuild

Sky Render

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Hahaha, because I'm a cheapskate, I lived with one of those cheapo auto parts store jacks for quite a few years, then when I finally opened up my wallet to get a decent one like the one you got, I was pissed at myself for struggling with the cheapo for sooo long, hahaha!

Yes! A good jack makes life so much easier (and safer!) in the garage.
 

LikeabossTM

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Love the new jack, couldn't agree more.

Pieced the rear seating and trim back together, hopefully have no need to pull it apart again.

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Also prepped the pinch weld area to clean up and prime/paint spots where the windshield removal wire scratched down to bare metal. Will have to order the U6 touch-up and then grind/prime while I wait its arrival - nobody carries that paint code in stock and duplicolor doesn't even list it!

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I replaced the front exhaust heat shields with the 2014 donors too. The mech who removed the exhaust before I bought it had cut through them with the cutting wheel.

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I also x-referenced the engine bay harnesses - the only difference seems to be pin 33 on C175T is used for the od cancel/hill assist feature in 2011, while it goes unused (and un-pinned) in 2014. So I'll probably just use whichever harness is cleaner, it won't hurt to have it there even while I'm not using it.

I also noticed that the connector pin list is at odds with the wiring diagram for PC2 and PC3 (switched around) - probably a typo as they are mixed up in both the 2011 and 2014 manuals.

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Oh, and my trans mount and tty bolts arrived. Can move forward with reinstalling the EPAS and engine/trans now.

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LikeabossTM

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Trans is back into position, just have to slip the jack underneath and pump it back up. Will probably find a second set of hands for that.

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Go Pats
 

LikeabossTM

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Trans is up and loosely bolted in so that I could roll the car back the six extra inches I needed to roll the engine out of its storage corner. I managed on my own after all, it was quite steady and easy to maneuver on the jack with the adapter I built.

Engine's chained to the hoist and ready for install tomorrow morning.

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LikeabossTM

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Making good progress. Excited to see the engine go in. Good Luck!
Thanks, me too.

Popped it in and have the five lower bolts all snugged up, just need to 2x check for pinched wiring before I torque em down and install the upper two.

I had to lay a couple of 2x4s over the engine mounts and set the engine down briefly while I extended the hoist to its furthest reach. I was about 4" short of mating with the trans on the original setting due to the bumper holding me back.

Otherwise uneventful. Even remembered to lube the torque converter pin that mates into the end of the crank.

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LikeabossTM

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Pulled the AC compressor out of storage to reinstall and got a visual reminder that 'I need to take care of that damage sometime' - something had pinched the clutch and pulley during the crash...

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No problem, the bearing sounded good, but the opposite side of the pulley from the damage was skimming the clutch when it came around past the pinched clutch side - it wobbled by maybe a mm. I just hoped the pulley had inadvertently been pressed a little further down the shaft on the impact side.

Popped the clutch off and put my two-jaw to the pulley, canted a little over to the damaged side. Presto-change-o it popped back up tight to the snap ring and was now turning true.

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Now to deal with the pinched edge. First was judicious use of the vise-grips to pinch it back up as much as possible.

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Then a little filing to get rid of the ridge, with some tough sandpaper laid over the pulley grooves, rough side facing the file, to protect those grooves.

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Viola, good enough. It'll be off-balance by maybe a half-gram at most, not even worth filling the void with some JB Weld. Torqued the clutch back on, and the compressor to the engine, and everything spins nicely with nothing to catch the belt. Will run it like that as long as it lasts - I expect it'll be as long as if it had taken no damage.

Thanks to my gramps, who grew up during the depression, and was always ready try to breathe life back into something imperfect before running out and buying new. He always had some different technique to try, and didn't give up until whatever it was had truly gone beyond salvage.
 

LikeabossTM

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Not much happening tonight - attached the ground to the right-side engine mount as well as the wiring harness across the front of the oil pan, and bolted the steering shaft to the EPAS.

