86's VMP 1.9/Forged Build

palanza7

forum member
Joined
Apr 6, 2015
Posts
648
Reaction score
16
Found out why that built engine only made 550 rw

PCtZJCK.jpg

lol i just came across this. my bad for the piss poor wiring but i doubt that's the sole reason you were having issues ;p (tell me u wernt just running out of fuel lol)
 

palanza7

forum member
Joined
Apr 6, 2015
Posts
648
Reaction score
16
^^I think he's referring to your thread about your engine being down on power.

ohhh ahah i wasn't using a BAP for that. I dont think I'll ever know what that issue was. Valve float or maybe the dyno was messed up
 

eighty6gt

forum member
Joined
May 9, 2011
Posts
4,292
Reaction score
403
I'm loving this spray-on phosphoric acid rust killer stuff. Wire wheel, then that, leaves it black, which I'll touch up with spray paint after assembly.
dcVrK5R.jpg



I'm at a loss on how to clean these up. Brush and hot water. Just submerge the PCV valve, who cares! I wish I could run a crankcase vac system.
7y0dPla.jpg



BBQ paint.
6DjiXBz.jpg



Painted these, they say wait a WEEK between coats if it's more than 1 hour, so I am waiting 5 days then peeling off the tape and baking for an hour at 200, which will do nothing.
ZzOeDGg.jpg



Experimenting with some paint on these shitty spigots as they always corrode/rust to shit. Industrial high solid stuff I had around. I'm also going to smear some RTV on there so the hoses don't freeze in place. Saw it on roadkill garage, has to be a good idea. I'm tired of having to hack off every damn 3/4" line and replace it every time. Instead, I can plug my cooling system with RTV.
DpScjGd.jpg




I am finished the diff except for pounding the carrier in with the preload shims, going to buy a dead blow tonight and finish that up. After I bake the calipers the car will go onto the wheels, then clean engine bay, I'm on vacation for two weeks starting Friday, will put the bulk of the engine together - just annoying shit like driving the seals in will wait as I'm getting custom drivers laser cut at work from 3/16" al. sheet.
 

eighty6gt

forum member
Joined
May 9, 2011
Posts
4,292
Reaction score
403
UHq5jW6.jpg


Car is back on the wheels, many pictures missing as my phone is dead and gone forever. Engine work proceeds. Getting close.
 

eighty6gt

forum member
Joined
May 9, 2011
Posts
4,292
Reaction score
403
Must have not hit submit last night, which is good because I couldn't do math and wasn't thinking about clearances vs. diameters. My brain is really hurting these days! I was checking pistons and piston to bore, pistons coming up at 3.550 across the board, maybe .001 difference either way.

Set up my bore gauge to 3.550, drop it in, seeing .028 to .030 less across the board, so my clearance is .015. Not bad! Rings are .016 top and .018 2nd - non file fit, mahle moly. That will work.

Getting my spare rod bolts tonight so I can check bearing clearances, just a lot of cleaning, cleaning, should see the shortblock together before the weekend at a minimum, possibly the entire thing.

I need a good used fuel pump hat from somewhere, but that's another story. Foolishly didn't take pictures of my custom walbro solution. It's pretty great, it's just that I had kind of wrecked the wiring on mine because I'm terrible at soldering and I flowed a bunch of shitty solder up the ground lead when I first installed the pump. In the future, I am not going to be soldering on this (or any) car, unless it's a tiny wire that I can't use an 18-22 barrel splice on.

What I am doing now: Gardner bender has heat shrinkable butt splice terminals called GB-Xtreme that are resistant to gasoline, waterproof... they flow sealant out on to the wire jacket. I have a ratcheting crimper. Man, it is a nice operation, if you aren't using these...
 
Last edited:

eighty6gt

forum member
Joined
May 9, 2011
Posts
4,292
Reaction score
403
Cams are a little haggard, do people ever butcher stuff when they install it. The slot for the driver pin on the phaser at the front had some rough edges, as did the thrust surface. I don't even know how you'd manage to damage the area in question, so I figure it was some poor blind person at comp doing some deburring around the slots for the cam position sensor. Also comp skips a few machining steps the factory sees fit to do.

Good deal of resistance turning the cam, my factory cams had lateral chatter marks on the journals. I'm going to compare this one to the factory one when bolted down, I also believe I can drop in every cam follower except for 3 on each head prior to installation.

QkuPRVF.jpg


uSXp50O.jpg
 

eighty6gt

forum member
Joined
May 9, 2011
Posts
4,292
Reaction score
403
Burning up HSS, "cobalt," drill bits. It is possible for me to drill these out, with another $30 in bits, and a lot of effort, my body is busted to hell from a cycling crash, doesn't feel very good.

I wonder how long those mac chrome headers would last.
 

Attachments

  • 21397527_10154821040946367_1529927018_n.jpg
    21397527_10154821040946367_1529927018_n.jpg
    67.3 KB · Views: 10

eighty6gt

forum member
Joined
May 9, 2011
Posts
4,292
Reaction score
403
Tig'd up my H pipe today, should be able to build that pro chamber and the rest of the exhaust with the skills I'm developing. Some pretty cold welds, I'm going to do some grinding and take another run at it next week when I have some more time, make sure there are no pinholes.

Going to be interesting to see how long this transformer lasts.

Wqj40fQ.jpg
 
Last edited:

eighty6gt

forum member
Joined
May 9, 2011
Posts
4,292
Reaction score
403
Thanks to your pioneering - ordering the wiring harness very soon so I can get that laid in. I hope I can get can signal from the SJB area - I'll be mucking around in there as I'm moving my WB from the driver's to the passenger's side so I have enough length in the harness to reach the collector on the long tube header.

The hole in that rear mount is pretty huge, but the forces probably are not. It's just the inertia of the big box/motor.

Do you know if you used the plastic rack limiters on the inner tie rod ends? My rack came with them, I guess I can try it with them out, see if anything rubs.
 
Last edited:

lito

forum member
Joined
Nov 8, 2008
Posts
3,900
Reaction score
28
Location
Caracas, Venezuela
We used the FRPP unit and it comes complete so we didn't checked what it had in there, I think the limiters depend on tire/wheel combo that track came up for.

Sent from my ASUS_Z01GD using Tapatalk
 

DiMora

More Is Better
Joined
Aug 22, 2010
Posts
970
Reaction score
38
Location
Fayetteville, GA
Found out why that built engine only made 550 rw

PCtZJCK.jpg

lol i just came across this. my bad for the piss poor wiring but i doubt that's the sole reason you were having issues ;p (tell me u wernt just running out of fuel lol)

That’s why you never use crimp connectors. Always solder & heat-shrink. I’ve seen that countless times on other people’s cars.


This is priceless. Eighty6GT you were the one who was riding me like a hobby horse in the WOTBOX thread about soldering and now the chicken came home to roost! Crimp connector bit you right in the arse!
 
Last edited:

eighty6gt

forum member
Joined
May 9, 2011
Posts
4,292
Reaction score
403
...that is not my work. Good grief. I fixed everything, the car has not run yet.

Wqj40fQ.jpg
 

eighty6gt

forum member
Joined
May 9, 2011
Posts
4,292
Reaction score
403
Going over to all a/n for the rest of the pcv, this is the bubbler I'm customizing.

Separator reservoir has one side for a circuit from this bubbler, back up to the elbow before the blower and after the throttle body. The other half is just a drain can for the provent. Shouldn't need to drain this very often.

https://a360.co/2Enl4bV

SepRes.png
 

Support us!

Support Us - Become A Supporting Member Today!

Click Here For Details

Sponsor Links

Banner image
Back
Top