Heater coolant pipe mod

rocky61201

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I'm getting tired of my heater coolant pipe leaking/dripping into the valley of my 3v. I've replaced the tiny rubber O-rings twice and it just won't seal.

I know I've read in some supercharger install manuals that require you to cut/remove that pipe and replace it with a hose/worm clamps. I want to perform this mod and be done with it.

Has anybody out there done this and if so, do you remember the diameter of the heater hose/worm clamps you used and any other parts needed? I prefer to only have to run to the parts store 1 time before I start removing everything to get at that damn pipe. FYI - its the pipe in the valley of the engine block that feeds into the back of the block directly behind the water pump.
 

slackinoff

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I'm getting tired of my heater coolant pipe leaking/dripping into the valley of my 3v. I've replaced the tiny rubber O-rings twice and it just won't seal.

I know I've read in some supercharger install manuals that require you to cut/remove that pipe and replace it with a hose/worm clamps. I want to perform this mod and be done with it.

Has anybody out there done this and if so, do you remember the diameter of the heater hose/worm clamps you used and any other parts needed? I prefer to only have to run to the parts store 1 time before I start removing everything to get at that damn pipe. FYI - its the pipe in the valley of the engine block that feeds into the back of the block directly behind the water pump.
Yes I just did this, I don't have a supercharger. But I did have an annoying leak. Ended up being for both pipes in the valley. I tried 3 times to make the oem setup work but ended up cutting. Decide where you want to make your cuts and take those extra pieces with you to figure what hose you need. ( sorry I forget the sizes). It should be as simple as handing the cut piece and telling the parts guy to give 3ft of heater hose that fits good over this pipe, and the clamps. That's all you need.

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rocky61201

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Thanks. I'll give it a shot this weekend if I have time. Maybe I'll get lucky and I can eyeball it and guess right the first time. I don't have one of those cool micrometer caliper things but I imagine even if I did I couldn't find a spot to take a quick measurement with the intake manifold in the way.
 

mrt2you

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i just used a good amount of pipe sealant on the joint behind the water pump.
no leaks.
 

Wes06

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Hey Rocky. Got Amazon and order yourself a nice digital caliper for 16 bucks. I got one that reads decimal, fraction. And mm
 

rocky61201

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i just used a good amount of pipe sealant on the joint behind the water pump.
no leaks.

I already tried that. Used a good amount of permatex rtv red high temp gasket maker. Coated the female and male end of the joint where the two orings are. It helped, but still dribbles fluid.

The smell of coolant always give me pause, and I swear it messes with my knock sensors that reside in the engine valley as well. Plus I'm the paranoid type and I could swear on acceleration or going uphill, it leaks out the hole in the back of the engine valley, the runs down into that little window in the bellhousing and drips on my clutch, lol.
 

AK_Stang

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The back bracket bolt for heater pipe broke off on the back of the head on a car I recently bought. I just cut the pipe where it transitions to the larger diameter and used a short piece of 1/2" heater hose and two hose clamps. Pressure tested to 16 psi and it's working fine. Five minute fix saved me the time of pulling the heads and should be a better seal in the long run.
 

dark steed

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I just got Steve at Tasca to send me a new assembly for about $65. Put a new Mishimoto radiator in while I was at it
 

rocky61201

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Finally got around to getting this one done. Used 5/8 and 3/4 sections of heater hose. This is the way ford shoulda done it.

I have to change my sig now. This one should never leak again and my rear main seal is still leak free after a couple months. 10 years, 230k miles, and no more spots on the drive way.

IMG_0751.JPG
 

dakotanut

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What parts are needed for this? Mine is leaking pretty bad and it's coming from the same place. I'm going to try and tackle it this Sunday. Any more info would be great. Thanks.
 

rocky61201

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What parts are needed for this? Mine is leaking pretty bad and it's coming from the same place. I'm going to try and tackle it this Sunday. Any more info would be great. Thanks.

A couple feet of 5/8 and 3/4 inch sections of heater hose and 4 worm clamps. You will need to remove the intake manifold and fuel rails so buy some extra fuel injector o-rings in case any of them leak after reinstalling the fuel rails. Might want to get some intake manifold gaskets as well in case any of them rip when you pop off the intake manifold.

Before removing the existing stock heater coolant tube assembly put a bunch of paper towels in the lifter valley. When you pop it off you're going to lose a bunch of coolant.
 

NickD87

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Page 13 of the department of boost instructions cover this, I disconnected the fittings on the firewall cut off the hose and was able to re use them and had a single length of hose rather then the splice as suggested


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rocky61201

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Page 13 of the department of boost instructions cover this, I disconnected the fittings on the firewall cut off the hose and was able to re use them and had a single length of hose rather then the splice as suggested


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That works too. I contemplated going that route but thought the hoses might interfere with the charge motion plate control arms on the back of the intake manifold. I just couldn't figure out a good way of securing them out of the way that would hold up over time. Don't need to worry about that with a DOB setup.
 

AK_Stang

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The back bracket bolt for heater pipe broke off on the back of the head on a car I recently bought. I just cut the pipe where it transitions to the larger diameter and used a short piece of 1/2" heater hose and two hose clamps. Pressure tested to 16 psi and it's working fine. Five minute fix saved me the time of pulling the heads and should be a better seal in the long run.
I did the exact same thing with no problems.

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bujeezus

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Page 13 of the department of boost instructions cover this, I disconnected the fittings on the firewall cut off the hose and was able to re use them and had a single length of hose rather then the splice as suggested


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Thanks for that reference. Why in the hell didn't Ford just do it like this in the first place?
 

dakotanut

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That looks good at Department of Boost but wont they get in the way of the charge motion plates linkage?
 

dakotanut

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What if I dont delete them? I dont have the delete plates. Not going to for awhile either.
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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You'll just need to find a way to route the pipes so that the CMCV actuator linkages don't foul on them.
 

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