exhaust diameter questions, also ebay long tube headers any good? please advise

Found my wallett.

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ghunt81 said:

Ceramic coat doesn't stop rust...probably helps prevent it in dry climes, but as I was told it's still a pretty porous coating. My JBA's are 409 stainless which will still form rust, and I was getting rust spots all over the place on them after a year of driving. Hell, sitting in my garage over the winter caused them to develop more rust than driving the car did.

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I have titanium ceramic coated JBA LT's and mating JBA catted H. They have been installed for several years now, and zero rust anywhere. Car is left out in the rain, as all I have is a double wide driveway. The titanium ceramic is supposed to be rated for 100 deg F more than the JBA silver ceramic LT's. The titanium ceramic coated LT's cost a bit more. They are battleship grey.

Both use 409 SS. Also installed at the same time was Steeda eng mounts..which allowed for a... stock eng height, or 1/4 - 1/2 - 3/4" eng drop. I used the 1/4" eng drop option, to get some clearance between the Roush CAI tube and the steeda STB. Zero issues with cyl #8 clearing the steering shaft. However, you can't go too low, or you will have an issue with the steering shaft.

The JBA LT's is the one mod... that actually did something. Blatantly obvious increase in TQ + HP....from idle to wot. At the time, I ordered 2 of everything. Mine is on a 2010 auto + M90 + FRPP twin 62mm TB. Buddy's identical JBA's are on his 2008 NA GT. Both use 1 5/8" primaries...and 2.5" collector.

Apparently the oem H section has a solid disc, dead center in the H..with a small, aprx 1.25" hole dead center in the disc. (08/09 bullitt's got a 3/8" hole..for the...'bullitt sound). The JBA H section gets no disc..and a full sized 2.5" hole. 23" inches of rain per year on the southern tip of Vancouver island, BC. Humidity is high outside, all year round, even in summer, it hits 94% during the night..dropping to 80% during the day..and that's on a hot day.

Oem h-pipe has no disc in the h section. Only the bullitt h-pipe does.

Let us know how the install goes.

slackinoff said:

Found my wallett.

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Joe88xj said:

Let us know how the install goes.

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I sure will. Anyone have an idea on what xpipe and down pipes should fit? I currently have pypes down and x pipe on my stock manifold car. I will be doing the header swap but we have a good exhaust shop in town.....maybe they could adapt my current downpipes and x pipe?

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Down pipes with headers?


Norm

I think he's referring to the catless legs.

I have Pypes O/R H-pipes for stock manifolds and the Pypes shorty H-pipes to go with these headers.

Comparing them side by side, the legs are obviously shorter but the bends are different where the ball&socket joints are. Also the H-pipes length is a lot shorter as well.

I'm pretty sure a good exhaust shop can chop and modify your current setup. I don't know any near me so I just bought mine.

o2sys said:

I think he's referring to the catless legs.

I have Pypes O/R H-pipes for stock manifolds and the Pypes shorty H-pipes to go with these headers.

Comparing them side by side, the legs are obviously shorter but the bends are different where the ball&socket joints are. Also the H-pipes length is a lot shorter as well.

I'm pretty sure a good exhaust shop can chop and modify your current setup. I don't know any near me so I just bought mine.

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Thanks! Yes I was referring to the catless legs. I think I will go ahead and get the x pipe - header version as it will have the ball socket style connection..... You wouldn't happen to have any handy install threads saved would you?

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Norm Peterson said:

Down pipes with headers?


Norm

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Man that was a duh moment for me.

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So... if I order a pair of these 1 3/4" primary headers, where can I get the stainless ball and socket stuff to make my midpipe?

I'm picking up my pacesetters today. I'm curious to see if they look half as good as these.

Mustang dog said:

I'm picking up my pacesetters today. I'm curious to see if they look half as good as these.

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I have a set of the ceramic pacesetters and they are very nice the catted h pipe on the other hand not so much looks like they were made by two different companies. My mechanic was very impressed with the headers outside of some fitment issues being 1 3/4 but after a little adjusting no rubbing.

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eighty6gt said:

So... if I order a pair of these 1 3/4" primary headers, where can I get the stainless ball and socket stuff to make my midpipe?

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These are 1-5/8" primaries and you can get Pypes shorty midpipes to go along with it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Mustan...xhaust-Manifold-Headers-/263103695487?vxp=mtr

Says 1 3/4!~

Those are another design, like a full length header.

I want 1 3/4" primaries in either design...

I'll find those ball and socket joints somewhere. I can cut my own flanges on the laser!

eighty6gt said:

I want 1 3/4" primaries in either design...

I'll find those ball and socket joints somewhere. I can cut my own flanges on the laser!

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Let me know when you find some ball and socket stuff.....I might be able to reuse my x pipe.

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o2sys said:

Those are another design, like a full length header.

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I read somewhere the "pypes" made the most hp over th average and peak. So I went with that copy from that particular eBay vendor. (speed_daddy)

I can't tell what's a worse name, speed daddy or pypes. This is what you get for being into cars. I hope the little kids that weld these headers together get an extra portion of gruel today.

$100 per side for magnaflow ball and socket joints that look like they might work, that's a no go. $25-$30 to hack that off and convert to a v-band, might be a better idea.