Note to self for next time - bolt the shaft before dropping the engine in. There wasn't enough room to get my 1/2" torque wrench in for 35 ft-lb, so I made do with my 3/8" torque wrench at 250 in-lb and added a quarter of a turn to that. Seemed about right...
 

LikeabossTM

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Your field repair of that AC compressor is impressive!
Thanks, we'll see how long it lasts. I'm prepared to replace if required, but I'm willing to gamble an extra evacuation/refill to see if it'll be okay, it seemed g2g.

Installed the starter and wired up that as well as the generator. Torquing down trans mount and assorted nuts and bolts this morning, it's nice to have a wide open area to swing my 20 year old 1/2" beam torque wrench. Still matches up calibration-wise to what my 3/8" clicker reads at the lower ft-lb ranges, so I'm still using it!

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LikeabossTM

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One thing I need to add, just in case there are any better ideas. Because the driveshaft is from the 2011 and the trans is from the 2014, I don't have a scribe-mark between the two to ensure it goes back together balanced. I plan to just re-use the old bolts and if there's no odd NVH then I'll replace those bolts with the new ones.

If it seems like there's some abnormal NVH then I'll remove the bolts, rotate by a quarter turn, and try again.

Rinse and repeat.

Unless there are better suggestions...
 

LikeabossTM

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Driveshaft to trans flange and centre bearing bolts got torqued this morning. I had to rob the centre bearing bolts and spacers from the 2014 as the mech had just one random bolt with no spacers holding the shaft up off of the ground.

Easiest was to finger tight them all and then torque the 6 o'clock bolt with it in park. Then put in neutral and spin it to put the remaining three bolts at 3, 6, and 9 o'clock position, then back into park.

This allowed me to reach and torque the remaining three all at once (cross-pattern of course).
 

LikeabossTM

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I had to press out a broken stud on the right upper side of the cat flange. No biggie, some PB blaster and a few whacks with the hammer while balancing it against the vice and it came right out.

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I have a couple of bolts on hand that'll fit for replacement. One is a grade 5 which I believe is adequate, the other I can't find a reference for the marking. It appears to be marked H315. Comments on the suitability of either and/or what that H315 on the one on the left denotes?

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LikeabossTM

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I decided to go with a purpose-built M10 grade 8 bolt with a wider shoulder, and matching shoulder nut to replace the broken stud.

Also ran a die down the other three studs to clean up the threads, and picked up new shoulder nuts from the dealership for those as well. 40 cents apiece, why not.

Now everything spins together like new. Should make it a little easier for the one-man show re-installation.
 

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Working on the cooling system today, fitting the rad and trans/AC heat exchangers.

Fortunately the mech threw the 2011 AC HE in the trunk with the other spare parts, and the crushed 2014 rad and AC HE saved the trans HE from most damage.

It had a bow across its length - I was able to push it back into shape with a few moments in the vice and the judicious application of some hand pushing/pulling.

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LikeabossTM

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I need an assist if you please. I was repairing some pinched wiring on the harness that goes from the PCM to the engine, and I have a ground that lost its end. I need to know what the terminal should look like and where it should ground.

If you start at the PCM plug (middle one, denoted as 1) and follow it back toward the engine past the next connector (denoted as 2), it's the next branch wire from there. I'm holding the wire in question (denoted as 3).

Any info or a pic would be much appreciated.

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travelers

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This might help, do you see the rest of the terminal end? That wire had a range of movement, so if you move it around you might find the other end.

Ok I just looked at my car and that ground wire goes to the right (pass side) top of the front engine alum. cover
 

LikeabossTM

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This might help, do you see the rest of the terminal end? That wire had a range of movement, so if you move it around you might find the other end.

Ok I just looked at my car and that ground wire goes to the right (pass side) top of the front engine alum. cover

Yes, but that's the other end of it at the engine block! Lol I need to know where the end I'm holding bolts down (and crimp a ring on it or whatever). I presume to the fender or maybe the pcm bracket, but I'd like to be sure and get it right.

Thanks travelers, I really appreciate you taking a look.
 

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