Looking for more low end power on a 2014 GT

302pony said:

I have a 2014 GT automatic and have an airaid cold air intake, Kooks side exhaust, Ford Racing quad tip axelbacks by Borla, 3:73 rear end gears and a Bama tune. I dynoed the car and was extremely disappointed, she dynoed a best 361 Rear wheel horsepower. The car is mostly for show and I never took it to the track yet. I really don't plan on racing it much but would like to see what she could do in the qtr. mile. I don't want to put a supercharger, or open the motor, no nitrous or even a Boss 302 intake. I want to get 400 rear wheel horse power or more. I was thinking long tube headers with high Flo cats but heard I might lose low end torque by putting long tube headers. What do you all recommend in an add on to get me 40 more rear wheel hp without losing low end torque. No Boss 302 intake, nitrous, supercharger or camshaft.

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skwerl said:

The old ones got replaced with new ones who spend most of their time at busier forums. This place is long past it's heyday.

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slackinoff said:

Who's the biggest/most popular currently? curious, I thought this was the biggest mustang forum on the net?

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Five Oh Brian said:

Ditch the CAI and put the stock airbox back in. Get a big stall converter (Circle-D 4C, 5C, or bigger). Most importantly, get a proper tune. My '14 GT automatic is putting down more than 400 rwhp with the very short list of mods in my signature. It has trapped just a few tenths shy of 120 mph in 1/4 mile a few times and 118-119 often. That's with a race weight of nearly 3700+ lbs!!!

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Five Oh Brian said:

Ditch the CAI and put the stock airbox back in. Get a big stall converter (Circle-D 4C, 5C, or bigger). Most importantly, get a proper tune. My '14 GT automatic is putting down more than 400 rwhp with the very short list of mods in my signature. It has trapped just a few tenths shy of 120 mph in 1/4 mile a few times and 118-119 often. That's with a race weight of nearly 3700+ lbs!!!

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46addict said:

It seems the S197 crowd moved on to other cars, but cars find new owners and a percentage of them end up as new users on the forums. Even with the lighter traffic, IMO this is still the best forum. Notwithstanding Photobucket holding people's pictures hostage and subsequently ruining some tech threads, there is a ton of knowledgeable people here and posts from the past that helped me make better decisions.

For quantity over quality, the FB S197 group has a ton of traffic.

For Mustangs in general (not limited to S197s), I like AFM, and Mustang Evolution seems to come up a lot in Google searches. But this place is still my favorite.


So you're making 400+ with just a tune and an O/R H? I'm impressed.

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slackinoff said:

Thanks for the feedback. I also really like this place. I have been a member on many forums of various topics....this form is different....in a good way.

Sent from my LG-H910 using Tapatalk

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Sky Render said:

4.10 is a lot of gear for the A6.

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Five Oh Brian said:

Perhaps for some people, but I really like the 4.10's in this car, especially on the street for "normal" driving. Also, many people think a 5,000 rpm stall converter is too much, but I love ripping right into the meat of the powerband at wide open throttle.

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Five Oh Brian said:

Perhaps for some people, but I really like the 4.10's in this car, especially on the street for "normal" driving. Also, many people think a 5,000 rpm stall converter is too much, but I love ripping right into the meat of the powerband at wide open throttle.

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WJBertrand said:

The Ford Racing Products Pro-Cal tune claims to add 60 ft/lb of torque at 1500 RPM (only 9 ft/lb net add) but you can really feel the additional grunt down low (need to add this to my sig line it appears). Thing is, this tune is intended for a otherwise stock engine so it may not work that well with your mods. It only adds net 16 horsepower but I wonder if the torque curve of the FRPP tune on a stock engine would actually be meatier than your set up?

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302pony said:

I have a 2014 GT automatic and have an airaid cold air intake, Kooks side exhaust, Ford Racing quad tip axelbacks by Borla, 3:73 rear end gears and a Bama tune. I dynoed the car and was extremely disappointed, she dynoed a best 361 Rear wheel horsepower. The car is mostly for show and I never took it to the track yet. I really don't plan on racing it much but would like to see what she could do in the qtr. mile. I don't want to put a supercharger, or open the motor, no nitrous or even a Boss 302 intake. I want to get 400 rear wheel horse power or more. I was thinking long tube headers with high Flo cats but heard I might lose low end torque by putting long tube headers. What do you all recommend in an add on to get me 40 more rear wheel hp without losing low end torque. No Boss 302 intake, nitrous, supercharger or camshaft.

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Pentalab said:

361 rwhp / .8 = 451.25 crank hp. I'd say that's damned good for the minimal mods you have.

If you had LT's + high flow cats added to the mix, it would be 400 rwhp and 500 crank hp. Plus bucket loads of more tq from IDLE...right up to almost wot. I used JBA LT's, titanium ceramic coated Stainless steel... + mating high flow catted H on my 2010, 3V.

Here's what I would use on a 2014 GT. http://www.jbaheaders.com/detail_long_tubeV.asp?id=6685SJT These are 1 7/8" primaries + 3" collector.

And the mating catted H. http://www.jbaheaders.com/detail_mid_pipesV.asp?id=6686SHC These use a 3" system..to mate with the above 3" collector's from the LT's.

Besides a huge increase in TQ, they will also reduce your underhood temps by a bunch. That's from a combo of the JBA high flow cats being relocated to beneath the car, instead of at base of eng bay...and the use of the titanium ceramic coated LT's, primaries, and integral collector. They come ceramic coated inside and out. I can put my fingers pushed down hard on any of the 8 primaries, after having the blower on, 1 block from the house. The ceramic holds the heat inside the tubes, instead of cooking the eng bay. The theory is... the hotter the exhaust gases are inside the ceramic coated tubing, the faster they will flow. The theory is sound.

Both the oem cats and JBA high flow cats run hot at WOT, like 1800-1900 deg F @ WOT, if the aeroforce digital gauges are to believed. That much heat at the base of the eng bay with oem cats just cooks the eng bay.
The JBA catted H section places the high flow cats just aft of the new mating LT's. The high flow cats are bigger diam than oem, but shorter in length. With its bigger internal cross sectional area, they flow faster, with less restriction, more parallel paths.

The finish on the Titanium ceramic coated headers is battleship grey. They are also rated at aprx 100-200 deg F higher than the slightly cheaper priced silver ceramic coated LT's. They come with all hardware, including new gaskets. Don't ever re-use old gaskets.

But you require a proper tune ( 91 /93 or both) with this install. At that point, you are in for a rude awakening. Regardless of LT brand, install new eng mounts at the same time. The steeda eng mounts allow for a stock eng height, or 1/4 - 1/2 - 3/4" eng height reduction. I used the 1/4" reduction..which allowed for more clearance between my Roush CAI tube + Steeda STB above it. Get too low, and the #8 primary can hit the steering shaft.

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