Car hard to start or won't start when HOT...

BruceH

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I'm with the vapor lock crowd. It was more common when I was growing up because everything was carbureted. With the pump in the tank I'd think it would be pretty hard to vapor lock.

Something else I remember from way back when was that a car wouldn't start when hot if it had too much spark. That was an easy fix, just rotate the distributer a little.

Good luck with it. I take it the injectors are fic which have always done me well. At least the modified ones have anyway.

Where is your frps mounted? Is there a chance that it's getting baked by the kb and skewing the readings?
 

psfracer

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I'm with the vapor lock crowd. It was more common when I was growing up because everything was carbureted. With the pump in the tank I'd think it would be pretty hard to vapor lock.

Something else I remember from way back when was that a car wouldn't start when hot if it had too much spark. That was an easy fix, just rotate the distributer a little.

Good luck with it. I take it the injectors are fic which have always done me well. At least the modified ones have anyway.

Where is your frps mounted? Is there a chance that it's getting baked by the kb and skewing the readings?


Thats what I thought also until post 35. No way you are going to vapor lock that quickly, and I really don't see how random misfire codes could be fuel, it sounds electrical to me.
 

Boozshey

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Well I looked over the suspect area that I had in my mind last night. Everything looked good. So back on the lift so I can see what's happening with the harness from the bottom side.

I'm about to just pull this motor and sell everything off and do like Paul with a BBF!!!
 

Boozshey

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Well Paul was partially right. I started to dig around a little bit and noticed the wire loom that ran above the starter along the block by the headers was melting. However, none of the wires were melted through.

I did notice again on my Aeroforce gauge that Bank 2 wasn't working. So I hooked up my SCT to check. And sure enough, it's out again. Not getting a signal from it at all.

So after seeing these two things, I decided to do a continuity check all the way from beginning of the harness to the end of the harness. Everything checked okay.

So I'm wondering if it's possible my PCM somehow went bad??? Not sure where to go from here with it.

In a nutshell, here's what I'm getting, Random Misfires, misfires on most cylinders, and a o2 bank that isn't working... What do they all have in common other than the PCM.
 

Boozshey

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No sign at all. The wires had no burn marks or anything. Just the melted loom. The wires look all in tact. I cleared more away than what was melted in order to inspect.

EB38F2AF-0058-4523-8E40-9487CC2D92C1_zpst8ebvy8l.jpg


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image1_zpsf0bdd70f.jpeg
 

stkjock

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Yikes! Two dead holes and two hurt holes?
 

Boozshey

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I would have to look at the ford manual to know for sure, but I would have though 130+
 

VectorPat

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Opening the throttle will affect it also, still wont help the dead ones tho. That sucks man, sad to see that. Hope that block isnt hurt
 

psfracer

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wow with two dead holes it would have ran like crap once you did get it started. Was the car struggling to idle and non responsive when you did actually have it running? The spark plug gaps on three of them look all f'd up, like instead of .032 its like .080 or more--like the ground strap was in process of melting.
 
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Boozshey

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The engine didn't struggle at idle, but it was definitely shaking the entire f'n car. And it didn't sound healthy. I borrowed a local shops Aultel device this past weekend. That's when I really knew something was wrong. It showed live misfires on 2,3,6,7, and sometimes 5.

Anything with a (-) negative number is not good with a -1 indicating a misfire.

78E8CECD-C4C6-4DBC-9848-1EC61D2A14D5_zpszrxo5gyl.jpg


 

Boozshey

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Motor is out, crank pulley won't come off. Broke two cheap jaw pullers yesterday. Going to buy a 5 ton one today and see what happens.
 

G.T

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if it's an OE GT500 crank pulley, you'd have a better chance taking it off with this style puller:
full20_28374Accessories_Gear_and_Pulley_Pullers_7393.jpg
 

Boozshey

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G.T, those won't work on the newer lighter style GT500 pulley. They are lacking the holes required. You have to use a 3 jaw style. But using the Chrysler 3-jaw puller is came off.

Found the problem. Bad head gasket.

image1_zpse23e21ba.jpeg


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stkjock

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the short block looks ok?
 

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