All the advice here is great. I had huge issues with this on my Vortech install on my '12. How do you know it is false knock? Here is how to tell: Real knock will start off high and gradually feed timing back in as time passes. Throw in some high octane fuel and real octane boost like Torco or Lucas and see if the situation improves. If it does, it's real knock retard.
If it is false KR, look at EVERY connector on the hot and cold side. if they are even touching each other, inside the coupler, they can set this off. They can also set it off if they are touching ANYTHING, even plastic parts. Particular tight spots are the cold-side piping around the right side of the rad and sprayer bottle. Check every drive pulley, for quiet operation, as well as checking the exhaust from header to tailpipe, for any contact with anything.
This is super aggravating, I know. It took forever to get my Vortech-powered '12 into something resembling decent running and then I wrecked it. With my replacement '14, I just put a nitrous kit on it and called it a day. I've been totally happy with that.
Tell ya what...run a log and I'll even look at it for you. Here is what to include, as far as PIDs go:
Lambse 1&2
load
LTFT 1&2
STFT1&2
Maf freq &flow rate in lb/min
measured afr 1&2
rpm
spark adv
spark adv v2
throttle actual & demanded
torque source
knock sensor
ECT
IAT
vehicle speed
Give me a WOT run in one gear first, like 3rd, 2000-6500 rpm then a second one that has a shift in it. Be safe, this is a shit-load of power for street tires, if it works.