ARP everything?

Heaten m90

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Just ordered manly rods, standard bore Dimond pistons(-6cc dish), plasma moly rings, 4130 .150 CM pins, ARP 2000 rod bolts and clevite h series bearings.
Looking to make around 650WHP on a stock cast 6 bolt.
Question- are ARP head and main bolts really necessary? I mean, arent alot of stock aluminum block terminators running around the same power with TTY hardware. And wouldnt it be better to lift a head if something goes wrong anyways.
On all the other mustang fourms i see, there is alot of unknowledgable answers given from guys that get there information from the shops who are selling the parts and labor to them. So im hoping i can still get advise from you guys here.
Also i plan on doing the head work, hone, decking and assemble myself at the shop i work at and plan on using OEM head gaskets and im going with the OEM balencer and ford racing oil pump gears unless informed otherwise
Thanks-
 

eighty6gt

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I wouldn't change any of the fasteners or the oil pump.

Hey, aren't you that guy that claimed to run nitromethane mixed in with his gasoline?
 

RED09GT

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I am using TTY hardware for my build, similar power goals-maybe a bit more.

With an all aluminum motor, I like the idea of having a bit of elasticity as my block was not torque plate honed. 2013 GT500's make 662hp with a warranty and I am yet to see any failures caused by the head bolts or main bolts on a mod motor.

Look for some of BruceH's posts on the subject. His research made me a believer in the TTY hardware.
 

Heaten m90

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Well thats great news!! why not change the oil pump gears though? Arent the stock gears prone to issues?
 

Wes06

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dunno why he said no to gears.
yes change the oil pump gears
 

Heaten m90

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Im just happy i dont have to spend anothet 700$ on hardware. Earlier this year i spend about 10 grand on my car and just this week i've dropped 9K on parts. Plus i had to drop another 2500 yesterday on a vacation to Colorado to keep my ol'lady happy while i bankrupt us lol. On a positive note its super exciting coming home and opening boxs of car parts.
 
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JeremyH

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Just ordered manly rods, standard bore Dimond pistons(-6cc dish), plasma moly rings, 4130 .150 CM pins, ARP 2000 rod bolts and clevite h series bearings.
Looking to make around 650WHP on a stock cast 6 bolt.
Question- are ARP head and main bolts really necessary? I mean, arent alot of stock aluminum block terminators running around the same power with TTY hardware. And wouldnt it be better to lift a head if something goes wrong anyways.
On all the other mustang fourms i see, there is alot of unknowledgable answers given from guys that get there information from the shops who are selling the parts and labor to them. So im hoping i can still get advise from you guys here.
Also i plan on doing the head work, hone, decking and assemble myself at the shop i work at and plan on using OEM head gaskets and im going with the OEM balencer and ford racing oil pump gears unless informed otherwise
Thanks-


I did a similar build as you. Stock crank, manley h beams with arp 2000 bolts, kings high performance bearings, diamond stock bore -15cc pistons, frpp oil pump(gt500) and tss billet oil pump gears, fel-pro head gaskets. I did arp heads and mains as well. The $ was piece of mind and investment for me. Have not had to go into the motor since I built it in 2010 but if I do or even need to pull heads off etc, I wont have to buy one time use hardware ever again. I later installed an ati super damper and bought an arp crank bolt for that install as well. And when I did the flywheel/clutch I sprung for arp flywheel bolts as well. Again the better hardware that wont need replaced was worth it for me.
 
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Heaten m90

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Im 50/50 on turning this into a max effort build, if i buy the ARP hardware im buying a forged crank as well.
Has anyone ran the greddy profec electronic boost controller? I just purchased one and im looking for some insight.
Also if someone can explain why my 1000hp rated pistons had to be bubble wrapped for shipping that'd be great lol
 
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RED09GT

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I have the Greddy Profec Bspec 2 controller.
The tuning is in percentages rather than psi so it takes some testing and has a bit of a learning curve to get the boost pressures you want but once dialed in, it works great. Having the high and low boost feature should be great once my car is back together and has the internals to handle big power.

With it and the WOT box, I can build 4 lbs of boost on the line at 5300 rpms.

My build started as just a rod/piston swap but now has a kellogg crank, bullett racing turbo cams, lockouts, ported heads, bigger fuel lines, and meth/water. I'm hoping I haven't bit off more than I can chew.
 
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Heaten m90

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Thanks for the response RED im sure youll be happy when its all over! and man that fedex driver is a real peice of shit.
 

2003cobra22

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If heads ever come off I always recommend ARP studs in place of TTY, more equal clamping force and reusable. Id also get a forged crank over the cast piece, even though it might be enough for current goal it'll be at or real close to its limit and leaves no room for growth. Do it right the first time and never look back.
 

Wes06

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Forged cranks are always 8 bolt iirc
 

Heaten m90

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I thought the cast crank was pretty robust, like 800WHP if RPM is kept around 6.5?
 

roberts

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My motor has arp everything stock crank 9:8.1 compression. Turning 7k rpm!
Made 878 but I'm also a turbo car. So I don't have the pull on the crank like blower would.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Heaten m90

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My motor has arp everything stock crank 9:8.1 compression. Turning 7k rpm!
Made 878 but I'm also a turbo car. So I don't have the pull on the crank like

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks robert thats the best thing ive heard all day.
 

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